iseekool

...unless it's in a VL Majority of overheating issues are related to air-pockets in the system. It's not as easy as just emptying the coolant and re-filling - which I dare say majority of the population/mechanics do. It takes a few days to properly get rid of "all" the air in the system.

From my experience - it takes half a week to fully "burp" the system of air. 1 Drain the radiator. 2 Fill it up to the brim. 3 Fill up the over flow bottle to just over the max level marking. 4 Drive the car like normal - DO NOT give the engine a hard time - take it easy. 5 Let engine cool (I usually wait till next morning). 6 You will notice the coolant levels in the over flow reservoir drop quite considerably. 7 Open radiator cap - GENTLY SQUEEZE the lower radiator hose and then the top radiator hose - you will notice quite alot of bubbles coming out - the radiator level will then go lower - this is normal. 8 Fill radiator to the brim. 9 Fill up the over flow bottle to the max level marking. 10 Repeat steps 4 to 9 daily until the coolant level in radiator and overflow reservoir stop going lower (For me it took 4 days). TIP: Keep a bottle of fresh coolant in your boot for 1 week after changing your coolant - this is so that you can top up where ever you are.

Is that an actual function? Are you sure there is no danger to manifold or your passenger floor about to fall off hahahahahaha (Sorry to hijack the thread - I just never heard of such a thing....)

Not recommended - as the electronics would have different ratings - something may get destroyed. However if its strictly short term/emergency and you don't rev the car too hard - I cannot see any harm - I suppose its better to drive with different coils, than driving around with a mis-firing car... but that's just my theory anyways

Keep it above 3600rpm when driving it spirited

Are you running a stock ECU? Some aftermarket units/piggy back ECU will sometimes have he engine light constantly on. I guess first thing I'd do is ensure that the connectors are clean and firmly in place between the coil pack and the wiring loom. Plug and unplug the connector 2 to 3 times to "clean" the connection - sometimes there could be some sort of oxidation. Ensure coil packs are firmly screwed in place - but do not over tighten as you can damage the coils. Ensure your spark plaugs are platinum or iridium - easier to fire as opposed to copper - if you are running copper plugs re-gap them to 0.9mm. Hope that helps. Failing that you could have got a set of dodgy coilpacks.

I had a smilar problem not too long ago. My problem was with the front tyres being worn on the inside, the tyres also had scalloping - could have been caused by camber wear (my suspension is stock), stop/go traffic tends to wear front tyres faster. - Check the toe-in/toe-out. - Tie rods ends could have some play in them (worn out) - best replace them. - Worn out shocks - small bumps will tend to deflect wheels much more. - Worn suspension/steering bushes.

You have all the good bits from the GTT, Big brakes, std LSD and everything else that comes with the GTT minus the turbo.

I'm not sure if this will work.... Ensure all the fuses are at the correct ratings... you may have to check each fuse one at a time. Not sure if Nissan's use a "body control module" (like the Holden Commodore's), which control door locks etc... - It could possibly be fried from the over charging.... There could be another short in the system somewhere - Probably best bring it to an auto elec first rather than a mech, as this issue seems electrical.

Not worth the effort/cost - considering it being an n/a. Better get a an R34 manual coupe.... If possible a GT-V version or n/a supra manual

I'll be there - maybe a few mins. late - due to finishing work late....

Unfortunatelty the "maket" dictates the price. If you want to make more $$$ - separate the GT-R wheels. Since your car is a manual - I think you can also demand a little bit more. This is a good base for people looking to do de+t conversion as it has all the bits required. Good luck with it

I guess if they want some sort of 4 door rule "taxi", a good start would be a race prepped vk45de powered v35/v36 sedan

I read somewhere on SAU that the R34 series (excluding the R34 GT-R have) have different seats.

*waits* For vk45de powered skyline/gt-r

Spotted lots of skylines out and about in the city last night. A few of them were badly riced and poorly maintained - made me cry Some that stuck to mind was a super clean dark grey R32 gts-t with R33 GT-R wheels on st kilda road heading city bound - male asian driver plates "UBD-250". Wing-less purple R32 GT-R with R34 GT-R wheels parked on Russell St multi-level carpark - had SAU stickers Grey R35 GT-R plate number OH-*** (cannot remeber the last digits)

For stock mirors - The part that attaches to the body is different, as the coupe (2dr) is a frameless design, where-as the sedan (4dr) has a frame). But the mirror glass and shell is identical.

Put me down as a maybe. I should be driving past around 8ish as I finish work quite late - Will join you fellas if you're still there - If not, maybe next time - don't wait up Just on a side note... Isn't Harvey Norman open till 9PM - It is a Friday night????

A clean silver R33 on warrigul rd around 5.45PM - had very dark tints. I was in my bluebird.

I'm from the Northern subs too. A time and a place *please* - This is so that I can figure out if I can come along or not. If you are stuck for ideas of a meeting place in the north - I recommend Thomastown McDonalds on Dalton road - near the western ring road. Reason being it allows people from the east and west tag along too - if they so wish and it isn't too far north so the guys from Preston/Reservoir can also attend. But one thing to note is try not to organise any meets up that area after 9.30PM - as the hoons start coming out to play - especially on a Friday Just a suggestion as I organised a meet and mini cruise there a few months back.

Assuming you are running a stock setup. get the plugs from the Nissan dealership - platinum type. I got my coil packs from eBay brand new - Splitfire brand - Just ensure you are getting ones designed for R34 RB25de/t NEO

- Front fenders the same - Pretty much everything up to the A pillar. - Whole dash assembly the same. - Front seats the same - Front suspension, Rear suspension - the same (...but I've read somewhere - please don't quote me on this - stock front suspension on the sedan is slightly stiffer due to the extra weight when braking) - Tail lights - different - Boot - Different - Rear bar - Different. Eastbear have some nice coupe/GTR style bumpers and panels for the R34 4 door -> http://www.east-bear.co.jp/

I bought a set of Zeetex lately but 17" for my stock GTT wheels @ $135 per corner. I got no issues with them - but in saying that I don't really drive my car too hard. They are quiet, smooth, better acceleration, stop pretty well and seem to have improved my fuel economy. But I do notice it has some slight squirm under tighter corners - I'm guessing its due to its softer sidewalls - compared to my older tyres. I guess the tyre is designed as an "overall"/daily tyre as opposed to a true sports tyre. If your car is cruiser/daily and don't really push it - I think it is a good value option.

Spotted a silver r33 gts-t heading towards the city on plenty rd bundoora. I was in the R34 pulling out of the golf driving range.

Just hope the underground car park doesn't get flooded...