iseekool

I'm guessing he means the "looks" - both car look somewhat similar from far...

End of the day: You want to speed and be an idiot, maybe kill yourself - That's fine - 1 less idiot on the roads.... however think about what would happen if you run into someone else - he, she, they (could be a family) - would be killed from your (and your mate's)stupidity. The excuse of having "nobody" around is when accidents DO HAPPEN... IF you do come out of the accident alive I really hope this thread will haunt you forever. Save it for the track. I bet after you have read what I just typed you will be fuming, possibly try to "back peddal"/justify your actions.... No one here will tolerate such stupidity on the roads.

North Richmond.

That's just f*cked. Not being racist - just an un-fortunate observation.... Too many (not all) of these "darker" skinned people think they are "gangsters" and try to emulate what's going on in the USA. Very disappointing. Just boils my blood. If these people wanna play "gangster" the only solution is to treat them like ones... tie them up - smash all their knuckles with a hammer - that way they can no longer hold a gun, knife or have self pleasure.... Best part is they stay alive to see/think about what hey have done....

last night around 4.45am to 5am - came home from clubbing... a guys in a marshall battery van pulled up next to me, the passenger started yelling stuff (dunno what he said). He was eyeballing my car at the next set of lights - very odd - along albert st. They then turned off onto murray rd....

2.5k is really a small budget - The price of the car may end up being close to 4 to 5 k over time after replacing this and that If he can stretch the budget to 5k - he probably could get a better/newer car, especially with the distances he will cover. V6 VR/VS commodore or newer... - Parts are cheap - Many mechanics know how to work on them - therefore more choice of workshop/competitive pricing. - Most are auto and have A/C - Run on regular unleaded - Do not require expensive fluids/oils - Safer than smaller cars of the same era - I wouldn't bother having it on gas - LPG systems require more maintenance and add another layer of complexity... Your savings will be negated...

Just a thought - assuming his car was NOT drive-by-wire. 1. Try to lift the throttle from behind, if that fails... 2. Give the throttle, a fast hard jab to break the cruise control/throttle linkage.

I smell some attention seeking kid. Don't believe that his cruise got stuck... My "theory" - He probably got busted speeding or doing something illegal and to cover it up faking his cruise control screwing up.... as a bonus he would make the evening news, and how would you get whiplash from hard braking.... Sounds way too sus....

This morning around 8.30. Spotted an orange r33 with black coloured roof. Heading west bound on Toorak rd crossing Bourke road.

Hey all, I'll have to bail out on this one. Last minute thing at work came up.... Maybe next meet... Sorry. Mark

I'm assuming you are using the standard non-turbo brakes (You don't own a GT-V which is the same as a GT-T) Bendix branded: Front DB 1308 (same as Mitsubishi Triton ute, Nissan Maxima A32, A33) Rear DB 1144 (same as Nissan Maxima)

I smell a hint of fast and furious: toko drift Welcome aboard mate If your mustang is still on the building process please do share - It would be very different. We have a build up section ---> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pr...-Buil-f190.html

Since LPG has higher octane - to help offset the power loss you should up the compression or get a turbo. But you will not be saving any money on LPG (unless you do heaps of km on fwy/constant driving speeds) as you will need to burn more to get the same amount of energy as petrol for acceleration. Conversion costs and LPG maintenance also need to be factored in too.

Its for the genuine exhaust. Low throttle one of the exhausts close/restrict, but once you start getting the revs up it opens up. It mentions it on the R33 factory manual - the r34 factory manual does not mention it..... *someone please correct me if I'm wrong.*

White stagea near the Philip Morris ciggie plant. Plate number STARG8E (something like that - stargate fan I'm guessing????)

I have much respect for the 1jz and 2jz engines (both turbo and non-turbo). They put out amazing torque for their size, and somewhat a little more basic in design than the RBs.

Pretty good engine. Lots of torque over the range in comparison to the N/A RBs. Too bad it ain't a Nissan engine No replacement for displacement

Just wondering do you have a V-tec meter, just so that you know you have enough v-tec left yo Welcome aboard

I have no idea about the rb30 sump fitting or not. In terms of changing the gasket: Use clean rag with some de-greaser/cleaner to clean around the area where gasket sits. Put film of engine oil on the gasket (both sides) and bolt up the sump. Make sure you torque it to factory specs or elese you could buckle/distort the gasket if you over tighten. Hope that helps.

NEO can rev somewhat high. 7000RPM red line. It's just the VVT system on the RB was not designed for peak power at high RPMs like the Honda system. But as you said this can definately be changed with the right supporting mods, but not the best bang for buck. The best N/A engine in my opinion would have to be the VQ series of engines as they were designed from the ground up as N/A engines... of course there are the few turbo variants. I have no real idea on the price of these. you still get to have a "Nissan" engine too. Bang for buck definately the RB25DET hands down, due to turbo engines being fairly easy to mod. Obviously it will no longer be an N/A - Also depends on your racing restrictions if turbos are allowed or not.

The LS V8 is a pretty good revver once you put in the right cam (lumpy cam) - bottom end power will suffer, however it will still have more balls than an RB engine due to outright engine capacity. Just don't expect it to rev to 9000rpm Non-turbo RB25 neo is a pretty good motor - mine is pretty stock (high flow filter and exhaust) and I can definately say it has very good "engine response" (spins up quick) - power wise I'd rate it average (I'm in an R34 sedan @ just under 1400kg). Maybe in your Z it would be much better because of the weight difference. The idea of the variable valve system in the RB25 neo was to have better torque spread on the low end to mid range - Not sure how much it will help on the top end - however since you will be going cruising, having a little extra torque down low Isn't a bad thing.

Good point there. However weight/handling may be compromised.... Jez13: What about a VQ35DE, VQ35HR or VQ37VHR. Light, better balance (closer to the firewall) have lots of balls in stock form and lots of aftermarket support. Considering it's a "Z" car would be a very cool retro-fit.

White n/a r34 4 door series 2 with lip spoiler around 8 am this morning cruised side-by-side along albert st. Plate number WNA *** We both got lots of looks from all the other drivers I was in my white 4 door too

I'll will bolt up fine. Just make sure you have all the ancilliaries like ecu etc.. Don't forget you will need to engineer the whole car though bigger brakes fuel system. By the time you realise you would have spend heaps. Better trade up to a GT-T as you will have a better package to start with. Doing an engine swap on a GT-V is not a bad idea too but you have to factor in things like labour and the hassle of not having a car while the engine change is happening and getting it certifed and so forth.

For me a lightly worked RB25DE would do the trick for an old car like that. RB30 block would be great for torque - but not much of a high revver like the RB20,25,26. On the video link - Are those really carbies or is it EFI with ITBs (I have no idea). It all depends on you budget and time I guess.