iseekool

Docking station - Definately a top idea In regards to the sound card it can depend on the laptop. I find many of the HP branded laptops/tablets have pretty clear and low distortion sound - but I must stress not all. Might save you a few bucks and extra connections - just an idea.

"I like the tuna here".

Don't forget the memory card

If your on a budget - I wouldn't bother spending too much on getting much more power out of an N/A (unless you intend on going a de+t setup). A good exhaust and panel filter is as far as I would go for breathing mods. Best to focus on reliability, handling and braking so that you can make best use of what power you have. My recommendations are quite similar to what the other guys have said (no particular order): - Good tires that are inflated to correct levels - Good suspension. - Don't get tires that are too fat as this will cause un-needed drag - the 17" (225/45) GT-T wheels (or lighter) are optimal for handling without being overly wide or heavy. - Always use 98+ RON fuel - Possible brake upgrade to GT-T spec, anything bigger will actually rob you of performance (explained further down) - Use the best fluids/synthetic oils - High flow panel filter. - High flow cat. - Upgrade the exhaust. - Remote oil filter and oil cooler as well as transmission cooler - Non turbos rely on high revs which means things get hot.... - Every kilogram and friction counts so stay away from gimmicks such as: - Heavy audio equipment amps/subs etc. A good quality high powered replacement for the stock unit would suffice - the stock speakers sound surprisingly good once you have a decent head unit to drive them. - Heavy chrome wheels "chromies" more weight + increased rolling mass = more drag - Any wheels over 17" as your tires will get fatter = more drag = less performance. (I bet alot of people would dis-agree - fact of the matter if you have good tires traction is not going to be an issue) Remember the car is still a 2.5 non turbo. - Overly noisy/heavy canon mufflers - cop magnet, no performance gain and does not sound too good on an auto. - Overly large brakes are heavier. more weight + increased rolling mass = more drag

You don't need to bother with an inverter, as you will be running DC-to-DC. You can buy a universal laptop ciggie lighter adaptor on ebay for under 20 bucks, they work quite well, you can also hard wire into your car if your handy with a soldering iron and know which circuits to tap into

My neighbour brought out his imacculate white 4 door C210 skyline and he drove it around the block a few times. Loved the chrome bits, seemed to have a half cage and sounded tough too - car looked generally stock. He must have seen me working on my 'line out front. Might have to go up to him and ask about it - not sure if it is a 4 or a 6 cylinder Blast from the past

This morning around 6.30am spotted a very clean R32 GTR plates "SUSGTR" along Bourke road, Camberwell. Last night around 5PM - White R34 coupe with a flawless finish (factory fresh finish), it was at the BP Thomastown car wash. Had a chat to the guy. He is not part of SAU, it took him 2 years to source the car - not a single dent or scratch. Apparently he is trying to get into the auto detailing industry. Part of a carwash crew in the northern suburbs "Intrigue"

For a non-turbo R34 (I'd imagine for all other non-turbo R31, 32, 33 would be the same). You only need 93 RON (shown in the original owners manual and written on the fuel cap) - so 95 should be ok if you are on a budget or if 98 is not available. However... I did notice with 95 I still got pinging, some power flat spots in the lower rev range and the car tended to drink more. I've soley used 98 with no problems. You will still get very slight pinging every now and then on long uphills. I recommend spending the few extra dollars on fuel as opposed to thousands of dollars and inconvenience of engine damage. I wouldn't dare use 91 inless you are really stuck and have no other fuel available - Only use it for "limping" home/next servo that has premium.

I'd "imagine" the tacho part would be the same... speedo - I have no idea.

That's all the pics I have the other few I have are way too blurred...

Some pics...

Agreed.

I'm no expert in this... Just swap the tacho and speedo sections over... Just a thought.

My R34 sedan got a stock strut brace... And there are alot of R34s out there that has it stock.

Does this usually happen when braking? If so your rotors are on their way out. Best get a replacement rotors and while you are at it - get some new pads too. I had a similar problem. Also could be the road surface as some roads have small waves giving the impression of problems with the car, especialy if you have big wheels

Building a PC is the FUN part and save you some coin... However.... If you are not feeling confident - best let them build it, and if anything does goes wrong with the PC (hardware wise) you will have the "upper hand" in complaints. End of the day it's up to you

In 3rd gear lockup torque converter is not meant to engage.... Correct me if I'm wrong

Could be one of multiple issues: -"Sticky" variable intake manifold -Failing coilpacks. -Transmission starting to slip -Low octane fuel -Blocked fuel or air filter.

Saw a stockish black stagea yesterday arvo. Around 4PM - cruised down Warrigul Rd together and through balwyn. I gave a thumbs up and he waved back.

Black interior with dark red stitching and darkest legal tint FTW

Just wondering if anyone has installed a webcam in their car? I'm planning to install one facing forward (Front windshield) and the other facing backward (rear windshield). Anyone recommend any brands/models? I require the camersa to be fairly heat proof as they will be exposed to the sun on the dashboard and rear parcel shelf.

I ended up buying a USB GPS unit for my car PC from eBay. I too need to find software, the only one that seems to suit my needs is co-pilot live. http://www.travroute.com.au/index.php?opti...33&Itemid=1 Wondering if anyone out there knows any alternatives to co-pilot.

In-tank. You will need to access the fuel pump via the boot.

^ that's one crazy system you have there . If you don't mind me asking what would you need all that disk space for? You will be able to store lots of blueray "backups"

unRAID sounds pretty cool - i haven't used it myself, from what I have read it is probably best suited to lower end systems. I thought bluray over 100mbit would "just" scrape through. My current home 100mbit networks tops out at round 80mbit - I think it's pretty rare that anyone gets the full 100mbit. I think bluray is 72mbit if memory serves me right. Then again it would also depend on factors such as network bottlenecks - like switch speeds, network card quality and if there is any cable quality issues. Then again once there is any other network traffic + the bluray traffic the network will bog. I guess gbit lan is the way to go for some sort of future proofing.