Raysboostin

these have gotta go $1300

have u still got the engine block?? does it still have rods and crank with it??

wow a 7m in a 1200 id like to see that!! must be a neat fit!

location??

got in touch with him. he said his towbar is safe for 750kgs. any more than that is at ur own risk.

well thats definately different. good on them for breaking the mould. but i think i only would have done it if i was converting to LHD then u wouldnt kill clutch, brake, etc. EDIT: come to think of it, i remember hearing something about some1 in Aus or NZ that put a 7M GTE in a R32 GTR

Thanks antony, i'll call him this week

hey darrin, r the fibreglass guards flared out a bit more than std stagea guards?? it looks like it in the pics uve shown, i just wanna make sure. also when u talk about "with all brackets" what exactly r the brackets for??

this has to be winner for failure of the year! IMO i doubt tuning or a rev limiter could have caused such a massive failure. i agree with some of the earlier quotes. maybe it was dropped at some point. maybe it was a dud casting or the metal had some imperfections (which should have been picked up by quality control). HPI have there own forum now, maybe u could post on there and see what they say??? have u tried getting in touch with the authorised dealer?? (otomoto i think??) ive never even seen one of these KKR turbos so i know nothing of their quality. but, all the ppl with good things to say about them keep saying "for what they are". by saying that it doesnt inspire confidence in the product. IMO this makes me think that they know the turbos r of a lower quality, but r willing to sacrifice quality for a cheaper price. i guess its like the old saying goes "u get what u pay for.."

yeah im inclined to think that "the metals to thin" is a load of BS. if the stageas r so weak and flimsy why would they come factory fitted with roof racks. IMO, since they put roof racks on it they must think it can handle more than 5 people and a boot full of junk.

im not calling ur results into question, infact if u go to the track a bit ur setup is prob a really good way to go

im not talking anything highly technical. very much feelbased but it works like this. not far from said friends place is a road with a 100km/h speed limit with a sharp corner on it. it has one of those yellow speed signs say 40km/h on it. b4 swaybars the car struggled to make it round the corner at 40km/h. the tyres were losing grip with the road and the car would just about slide off the road. then the bars were fitted. 1 day later same corner, same time of day, same driver, same corner entry speed and nothing changed with the car but the bars. the car could now take the corner easily at 80km/h very flat and no hint lost grip. i say prob more as he didnt wanna push it past that cos there wasnt enough room on the outside of the corner to stop the car from that speed should he lose control. we were kinda hoping for a big gain, as the rear bar they sent (from memory)was nearly twice as heavy as the stock rear one(i think it was hollow). we weighed them on the digital scales at his work out of curiousity, cant remember the weights it was a while ago. as i said its not scientific but IMO it gets the point across.it is very much based on feel tho

so in the end the shafts and diff centre were the only thing replaced from standard??

u must come from the rotor way of thinking. im rather apposed to this approach. the idea of " if it wont make torque just keep revving it" doesn't work for me. the higher u rev an engine and the longer u maintain those revs causes incredible amounts of engine wear (especially with all the problems RBs have with oil control at high revs). i prefer the V8 approach, where u make bulk torque low in the rev range saving lots of undue stress on the engine. if i was building a track car i would rev it hard, but were talking street cars. i prefer the engine in my street cars to last as long as possible. but its horses for courses i guess. i hardly think its reinventing the wheel, more a case of refining the wheel. if u didnt keep trying to improve on what u had, we would all still be riding around in cars made of logs on big wheels made out of stone (like in the flintstones). im not goin to sit here and debate which is better with any one and im not tryin to convert any1. i'm merely saying there might be a better way than just "reving the c*nt out of it" as u so carefully put it.

well sounds like these guys may be holding on to it just a bit tight. is urs one of those ones from "max"??

im a little confused. exactly what parts of ur rear end did u replace with gtr?? u said u used stagea housing does that mean these "longer axles" are the same as std stagea axels?? will they bolt straight in to any stagea or do i need a bunch of gtr stuff??

so did u ever get this engine finished?? how did the project go??

u would prob find the stroker would have made more torque alot earlier.

i got in touch with the 2 only places in brisvegas that make towbars. both of them said u'd b crazy to tow more than 1200kg max with a stagea. apparently the thickness of the steal used to build the car isnt strong enough to handle that kind of stress. which was surprising as some of u guys said u had towed car trailers with urs. have any of u noticed any damage, stress fractures, elongation of mounting holes or anything of that nature??

u sir r a visionary! what a clever idea. hows ur head spacer coming along. im really interested in the idea of a 3.1litre rb26.

its not that simple the plate has the vehicle model stamped on it specifically to stop ppl like urself doing exactly that. im with u on this 1 rooster.

well if its not engineer approved and legal, u better hope and pray ur never involved in an accident when towing (at fault or not). cos ur insurance company will probably just laugh at u. ive never heard of an insurance company taking someones word, that "the towbar is rated to XXXXkg" without some form of documentation. besides that, in the very unlikely event it does fail and writes off ur car, trailer and whatever ur carrying, u wont have a leg to stand on cos u have no proof it was rated to tow what ur pulling. unless he is nice enough to give a legally binding document stating its maximum safe working load (document would be an engineer certificate).

did u guys ever get ur towbars load rated?? if they r 2000kgs i'll have one. if not has anyone found some1 that will make a 2000kg load rated (and fully approved) towbar?

ive used whiteline swaybars on my 2 previous cars and helped fit a few others for mates and every time the whiteline bars were difficult to put in. (they never fitted anywhere near as good as stock). but in every case they always made a huge difference to body roll. biggest gain was on my mates supercharged lexus sc400 (factory airbag suspension). cornering performance at least doubled with the whiteline bars front and rear, prob more

can i see a pic of the boost gauge??