NZM.031

hey guys, ive got a few parts left over from my other parts sale... so while im at my current work, there is free freight on everything.. delivered to your home or workplace via courier. stock RB20 turbo... run standard boost only, excellent condition - $150.00 RB20 clutch hub and fan - unmolested, excellent condition - $50.00 RB20 j-pipe to throttle body - comes with bov, - $20.00 RB20 alternator - good nick, has been pulled down and inspected, bearings good, brushes good, contacts cleaned - $40.00 RB20 coilpacks - good condition, $40.00 R32 gtst bonnet - gunmetal grey, excellent condition - $100.00 r32 gtst bootlid - gunmetal grey, with or without spoiler - $100.00 stock RB20 clutch - reasonably worn but good for reco or to throw in to get you out of trouble - $30.00 R32 gtst/S13 silvia RHF lower control arm - good cond, happy ball joint - $30.00 R32 gtst/S13 silvia RHF castor rod - good condition - $20.00 GTR/GTS4 alloy engine mounts - $30.00 R32 gtst stock shocks and springs, good condition, no leaks, no sponge, no noise - $150.00 what ive listed is what im selling, if i havent listed it, im not selling it, so please dont ask. pics on request. located in east maitland/thornton/newcastle. cheers Linton

haha... barron is right... if i have to travel anymore than 20kms to work... i quit or move...

jimmy... i hate you.... you are an arse clown.... i saw you driving at honey suckle the other day and your car was complete porn!!! looks tough as nails, perfect height, perfect rims... damn you!! hahahaha.

omg thats classic... it makes you wonder what the story is behind it... and why were the pics taken.. is it of pride and syaing look what ive done?? or is it 5 mates around your place for a sunday bbq and drinks and decided to have some fun with a stick welder, your blown stock turbo thats been lying around and plumbing offcuts from your bathroom reno, hooking in to the mrs car while shes inside thinking your idiots.

and doing track days with your current car, you know what to upgrade for next time.. each time you go out, will be better than last time... and then you can pick up something else to improve... when you go the dedicated track car route though... well... the options are endless... but the wallet isnt... in all honesty im only going that way because i have the tools, and the time, and my own garage... and i love the build part of it... but because its not a streeter means im going to alot of effort to do things right.. make things light.. etc etc.. which is possibly all unneccessary and a waste of time but in your head... you think, your not going to go to all this effort and keep the standard pedals.. or this.. or that.. so costs go up... time goes up.. and results may not equal the time and money spent.. im rewiring the whole car purely for the novelty of it.. having the toggle switches etc.. for what ill use it for, there is no need to go to that extent... but i like doing it.

wow... i just wet myself.... they are some nice rims. i love my Panasport G7's.. circa early 90's, not made anymore... difficult to find in decent sizes and offsets, they went through a stage a few months ago where you could barely give them away... all of a sudden they are old school and worth a bit... i found 2 sets to mix and match and am always on the lookout for more.

done and dusted... thanks Nismo Man, you should be a super hero.

oh good.. can i have your old race car then??

as in just a toggle switch like on most of the aftermarket ignition switch panel... or a battery master/isolator switch that also switches the engine circuit?? im confused now... so this is what i had thought it was.. Battery > battery isolator switch > kill switch > junction box > ignition start circuit ??? i always thought the kill switch is just like the "ON" position on your normal ignition barrel, has to be on to start then flick that switch off and the whole thing shuts down??

super epic thread revival champ..

nah not worth the hassle... the s13/r31 rack is the pick of the bunch from what ive read, which is what you should have. i got an s14 rack to replace my r32 rack and they were identical.. just different tierods. if your rack is really bad, get it reco'd and it will be like brand new, but check the tierod ends for play first, you may just need to replace them.. if you want heavier steering, get hicas, or get a smaller steering wheel.. the play could also be because of the steering column bush.

thanks everyone... and phunky... id completly missed that with a sealed battery you can lay it flat.. my thoughts were purely on normal style ones that have to be upright.. thanks a tonne for posting that pic.. thanks ben, i will be seeing the battery shop tomorrow to work out the size and battery needed... it doesnt need to do anything other than start the car really, could probably use a torch battery.. haha. ill make up the mounting box and start the wiring.. when the time comes to corner weight it, if its better in the boot then i will move it there... it will just be a matter of running longer cables to the isolator switch. thanks again. Linton

thanks zebra.. i have seen one of the pull cables.. thats handy to know.. i had read about an ae86 that had the battery under the dash... i thought it might be good, out of the way, all cables can be short and neat and hidden away. no pics of it though.. with everything gone from inside the dash, there is tonnes of room in there.

hey guys, just wondering where you'z have put your batteries.. i have been thinking of it putting one under the empty dash on top of the tranny tunnel.., it will only be the bare minimum yay by yay big, room isnt an issue, the only issue thats stopping me is if its allowed there by CAMS, scrutineers etc.. what does it need in the way of isolator switches?? one inside and one outside?? or just one thats easily accessible in the way of an accident?? whats the go there?? last thing i want is to make up a neat as bracket, tidy as wiring, and then get turned away from the track because its not allowed.. im thinking something like this.. dont want a fully enclosed box, as if its under the dash... removing it will be an issue if its properly secured. cheers Linton

panspeed rx7 is all kinds of super freak. the kind you dont take home to mumma.

haha.. and it will be all over ACA and Today Tonight as high powered, illegally modifed and unroadworthy.

hahaha... i find that somewhat amusing.. i mean, it would be sad if someone hit him.. that would be no good... and it would be a shame if he was just driving normal and made a human error and caused the accident.. but showing off!! that just makes it ok to poke fun at him. unfortunatly the above comment is probably true.. he (or daddy) can afford another one, therefore he probably will still have no concept of "f#$king up".. he should have to take it home, sit in in the driveway and think about what he did.. and then part it out like the rest of us shmucks that "f#%k up" to pay off the loan and have to drive a shitter around.

i think the 180sx will go down as one of the greatest looking cars ever... so simple and clean... the shape will never go out of fashion.

mwhahaha... i didnt know there was a drift section at super lap... that means next year im going to have to bring even more tyres.. or just scab everyones used grip tyres!

i wouldnt be locking that one in, eddie. dont hi octane have some big dollar driveshafts?? or is the CV's thats the issue?? the japs have to be on to something surely... they have a few 1000hp gtr's getting around now.. is there a way that you can turn the front traction up and down with steering angle?? doesnt the hicas work of a steering wheel sensor?? what do the wrc cars use for front CV's?? i mean they are the the most hardcore 4wd thrashers on the planet.. admittedly they dont have 700hp and they weigh less with less traction... but still... gotta be some ideas there.

yes ill ship the bonnet... sorry radiator sold.

no sorry, sold already. no... no i dont sorry.

those screws are not screws... they are the spring retainers... the idea is that you turn them 180 and a pin will sit in its position,if you turn it another 180, the pin will slip through the gap and the you can remove the shoes. now to adjust the handbrake, there will be one rubber grommet on the outside of the drum face... and 2 inline with each other in closer to the studs.. you want the one outer one, move it to down the bottom, and look in with a torch to see the gear.. its only a little gear.. you need to move this with a little screw driver.. adj it up till the hub will not move, then back it off 3-5 clicks... or until you can just move the hub with one hand with some drag on it.. when you put the wheel on, it will spin reasonably freely as theres some weight and momentum.. do not touch the cable adjustment at the handbrake lever... this is only for stretched or slack cables..

fark me... its got more response then of them fancy nitro RC cars... well done mate, this car is something truly special.

lookin good now..