NZM.031

ok guys... im going away until thursday on a well deserved holiday to the mountains of bellingen.. ill have my laptop and phone with me, but im not sure how good reception will be, i will reply to all requests upon my return.. to those that have transferred money into my account already, your items will be ready to be sent by express post and will be posted by my workmate next week upon my instruction. so if i dont reply.. do not fret, i will be back.

did you buy roys hks intercooler?? dammnit...

seriously though... that is kinda cool.. it does a reasonably good job and it does sound cool.. given that noone else can hear it outside the car. i might get one for my work ute.. just to make the drive to work a bit more interesting. haha

real v8, now git in ma belll-eeeyyy!!

actually.... needs more low and +20mm bolt ons front and rear!

well there are lots of reasons why... they are lighter and thinner they allow more engine bay room for intercooler piping, thicker radiator, etc they can be fitted in front or behind the radiator, or you can have a v-mount arrangment they do not rob the engine of hp they do not affect the centrifugal force of the engine (if you have modified the blades to clear piping, it be putting uneven strain on the water pump shaft) they will not get thrown off when your waterpump shaft snaps (see above), totalling your radiator, denting your bonnet, smashing the fan blades they only come on when needed they can be running while your car is off and in the pits cooling down they look neater they can be made one with the radiator.. removal is as easy as disconnecting the wires and removing the whole get up. the wiring is not difficult at all they give you one extra gizzmo to play with if you get a fan controller you think that installing relays and wiring is a pain... i think constantly undoing the engine fan to get the radiator and shroud out, water pump, timing cover etc. is a massive pain in the knuckles and forearms.. not to mention rounding off the 10mm nuts that have to be done up tight so the fan doesnt fly off, or bending the 6mm studs by levering against them to undo the tight 10mm nuts. to say that thermo fans do not work as effective as the engine fan is a bit ridiculous.. 70% of the cars these days use thermofans.. all fwds do, wrxs, evos, commodores, falcons, lots of euro cars do etc.. they work just as good at cooling as any engine fan.. without the power robbing. i have a very good complete fan with good clutch pm me if you want it.. i will be going the thermo route for the reasons above. cheers Linton

are you sure the knuckles are alloy??

id like to add... the stock items that im keeping are for rego purposes only... so they dont need to be in good nick... as my interior is in perfect condition and dash parts and consoles getting redone with suede and carbon... i will consider exhange for your crappy items + cash for the majority of stuff.. door trims, seats, roof trim, etc. im also selling the gearbox as ive decided to go with an RB25 box... its in good nick, done 113000 kms. $500 ish?? is that reasonable?? i can organise freight for the bigger stuff, but it will cost you accordingly.. unless you have a freight account.

i do, and they are... but id need a reasonably good offer plus your old ones to consider it. cheers Linton

im sorry..... say what now?? outside?? rain??? incase?? dude... this thing would live in my loungeroom.. back room at least.. garage if necessary.. never outside.. and never when it even looks like it might maybe come over cloudy. that is meant to be a compliment btw... i absolutly love your car.

hey guys.. so we all know that stock RB26 cams are a drop in item for an RB20.. whether they are an improvement is debatable.. but do big aftermarket RB26 cams drop in?? what if you had good head work and solid lifters and an RB26 inlet manifold?? quite often you'll see big cams in the for sale section etc. for reasonable prices.. even to buy new ones, there is a massive selection of sizes from lots of companies. rb20 items are few and rare... even if you buy new ones. im just wondering, if you were thinking of getting big RB20 cams, and you could get a pair of RB26 sticks for half the price.. youd have some coin left to get some solid lifters etc. am i close... or way off?? cheers Linton

hawt dude.... very hawt!!! i love it.

pics of guards as requested. they will come without brackets, indicators, and GT badges.

i do, its in perfect condition, no bubbles or anything. im willing to sell it but, it must be a decent cash offer + your dash pad.. im covering it in suede so the condition doesnt worry me. aslong as its in ok nick.

sure thing boss... ill get some when i get home and post them up first thing tomorrow morning. im over my d/l limit at home so it will have to wait till i get to work at 8am. they have been hanging on the wall since removal, so they are still fresh and straight.

i did the same thing to a mate... being considerably drunk many a year ago... i did the smart thing and held both ends of the seat belt and buckle so i could buckle up in an effiecient manner.... the dumb thing was, i was still holding my beer in the hand that was trying to master the actual seat belt. little beknowns to me at the time, my beer was bottoms up while i was trying to buckle up.. at this point you may think, poor guy, drunk idiot just spilt 600mls of beer all over his back seat... but spare a thought for me... for i lost a good 600ml of corona that night.. and it cost more than his car. the metho thing works though.

what about a track car with numberplates though?? worth doing then??

my mate has had bc coilovers on his gc8 rex for 3 years now... no dramas... and it wears semi slicks and sees regular thrashing round corners.

maybe.... its perfect by the way. throw me an offer that i cannot refuse

changed.... never... growing old is mandatory... growing up, however, is optional.

wooooooooooooooooo hoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!! this is going to look hot!

From: East Maitland, NSW near newcastle.

i want... but im XS... free bump though!

heeeelllllllooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo there!!! i got a heap of shit off the car thats never going to be going back on.. ive put rough prices down, but im negotiable on them, pm me an offer and ill pretty much accept it. postage on the smaller stuff no probs, just add $15.00 to the price. pipes and panels pick up only unless your really desperate here we go - Engine - exhaust manifold - $30 inlet manifold top and bottom - $50 throttle body - $30 fuel rail and injectors - $20 radiator - $50 (excellent condition, straight fins etc. has been in storage so needs a flush) p/s pump - $20 alternator - $30 cross over pipe with standard bov - $30 intake pipe to turbo - $20 RB20 turbo - $150 - good condition, done 113000kms, always run standard boost since in country stock intercooler, bracket, duct, and some piping - $40 RB26 alloy engine mounts - $30 (was going to see if i could modify to fit 2wd but no dice, may aswell just make new ones) p/s steering rack - $40 complete, tie rod end to tie rod end. p/s lines - $10 a/c condensor - $30 a/c fan - $20 and old skool HKS bov with pipe, plastic one, green insert, makes a cool 2 stage krschch-krisssch noise, no leaks, $50 S14 SR20DET crossmember - $70, good condition, straight bolt up to r32, thought about putting an SR20 in at one stage. Interior climate control unit - $50 heater box - $30 a/c evaporator - $30 blower unit - $30 boot trim and carpet - $30 (has neat cut outs for rear strut brace) Body Bonnet - $70, excellent condition, gun metal grey Bootlid with wang - $60 as above. Front Guards - $100 each, both have a little scratching from careless people working over them over time.. but both good and straight. RH tension rod - $25 RH R32 control arm - $40 i also have the complete hicas system front to back and all the a/c pipes and condensor im always on here during the day, but not at night, so pm me or sms 0431646160, you can call if you like, but probably i either wont pick up if i dont know the number, or ill be away from the phone and wont hear it. cheers Linton.

lines dont drive without engines.