NZM.031

and having owned an r31 with the rb30e... while it wasnt twin cam... it had head work and a large cam so it had a few more rpms up top... i also thought it would be a great idea to chuck in some 4.11 diff gears the out of a pintara instead of the 3.7s in the skyline. now correct me if im wrong... but dont all our skylines have 4.11 gears??? which work great with the lesser capacity engines.. giving them a bit more acceleration/torque through the gears alone.. after i put the 4.11s in... i was constantly changing gears... 1st gear was non existent, it would reach redline within a second after launching... 2nd gear was over and all i was doing was 80km.. it was harsh on the driveline aswell as the engine. i changed the gears straight away and enjoyed revving it out with some time in between shifts.

and how often can you actually use 553kw atw on the street.. all the skylines ive been are capable of losing your licence in 2nd gear.. including my stock as rb20, and it even scrables for traction.. so why is reving to 12000 rpm ridiculous?? look at the R32 GTR paul from hunter thomas auto owns.. it made 553kw at the wheels using twins and standard capacity... and it was waaaay to much for a street/circuit car so he mucked around with the turbos and found the perfect mix of torque and power.. now its making 400kw but its all usable. the bathurst gtr's didnt need 3L either. and they are only 450kw monsters. turbos are the replacment for displacment... thats why we love our jap cars. we have been troncing falcodores for over 20 years... why now do we need to go to 3L all of a sudden. power isnt everything.. the funnest cars on the road are the ones you have to ring the neck out of to get anything, like little NA engines.

no worries... and as for the shoes... ive been in the game for 7 years now... except for drum brakes... ive never replaced a set of handbrake shoes.. and an r34... a highly doubt you will be replacing the shoes in your life of the car.

i have not been in an rb30/26 car... quite frankly im not that keen to. a high powered rb30 just doesnt hold that same appeal to me as a high powered or even mild rb26.. its working with what the car came with from factory.. making the best of what youve got. engine transplants are just like plastic surgery... your car may go good.. but everyone knows that its not what it was born with. i hold rb30 powered gtr's at the same level as VL drag cars.. its just not a gtr anymore. and to say that japs are scared of big things.. and thats why they dont use them... maybe its because they just dont need to. why dont we all just put twin turbo LS2s in our skylines.

are you guys gonna marry??

RB26 all the way. keep it original. gtr's come with the 26.. keep it that way.

get a standard ecu, send it down to dr drift and he'll do a map for you

i had a similar problem, whats happening is your shoes are slightly in contact with the hub... which is normal.. but your cable is so tight that your just pulling them on harder instead of them grabbing... heres how you fix it. take off your rear wheels.. you will see a rubber grommet on each disc. remove the grommet, move the hole to the bottom and look in with a torch... you'll see a gear type thing. move it with a screwdriver locking up the brakes completly, then back it off until you can start to move the disc by hand (bout 3 clicks), then back it off another 2 clicks. your handbrake at the back is now properly adjusted, so its all up to the cable now adjust your cable at the hand brake so you only have a bit of movement in it before it actually engages. a tight cable will hold the shoes against the hub slightly, when you go to pull the brake, your just pulling the shoes on harder... they dont have that sudden grab that locks the wheels.. so if the shoes are adjusted properly at the back, they will have a bit of clearance, and with the cable adjusted with a bit of slack.. your handbrake should lock with very little effort. cheers Linton

old boy is doing a drb gt40... has been for nearly 15 years.. the only thing original from when it left drb is the body... he has completly redesigned the chassis several times and has many hand made billet parts.. dad is a do it once, do it right kinda guy.. hence why the build has taken soo long, hes in no rush... however this is where it bit him in the rear. he cant use the engine he was planning to, a nicely worked 5L with trickflow heads, individual throttle bodies, etc. etc. but due to the age of the engine, he cant get it complied to meet the new adr's so he has to go for the 5.4L... so far the whole show has cost him close to $100000 and it only just touched the ground last year.. that is with all the work done by him, the engine building, the machining of parts, the fabrication of the chassis.. only handful of people have even seen it, let alone done some work on it.... its on the ground.. but no paint, no wiring, now no engine. he has to modify the chassis to fit the engine, modify the one off bellhousing to fit the engine, make a new flywheel to fit the engine... and so on and so forth.. if you were to pay someone to do all the calculations and time and effort setting up the suspension angles etc. like he has, it would cost a motza. the susprog 3d software itself was freaking expensive. so heres what i have to say... get an engine, put it in, get your lights wired up, get the car working as a car asap... roll it over the pits, unpainted, with stockies and falcon brakes etc. if you have to... get your compliance plate... then strip it down and do what you want to do for the next 10 years... once you have the plate, it doesnt matter what you do... it will always be a 2009 model and have to comply with 2009 adr's... who knows what stupid laws they will bring in in the next few years. speaking of engines... i know a guy with a viper motor if you want it... as for the remark of it being a gtst with a gtr badge.. its a bit different... given that there are only a handful of genuine gt40's in the world and all are priced well over a million if they are for sale at all, and you cant buy a fwd v6 version of it now can you.... most of the replicas ive seen are still worthy of appreciation, alot of attention to detail and getting it as close to the old style as possible... they may not be the real deal, but they still have a mid mount V8, 395mm rear tyres, and are only 40" high... replica or not... they are still worthy of respect as a sports car, they havent changed... they arent a VW with a dodgy fibreglass shell placed on top. that said... is this not just a copy of fords attempt to bring back the cobra?? which is a late model car that can be bought?? not a 1960's racing legend that hasnt been made for 40 years and is near impossible to attain. also, theres a mob in the central coast the old boy has been talking to about getting around the security system of the falcon management.. they also make custom wiring harnesses to suit... you get it complied with the stock computer then go get a motec.. i can get the number and pm you if you need it. good luck with it mate. Linton

and a 31.... of some description

finally some pics of my 32 as a stocker and now... nisskid.... fair enough, was just wondering.

needs phat rims and cable ties... its too "pretty"

if your not sure about anything, first thing you should do is take it to a good workshop, with a dyno.. get them to do a FULL service and dyno run. anyone can tell you that theyve had this done and that done... but if you get it done yourself... you will be sure. most japanese ecus run too rich for aussie fuel.. engine idle could be many things... like a leaking bov, dodgy air flow meter, etc. keep caroozing this site, and do searchs first before posting a topic asking a simple question.. most topics have already been covered many times. as for information on the car or the engine... what is it you'd like to know?? the RB20 is the underdog of the RB engines... people dump on it before giving it a chance, but they are capable of being thrashed over and over and handling more power than they have any right to. the r32 is getting on a bit now, so most of the suspension bushes etc are due to be replaced.. cheers Linton

that r32 front end like suprisingly normal... took me a few looks to pick it up.

im assuming that the bleeder has a radiator cap on top.. what has come in the kit?? most of them have a t piece that plumbs into a coolant line, or the coolant line gets replaced by the lines and bleeder tank.. just like a catch can arrangement but with coolant instead of blowby.

the lower control arms... they are on the front... and they are the arms that go from the underside of the hub, to the crossmember. bout 50cm long and 7cm wide.. castor rod bolts into them and only castor rod.. they are the most lowest arm on the front. cheers Linton

thats correct.

in skylines, the radiator cap is lower than other parts of the cooling system, hey do this so the front of the car can be lower.. that is why you need to bleed the air out of the bleeder in the inlet manifold.. the breather tank moves the cap higher than everything else.. so if you mount it on the strut tower, with the second cap above the engine, it now becomes the highest point and all the air in the system will gather there, allowing you to easily bleed the air from the system by simply running the engine and filling it up.. rb's if not bled properly will gather air in the cylinder head as its higher than the radiator and the cyl head temps will get high and cause damage also the pressure of the cooling system will be low and it will do bugger all.. so its important to bleed them. breather tanks are better value for money than catch cans if you ask me. cheers Linton

i say no. i owned a 33 a while back... awesome car, good power, reasonably new at the time... but always wanted a 32, so 4 years later, i now have a 32 gtst. i bought it completly stock.. thinking it would be unthrashed, and just hav general wear and tear. so far all ive done is fix the bloody thing.. upgrading bits if possible. if i hadnt been prepared for it, and didnt know how good its going to be when it all comes together, then i would have sold it by now... ive had it for 4 months, and every week there has been something going wrong.. money id saved for a performance part, has gone to the incredibly high price importers charge for a small part.. its my daily driver so i cant have it off the road, and the importer is 2 min up the road. in hindsight, i probs should have saved up and bought a gtr like ive always wanted, but i can only just afford the gtst. sooo.. say you buy your NA 32 with your savings, or a loan... spend your money on keeping it going... for what?? it wont be worth anything in a few years when you can get a turbo... and you wont be happy with it because it will always be an atmo 32.. trust me, the years go fast when your saving for something. i moved out of home 3 years ago... yet it feels like yesterday, my dog is 2 years old, yet it feels like yesterday that we got him.. my g/f and i have been together for 8 years... yet it doesnt seem anywhere near that long. if i could go back to my first car... id get an 1985 cressida, a 1990 cressida, or a ke70. i had a 31 and it was just soo much work to keep the thing as parts were few an far between or expensive. cressidas share alot of parts as chasers/supras and ke70 with ae71 or ae86. any car you buy, always expect it to break.. in most cases, its better to buy a shitter off someone whos honest and tells you all the problems they've had, and problems its got.. you'll have to spend money either way... its better to know about it first. then you can plan for it. cheers Linton

how are the front lower control arms holmes?? any good or did they get damaged??

gday mate, just after lh lower control arm.. any chance of sending it to me??

make em fit

very nice mate.. surely you can keep it and buy a house aswell... you wont get what its worth so you may aswell hang on to it... these days you can get a 95% loan anyway. and who is the fast fours photographer... they always have good photos.

are there any suspension mods to support the massive increase in wheel track?? or is it going to be all dish and all motor??

and r32 gtr rears dont fit because they use a U shaped bracket on the bottom whereas the gtst uses an eye... this can be changed if you really want.. but there are plenty of coilovers around for both models.