NZM.031

which gear is it in?? any gear?? could be diff. if its in a gear, then it will be either worn bearings or worn gears.

i remember when i got my 33.....it was unreal. i didnt get any sleep, was up all night looking at the photos of it. everything was going sweet on pick up day....except old bud left NOOOOOOOOO fuel in it....he then told me it pings a little on optimax, but not on synergy or ultimate, on the weekend of the big NSW premium fuel shortage....had to drive like a granny for 20kms through sydney stopping at each servo to see if they had premium, ended up putting in 3 bottles of octane boost and topping up with normal unleaded until we got to the twin caltexs....really put a dampner on the day. so basically i had to drive like a granny for nearly 2 hours after picking it up. after that though....well....yeh, tyres didnt last long. congrats bro, you made the right choice. you wont regret it. cheers Linton

and dave....if you like the orignal lid better, you can have the one off my car, i like the new one better. cheers Linton

hey guys, due to the different lid design, i have to buy some extra bits, which incurs a price rise to you guys....sorry, but its either a price rise for parts, or a price rise for labour. me personally, would rather, a price rise for parts. hehehe sorry bout dat. airboxes will now be $130, sorry but it has to be done. ive got a heap im making, will be ready to send out by the end of the week. first 5 ppl to PM me with their intercooler piping setup and address, get my account details!!! yaaaay. cheers Linton

go the alloy pinapples. urethane ones require new bushes to be fitted for best handling. alloy ones squash everything up and make it so it cant move. i have the alloy ones, they made a huge difference, i set them up for drift and could instantly feel the difference when sliding....the back end hangs out alot longer and easier. cheers Linton

dude....why you disgrace nismo rims and r34 gtr wing by putting them on a VW??? surely one of those 10ft tall straight gt wings and flat chromies wouldve been more appropriate.

awww cmon....he's loving it, look at him go! or would you prefer macguyver??? alls fun and games till someone losses an eye. cheers Linton

my car sits in the shed all week, so i warm it up fully before i drive it, ill start it after getting dressed, then ill come back in, brush my teeth and do whatever, good 5-10min idling in shed, then backing out of the shed, i have to get out and close the door, then i have to get out and open and close the front gate, then my driveway is about 400m of dirt, so its usually idling all the way down there, dont go over 10kms, so theres a good 5 min, then its another 700m to the end of the laneway, i drive down there in 2nd gear bout 2000rpm. then its straight onto an 80km p/hr main road. so i cruise along there for 2km....by that stage, its fully warmed up. the work truck.....pfft....i barely let the glow plugs heat up before i start it and drive off....good thing the lines not a daily driver. cheers Linton

How the **** he end up there?? did he hit the gutter and flip it or what? messed up pretty badly. poor ol red top! cheers Linton

it depends on what you are doing. my car is a drifter, i have a HKS ssqv plumbed back in. it doesnt make much noise, just flutters. i used to have to to atmosphere, and i did notice a difference in on-off-on throttle response. im going to get new i/c piping made and will be removing the BOV all together as the car is either parked up, or sitting on rev limiter, very rarely driven. i used to think they were cool and served a big purpose....but im over it now. ive never seen or heard of a turbo being damaged from reversion. but an aftermarket one is better than most stock ones as they leak after a while, except for GTR bovs, they are exceptional. cheers Linton

i understand what you are saying, that is just what we used to do when putting projector beams into 31s. there'd be a way to do it, what if you ran your lights off constant power, so whenever the car is running, the lights are on. thats one way to skin the drift cat. cheers Linton

wazz....the fuel pump doesnt move around....i put a fuel pump in a mates 180, used cable ties....been over a year, hasnt moved at all....there is nothing wrong with zip ties. hose clamps can be over tightened and either damage the pump or the clamp, resulting in a useless clamp. why does everyone see zip ties as being dodgy??? why not get some aircraft grade T-Bolt hose clamps.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...&cat=500&page=1 paris hilton....pfft. yeh right.

it doesnt have a boost leak?? my 33 wouldnt rev past 5000 on any boost, took me ages to find it, i alot of parts like you have, only to find i had a split intercooler hose, real prick to see. boost would show correctly on the guage, it didnt show i was losing any, thats why i didnt think it was a leak... usually its just a simple little problem. cheers Linton

if its too far advanced it will ping its head off, if its too retarded it will missfire and run like shit. taped up coils dont stop them from arcing out, id be looking at these and getting a set of splitfires... 11.2 isnt too bad, for the plugs to ignite that much fuel, the coilpacks will be under alot of load to produce such a spark....they then build up so much power, that it finds its way out to the head, instead of to the plug. this could also be why the a/f is really rich. cheers Linton

if it was the rings, it would be pumping out startup, once the oil starts to heat up and flow, and the engine heats up, the rings seal themselves. if its valve stem seals, then on idle at traffic lights or somewhere, it would be puffing out smoke, but then clear up as you drive off, unless you give it a big tromp. it sounds to me like a turbo problem. you wont necessarily have no power and smoke galore. the turbo will still spool if its got an oil leak. backfiring could be due to alot of things. your plugs could be badly fouled up, but usually they arent bad enough to backfire that badly. if your cam belt has slipped, it would be backfiring off every fire as all cylinders are out, it wouldnt be just once or twice. you o2 sensor could be covered in carbon and not working properly, this will bring the cat light on aswell. it senses how much unburnt oxygen coming out the exhaust and adj. the fuel map to clear this up and burn all the oxygen for max performance. if its not working properly and dumping in alot of fuel, then it will backfire. probs a good idea to get it over to the boys at JMS and let them have a look/drive... its hard for me to help you when i cant see for myself what the car is doing. good luck with it, cheers Linton

most of that sounds right dude, there is nothing wrong with cable ties....they are designed to hold things and they do it well. as for the wiring....aslong as the positive is touching nothing but the postive terminal, it will be fine without the boot, the boot wouldve been there just to stop it coming in contact with anything. as for the sock....its purpose is to stop the pump sucking up any crap from the bottom of the tank....its probably a good idea to find a way to put it on or to think of something else..... even if you cut the adaptor off the sock and cable tie it directly to the inlet of the pump.. cheers Linton

im not sure whether the lights normal use a relay to change between the lights, or whether its just done through the switch. so you may have to add or remove a relay. if its changed through the switch, which it sounds like, then all you have to do is put a relay in the 2 circuits so that when the high beam is turned on, the relay closes and keeps the low beam on aswell. anyone feel free to correct me as im not quite sure. cheers Linton

thanks gruntin. im on holidays for 2 weeks now, ive got some in the making, just gotta do the lids and then i can get some out, make some money, buy more stuff, make some for different cars, sell some more, make some more money, quit my job, make heaps more, sell heaps more, move out to bigger premises....hahah the list goes on....help me help you. cheers Linton

im in for the cruise....always keen for a strap. if i have my new look by then, i may enter, but ive always been about driving, not showing. count me in anyways cheers Linton

on the newer RB25s and RB26s they have adopted variable cam timing, this allows the engine to run a bigger cam profile from stock. the ecu controls the timing of the cams by solenoids that advance or retard the cams at different rpms or loads and can open or close the valves earlier or later..with no cam timing, you will have massive amounts of overlap and wasted air and fuel at idle and low rpm...variable can retard the cam to improve response at this rpm....not to be confused with VTEC which hydraulically locks different cam lobes in at different rpm. the VCAM system is new from HKS which allows control over the cam timing so you can tune the cam timing from inside the cab. similar to the apexi V-AFC for Vtec hondas, except much more advanced....and expensive. HKS have also gotten into electronically controlled turbos. these bad boys have been around for a little while, and are on the new turbo diesel hiluxs. they have a motor, that controls vanes in the turbine housing at low rpm or load, these vanes are closed, making a smaller turbine housing. as the rpm or loads increase, the motor opens the vanes, making the exhaust housing larger. HKS have adapted this to some of their turbos...incredible stuff. cheers Linton

200kw. thats when mine died....also constant abuse. i clutch kick the car alot, which is just added stress on the poor thing, not to mention spinning 255/18s, poor old clutch. im getting a new one next week, 3 tonne clamping pressure... with a button type friction plate. (insert manly Tim Allen grunt here) cheers Linton

mine is 20% 3M scotch tint, its guaranteed for life. its fairly dark, noone can see in, i wouldnt want it any darker. sure it looks good, but any darker, its unpractical. at night, i cant see shit out the windows. i cant see out the back window, i dont know whether im looking at the wing or behind it, i have to drive with the windows down at night because its too unsafe. its just so dark at night. your choice......but im just letting you know....darkness is not your friend. cheers Linton

that sig. vid is awesome hahaha. if you've got the time, fix the rust properly first....no good making it look all schweet if you've gut rusted out guards. do this first. sand it back, if its not to bad, put some rust converter on it, prime it and respray it.

my safc reads the herald....and whatever car mags are in the car at the time. the occasianal dolly or cleo if the g/f leaves them in there....dunno whay it reads when im not in there. ill have a look at its reading next time i drive it.