NZM.031

yeh mate, its not gonna happen, no way possible except with extensive modification, which wont be worth it. find somejap import 31 struts... they have the same setup as an s13, which allows hubs to be swapped and brake conversions done. but you'd have to get your rear axles changed to 5 stud. cheers Linton

hmmm....very nice, but i dont think the is200 is that kind of car, i think its better suited to cruising...which it does very nicely.... where i work is the horse capital of australia, Scone, there are millionares every where, and alot of lexus's getting around, however from these ppl ive heard bad reviews. nothing actually wrong woth the car, just that if you have enough money to buy a lexus, you dont buy a lexus. its a luxury car to those that dont have money, but to those that can afford one, it doesnt compare to the european cars for luxury and cruising. if you want a performance car, keep the GTR, you will regret it, if you want a cruiser, look for a BMW or Mercedes. cheers Linton

sorry to hijack thread....but can i ask why you want a badly damaged one that is still rego'd??? just curious. cheers Linton

my god....i hate australian made cars, and the drivers for their mentallity. my dad is an all ford man, hates turbos and rotors because it doesnt take any brains to make them quick. he says their is no satisfaction in a 3kw gain on a turbo'd car. that said, he loves the xr6t...wierd??? how is it that.... a gtst....can scrabble all over the road, while the xr6t just walks away....they are both rwd and powerful. and why are they comparing their car to a gtr...wouldnt the gtst's be more of a match... i dont want to sound like those guys though, skylines have their faults and there are better sports cars.....but ford drivers are idiots. cheers Linton

the hicas bar bolts on to the diff cradle, not the chassis, the wheels shouldnt wobble as they have massive semi trailing arms holding the wheel in place.

so when you line the cams up on TDC the crank is reading 15 degrees.,.....are you serious??? if thats the case, you are waaaaaaaaaaaay out in your cam timing, when the crank is on TDC, so should the cams... even with adj. cam gears, 1 tooth is 4 - 6 degrees. to get the engine to run correctly, an absurd amount of ignition timing is required. set the crank to TDC, it will have 5 marks in 5 degree increments, the TDC will be a different mark, it will be longer, or a different colour. then set the cams to TDC, and put the timing back to std. i hope you havent done any damage to the engine. cheers Linton

just look for a 32 GTR with Work Meisters. they are about as close as you'll get... i havent seen simmons on a 32 GTR before. ive seen them on a 33, but not a 32. honestly i dont see the point in paying the money for the rims. not compared to lightweight japanese rims. my dad has some on his gt40....custom made 15"x13" they are heavier then my Work 18" x 9". cheers Linton

you own a stagea rs4....at 16?? how the hell can you afford one of those??? or does mummy and daddy pay for it??

hey guys, i was looking at some hicas lock bars for my 33 and was wondering, what would happen if i removed every component to do with the hicas?? and didnt put a hicas lock bar in?? just want something to play with over the weekend. cheers Linton

how big are the rims?? i have stretched 235s over a 9" rim, and i run 45psi. feels nice and tight. bit rough, but so are the coilovers, all depends on what you feel comfortable with and what your tyre wear/depth of wallet is. i used to have 255s, which were a bit big for the rim, handling has improved immensly with the 235s....i pumped the 255s up to 55psi for a quick run and they still didnt feel solid. cheers Linton

i drive my 33 once a week. only on weekends, never driven on weekdays, no need to. my starter motor is not working properly, the overrun clutch isnt disengaging and keeps the bendix in the ring gear for a few seconds after it starts. only started doing it when i stopped driving it though the week.. i also let it fully warm up before i drive it anywhere, and i dont leave a full tank of fuel in it while it sits there. cheers Linton

hahaha yeh, definatly.... should get some commodore boys to be on the other team....hahahahaha id love to nail them a few times. cheers Linton

this sunday....hmmm.....its long weekend....and cops have been drilling the hunter valley of late.... i had fun last weekend....i think ill stay away from town this weekend, acutally, i think the line will stay in the shed all weekend, i might pull something off it so it cant drive! good thought, but im not gonna take the risk....maybe the weekend after. cheers Linton

hey mate, im interested in the 2 18" tyres. pm sent cheers Linton

yeh, there is one for the stock piping....just has an extra hole and requires a little more work to install. hopefully have them done when the bender turns up... i have been cutting them out though, ready for bending, if it doesnt come soon, ill make some up using the old way, it still works fine, just takes a little more time. cheers Linton

shaun, if the car had an intake leak, it would run rich as buggery. the afm would detect the air coming in, put in the fuel required for that amount of air, then the air disappears...leaving you with fuel, will run badly. an a/m turbo will indeed change the a/f ratios, if its putting in too much air and the std components cant handle it, thats why the turbo is usually done last, too many ppl buy a turbo and put it on and drive away....then they are up for a full rebuild, when all they needed was a fuel pump, injectors and an ecu. a safc will fix it up no probs, if tuning is too difficult, get an apexi pen type turbo timer, it shows a/f ratios....dont live by this reading as it can be fairly rough, but it will tell you whether you are way out. you can then tune the safc to what the turbo timer says...if the readings are between 12-14 under boost, the car should be fine, over 14.7 is running lean. just a note, the car at times will run lean, such as on idle, and when you back off the accelerator, its supposed to do this, when you get a a/f gauge, it makes you worry when you see it the lean side off the clock. cheers Linton

there is alot of satisfaction in paying for your car yourself and modding it yourself. you value it more. i lose respect for ppl who have loads of work done but none of that was done themselves, or paid for themselves.... i have more respect for an NA silvia with a pod if the owner saved up and paid for it and put the pod on himself.

ill take it, been looking for a cheap wheel to put in the ute. pm'd you with address...COD os fine cheers Linton

i know you had a silvia before hand, but your first car goes on what you drive on your p's. you should have stayed in school then

stock radiators and coolers are black, because black reacts quicker to temp changes than any other colour. if you have a black car and a white car sitting in the sun, the black one will heat up before the white one, but when you take them both for a drive, and the temp changes with the moving air....the black one will cool down quicker. true story. also... if you have the standard mild steel ones, paint them black, then wrap them neatly with heat tape. looks tough and works... if you wanna spend $$ then get some aluminum piping made up and get it polished, aluminium dissipates heat at twice the rate of mild steel. cheers Linton

114.3mm is the pcd.....same as silvias and R31s. not sure about offset. cheers Linton

Ionos.....is it???

nice ride....but a 33gtst for a first car?? are you serious?? my atmo 31 got me in enough trouble and scared me plenty of times, and it was cheap enough that i could damage it without too much worry aslong as noone got hurt. why do people grow up so fast these days?? one other thing....stay in school....you're literacy is terrible. cheers Linton

the just a shield one.

lwells, dont get quite what you mean.. you mean a full bolt in replacment airbox?? as in the ARC type. then no. it is an enclosed box/shield for your pod filter, so you dont get defected for it. and also a bit of bling in the engine bay. cheers Linton