Travo

Any light or grill damage?Factory front bar from nissan + reo bar from nissan + fit and paint is going to be over $1k. If you get it patched up you probably wont hit the $800 mark so aim for new replacement parts. Just take the car to a couple of panel and paint shops, they will be more than happy enough to give you a quote.

Cool Story:Personally I have had them stuff up too. It still worked unless u put your foot down and then would read so incorrectly it caused a boost cut, extremely wide range of idles depending on weather or car would be lacking in power for no apparent reason and lurch! Purchased a second hand unit from here.. guess what.. just as faulty. Purchased a unit from JPC, problem solved and never returned. Fix: 1 - Check your wiring for the AFM is not shorting out or is damaged between your ecu and afm. Run a direct temporary wire (if your ok with wiring) to test this. 2 - Try an AFM with a guarantee that it works!

Shame about the fuel pressure test, I still think it is a poor earth with the FPCM (fuel pressure control module). Especially if the looms have been butchered. Solder/twist on a wire from the fuel pump earth to the body of the car and let me know what happens so i can sleep easier

hey guys, have you tried re earthing out the fuel pump? If a gtr is anything like a s13 (sorry if that insults someone ) then the ecu likes to vary the fuel pump voltage via the earth when the engine is in different states. With a bad fuel pump earth, the car will start and idle but once it warms up (gets off cold idle) it will idle very poorly and eventually stall, especially if you give it accelerator. If the fuel pump doesn't work like that in a 32gtr then ignore me otherwise this seriously takes 10mins to do and will eliminate that as a problem. Cheers!

holy crap lol... wouldnt have wanted that to happen while you were cruising down the freeway It's good insurance is doing it for you, should have a nice fresh interior when they are done. Dash, steering wheel, indicator/wiper stalks, ignition barrel, steering column covers and seat just to spot the obvious. Then depending on what the repairer says it could be possible new gauge cluster if heat damaged and the wiring, maybe a new loom or alot of soldering..

Hi guys, I know this has been covered somewhere but i could not find it in the forums.. Does anyone have a link or could tell me what needs to be done for this? Cheers.

Sorry to revive this thread but I have this exact same problem with the idling in gear at 2000rpm (and on cold start) but normal idle when neutral and stationary. It has only recently developed and I have not done any new mods recently to the car to cause it. I have a consult cable and I have no error codes. I reset self learn and the problem went away for 1 trip and then came back on next startup. Was this problem ever fixed? Car: R33 GTST RB25DET

what Paul said, Yep, go to auto sparky and he can test alternator and battery for you.

as MrKotter said.. Wrapping will cause your mani/pipes to become brittle. The wrap will keep the heat in and your mani/pipes will run hotter. This WILL lead to cracking if you have low quality parts and is only truly needed for race applications.

4 years in a skyline and Ive only been pulled over twice by the cops and no yellow stickers. First time, cause I was driving a little enthusiastically in front of them... my bad. Second time, after a booze bus i got pulled to the side and given a bit of grief about my wheels been to wide but i was let go anyway.

Pretty low km's, in storage since import (basically) and sounds pretty well looked after with a decent mod list. Sounds amazing but I would hold onto it, as people said above, with dead turbos/no rego/being in albany, $12k. Get turbos and rego and easy another $10k will add to the price.

Im fairly sure from an import yard R33 S2's are going for $14k to $16k pending km's Couple of yards.. http://www.dcimports.com.au/ http://www.autoworx.com.au/site/

Give it an air leak test. I had a few bad air leaks around the fmic. I was getting 320km - 350km to a tank just putting around with the odd boot. After fixing these leaks I get about 400km to a tank and obviously it drives alot better too.

I was tossing up between 3000gt, supra and skyline before i opted for a skyline. The 3000gt is a really nice car but you can't do many mods to it without spending much money. You can't boost it because the stock turbos are almost already at peak boost. So you have to buy bigger turbos (and everything else to match!) but I'm certian i read somewhere that only takes you a little way because the engine needs forging. As said before, there is no space in the engine bay to work with either which sucks for DIY fun. Because i wanted a car i could basically go to kmart and get performance parts for, i got a skyline, If you just want a really nice car that you dont want to change to much from stock (performance wise) go a 3000gt. They aren't everywhere and they have great performance from stock. By the way, is the nice one in kingsley the blue one with a full kit? that one does look really nice