buzzboy

Hi guys Im looking at installing a Battery Isolation switch into my r33. The car gets driven about once every 2 weeks and the battery is typically dead by that time. I suspect the alarm is darning the power amongst other things. My hope is the isolation switch will keep the battery from discharging completely in that time frame. Currently have an optima d34 installed - ========Optima D34 Details============== Open Circuit Voltage (fully charged): Internal Resistance (fully charged): Capacity: Reserve Capacity: Power: CCA (BCI 0°F): 750 amps MCA (BCI 32°F): 870 amps ======================================= I have been looking at the isolation switch from Jaycar - http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SF2247 The Idea would be to have the switch just after the positive terminal connection on the battery and then resume the connection on the other end - a bridge if you will . Just wanted to confirm I'm on the right track and Jaycar unit will be up to the task load wise. Also anyone who has installed an isolation switch of some type and has some photos please add - still working out mounting points

Thanks for the reply Daleo Still dont fully understand and feel maybe a bit of a terminology issue going on . My understanding is the rear suspension has 3 arms - Traction arm (1) Camber arm (2) and Lower control arm (3) - please see picture attached for more details(picture 1). Im not sure if im getting the traction arm and the radius arm mixed up - can someone confirm or post a picture of the radius arm???maybe 4 arms are in the rear suspension??? below is a picture of what we have done - Picture 2 from what i can tell from my suspension specialist he wants it more like - picture 3 - images sourced from http://www.skylinesa...camber-kit-r33/ my version of above - Picture 4 If anyone can advised it would be excellent - thanks

Hi guys Bit very confused right now . i have just recently installed a Bilsten kit into my r33 with 1 front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits. During installation we ran into an issue with the rear camber kits - whiteline plus W62544. We got some advice from a very reliable source who advised to that there are 2 arms involved per side, the upper control arm (90 degrees to the hub) and the traction rod (45 degrees to the hub). The bushes go in the upper control arm itself and the traction rod itself, at the inner pivot point- the 2 arms each side should maintain their relative lengths to avoid bump steer being introduced by the changes in dynamic angles. Installed as advised. Now that everything was installed i went to take my car to a very very reliable and well known suspension specialist who has worked on many of the top skylines - who advised the rear camber kit was installed wrong and from what i could gather ,he expected both the inner and outer bushes on upper control arm. Question is what is the correct installation of two W62544 kits ? Just a bit of idea - no sure if the the suspension specialist is getting mixed up with the general whiteline KCA347 kit that contains 4 bushes per kit - so a total of 8 bushes for the 2 kits.The Whiteline W62544 only comes with 2 tube\bushes per kit - so a total of 4 tubes\bushes Any help would be excellent guys - its doing my head in

It's not totally messed up - we took the car for a 3k drive. The only bad thing we noticed was on a hard corner the one rears tyre would scrub a little bit on the tyre edge/wall. Heigh has been set to 355 mm front and 345 mm rear

Hey guys Finished installing my new suspention and now need an alignment . I have 2 rear camber kits and 1 front cambrr kit and a castor kit that all need to be adjusted correctly . Was looking at taking the car to centerline but that 35k away . Not sure if that kinda distance would kill my ad08 semi slicks. The other choice is a local kmart tyre and auto but I'm kinda avoiding that one. So tge question is can I get away with driving 35k with a bad alignment ?

Hi all I have decided to change my suspention over from a JIC coilover kit to a Bilstein and spring combo . My only problem is what springs to use - Eibach or Kings . The spring rates are about the same the only BIG differnace is that the Kings are liner at the front and progressive at the rear . The Eibach springs are liner all round . I like the concpet of the progressive springs for ride comfort but at the same time a little uneasy by the induced body roll of the top soft springs until enough pressure is put on the spring and the hard spring is hit . Going into a corner you never know what your going to get - the soft or the hard . also the car is Street only would love hear of peoples view or experiences with either of the two springs thanks

HI all Got my car back today with a new 400R front bar painted and fitted . I purchased a set of GTR indicators and holders from http://www.kudosmotorsports and have been installed . The only issue is the plugs dont match - The plug from the old S2 fog light and indicators don't match the plug for the new 400r\GTR indicators. Just wanted to know if someone could explain how to connect the new indicators up or point me to an how to doc.

with what one mate - the 7056HD?

How long have you been running it at 240? Do you give the clutch a hard time?what's type of setup do you have?

Hi guys I have am EXEDY heavy duty Clutch NSK-7056HD in my r33 gtst - just the HD not a button or Cushion. Just wanted to know how much power I can run with out any slip . Also would adding a stronger pressure plate help hold more power and if so what change would I see in the clutch pedal and engagement . My power goal is 230rkw

what kind of output would you get from the billet BB SS with the stock compressor housing?and at what kind of boost

will the billet BB SS fit into a stock R33 housing or at least with the stock compressor housing?

i know the bar needs a bit of work- sanding, primer and painting . the Bar is bare as bare . I think they guys said its just a "white gel coat". looks like it just came out the mold

Hey guys my mate wants to use my old R33 Stock Suspension in his r33 ( hates his coilovers) . they have been sitting in the shed for a good 6 years now. Will they be any good still ? thanks guys

Hey guys Just got a quote back from a shop to: Cut and shape Fit Paint - stock white Price - 1300 There is an item on the brake down called FRONT B/B - 300 . I have no idea what that is for so I will need to ask the guy about that Any way is 1300 a decent price to fit and spray a aftermarket fiberglass front bar for an r33???? I was expecting 600 - 800

Hi all when i got my car it already had an alarm system in it - Boomerang Alarm. i have no more details expect its a "Boomerang" . the thing is the remote is like a small mobile phone and is starting to fall apart. I only use 2 features on the remote - unlock and remote engine (turn the turbo timer\engine off before its static set time). I was wondering if i could get a non direct replacement for it and just have it programmed to match . wouldn't mind something like the flick key remotes all the new cars have.

haha sorry yes mm ... maybe 1cm adjusting fitting???

Hi all i have noticed that my throttle cable has an unusual amount of slack - car is an r33 rb25det. I can easily pull the cable up with my finger a good 5m before the throttle changes at all - is this normal ? or is my cable stretched and need replacing

im running an rb25det ECU with some type of eprom in it that can be tuned using nistune and an emulator... should i chuck it and go the z32 path . have all the issues with the z32 been fixed yet such as tps?

Hi all I have an old eprom nistune rb25det ecu laying around from before my engine build. I am now looking at having my car retuned again but not sure if you use the old eprom nistune ecu or go with a z32 nistune. I have herd that the eprom way had some issues … car currently has a stock ECU

My overall goal is response – with that in mind how much earlier would an EBC bring 12psi on

Hi all i was just wondering why most people use a boost controller (typically a T piece) over a preset Actuator i would think a Actuator is a lot more stable over a boost controller. The only befit I can see in having a boost controller is the ability to change boost in cabin. Is there any benefit of running a set Actuator over a boost controller on a stock r33 turbo?

any more updates?

I would love to get a hold of the some RE-01R or RE-11s - any one know were i can get some??????