No.96

The headlights are not in the $1000.00 but they are for sale, I will investigate the clips tonight.

No worries $450.00

Blackwood - South Australia

Photo of front end

G'Day I am parting out my track 32 gtr Complete front end, bonnet, guards, front bar, lip and reo. It is off a track car so has bonnet pin holes a few small dents in the guards and a slot cut in the front bar. Still looks tough $1,000.00 Big exhaust $80.00 Front pipe $80.00 Crs Dumps $280.00 Cusco gear has been on the car for 5 lap of Malalla Cusco Front sway bay $200.00 Cusco front negative camber upper arms -5mm $250.00 Cusco adjustable bar that goes between the castor rod mounts $100.00 Cusco rear sway bar $200.00 Not cusco front strut brace $80.00 Front drive shafts reconed at OG CV joints (no play) $90.00 each R34 GTR turbos $350.00 6 Point cams approved with paperwork bolt in cage with side intrusion bars - made by Nick from Buddy Parts $1,800.00

I have bought an s14 and now will transfer as much as I can onto that, brakes, wheels, seats, rear end. The rest will be parted out, I will relist leftovers on car parts for sale, If you are interested in anything PM or Ring. Cheers

Those wheels have gone.

The gearbox is good, it was rebuilt by Wheelworx with new syncro's $700.00. Ring for more info

Here's some footage from Mallala, I am chasing an R35 on my warm up lap. I'm open to offers. If your interested in any of the stuff PM or Ring 0404 073 346 Cheers Michael

Still in the Shed. I would consider parting out if everything sold. Seats and Harness - $950.00 Brakes $1,850.00 Coilovers $950.00 Cusco Suspension - $1,950.00 Cage $1,850.00 Gearbox $500.00 Wheels and Tyres $950.00 Rolling car on stock suspension (minus all the above stuff I don't have stock wheels or coilovers) with everything to get going $3,000.00 Don't reply to this post as it is now in the wrong section PM me if you are interested in any of the above.

G'Day, It's time to clear out the shed, I have too many projects and not enough room, so it's time for the GTR to go. I have removed the engine and gearbox for inspection and I will hang on to the engine. The car was bought into the country by Ichbahn Auto's as a track car so therefore can not be registered, I have the import papers. The car was scruteneered for a CAMS logbook which it passed but I never finished the process - ( Need to send the paperwork into Cams with photos and pay $80.00). I spent a few years working on this and got down to some reasonable times at Mallala (1:17:49) with standard power 225awkw. The time was done before fitting the suspension and project mu brake pads. The body is OK, no rust, it had a smash in the passengers side A pillar in Japan which was professional fixed but it has wrinkled the passengers floorpan. The paint on the wing and the front and rear bars is starting to show its age. It presents pretty well for a race car. I am after $9,000.00 Wheels. 18 x 9 Lenso D1r's with Michelin Slicks Front Brakes R34 GTR Brembos with Project Mu Pads ( 5 laps old) Braided Lines DBA 5000 series slotted Rotors Rear Brakes R32 GTR Calipers with QFM Pads Braided Lines DBA 4000 Series slotted Rotors Front Suspension (5 laps old) BC Coilovers (8kg springs) Cusco negative camber arms Cusco Castor Rods Cusco Sway Bar Rear Suspension (5 laps old) BC Coilovers (6kg Springs) Cusco Upper arms Cusco Sway Bar Hicass Lock Bar with all hicass plumbing removed Cams approved 6 point bolt in roll cage made by buddy parts (a work of art). Velo drivers seat with harness Window Net R32 gtr passenger seat with harness Relocated battery with external and internal isolator Tow hooks 2-4 wheel drive switch Old school Oil temp, pressure, water temp and boost gauges with senders. The car will come with everything you need to get it going minus the engine and gearbox. eg radiator, exhaust, battery etc. If it goes for the full dollars I will thow in the standard suspension and some spares. Inspections welcome, I can get it to a transport depot for interstate buyers if you pay for the car trailer. Thanks for looking.

These finish tonight, they are in perfect condition with glass and motors http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110639004786&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110639005264&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

Has he got 300K ? http://www.teamctsdrift.com/cts_4sale.html

What time?

I've just finished doing this. Sprint Auto have metal battery trays that you put in the bottom of the battery box for $15.00. The cable is only $7.50 / Metre. I used spiral wrap around the cable to just it extra protection.

Some people say he's God, all we know he's called The "Fred Gibson". Ahhh Cigarette Money

So would have I, now I have to live all my motorsport dreams through him. I suppose it could have been worse for him, I could have been into Stamp Collecting.

Here's the shed on Christmas Morning. I hung a shed key on the Christmas Tree and when all the presents were gone I pointed it out to my 8 year old son and played "hotter colder" with him til he found it. I've now upgraded to an Arrow AX9 too. Here's the boy at Monarto Go Kart Track Here me at Mallala I've now added some cusco goodness to keep it a bit flatter.

Thanks fellows, After reading your responses I thought I'd re read the cams requirements regarding the driver activated switch. Each automobile of the 2nd and 3rd Category shall be equipped with a battery isolation (master) switch which isolates the battery and stops the engine. It shall be capable of being operated by the driver in his normal seated position. There must be a second switch, or a remote means of operating the main switch, from the vicinity of the base of the A pillar on the driver’s side or, for an automobile with no A pillar, in a comparable position. This external device shall be clearly marked by a symbol showing a red spark in a white-edged blue triangle of minimum edge length 150mm. I thought the driver seated switch was the igition (key) and you had a main isolator (Master Switch)located near the battery with a cable to operate that mounted near the A pillar. Does this mean to comply 100% you have to run the main battery cable into the cabin to a master switch near the driver? Any thoughts?

G'Day, I need to put in an external isolation switch in my gtr. I have a few questions. The switch needs to kill the main power and turn the engine off. I assume this means putting a switch in the positive main battery lead and the wire that goes to the aternator? The switch needs to be close to the A pillar on the drivers side. Has anyone got any photos or descriptions of setup they have used? Thanks Michael

Nothing to do with the Thread. But, this photo is taken on Ferraris test track - Fiorano. The wife and I jumped the fence in 1998 and watched Luca Badoer shake down the F1 car on the Wednesday before the Imola GP. We were hiding behind the barrier at the end of the straight in the photo. Ahh the memories, thanks for listening. PS Go with a GTR and upgrade the oiling systems.

G'Day, Don't know if this has been posted before. www.skylinenationals.com/ The Winfield and GIO GTR's will be there.

No longer for sale.

If the rims go, for sure. These are good lookin' rims and a good offset for a 33 gtr

I'll swap for 33 GTR rims + cash with tyres or straight swap for rims only