JonnoHR31

Yeah it's .82. $400 for the housing and actuator, bracket, spacer etc. $500 with dump to suit although posting a dump would be difficult.

$500 with dump to suit standard manifold

I have an internal gate .82 T3 housing if you're interested? Got a dump to suit too.

Location? I have a internal gate rear housing, spacer plate and everything else needed to fit one onto a standard manifold except the turbo core and compressor housing itself, which can be bought easily.

After a 3" cat. Got a yellowed 33 here that needs one for the pits, prefer one that hasn't been bashed or anything like that as it needs to help quieten things down a bit as well. Text 0416 914 448 Thanks

32 on the side of the freeway northbound just before vincent street this evening, passenger was doing a piss in the bush while the driver was limiter bashing in neutral and shooting flames, your so hardcore!

This screams TPS issues to me, that sort of behavior is exactly what a PFC will do if revs rise whilst it's in idle mode (TPS voltage below .5v or whatever the cutoff is). If you really want to figure out what's causing it then figure out exactly what voltage your PFC needs to get out of idle mode, adjust the TPS to slightly below that and make sure the voltage rises linearly with the throttle. The PFC ignores the ignition map whilst in closed loop idle but it definitely uses the main fuel map. If you have AFR's jumping all over the place then make sure the cells around idle are all fairly similar values and that there aren't any weird compensations in any of the settings causing it. I highly doubt you have a dodgy PFC, it's almost certainly something else causing your issues, you may well have similar problems with the Vipec.

1x1.5mm actually flows slightly more than 2x1mm

The delay and missing spikes is because of the way datalogit communicates with the power fc, it's pretty slow and not everything gets through, especially if you have the hand controller plugged in whilst logging. The power FC itself responds much quicker, it wouldn't be able to run the engine properly if it didn't.

Not without datalogit.....

Not really, sure the oils warmer but it's just been pumped around the engine, so there will still be oil draining from everywhere. If you drain it cold then all the oil that is ever going to drain is already sitting in the sump ready to drop. You gain nothing by doing it straight after a drive and probably end up draining less oil, not to mention the added worry of burning yourself. Take it back and get a refund, if they crack the shits tell them they recommended you the wrong oil and demand your money back or an exchange. Something around 5w/40 is good as said. Number 1 rule of owning a modified car is never listen to the opinion of anyone at an auto parts store, especially when it comes to oil and spark plugs!

It'll work but if you ever get a leak for whatever reason it'll affect fuel pressure and therefore fuel ratios. Best to leave something so crucial alone and use one of the many other points available, the standard boost gauge nipple is in the perfect spot and is the perfect size too, why wouldn't you use it?

Read the thread! It cannot possibly be made any clearer. If you still can't figure it out take it to someone who can

V2.100 here and it's not there, I assume it comes up under settings 4 in later versions?

Getting in on the rod selling bandwagon. I've got a set of Nitto RB30 rods, build a 3L and buy mine!