JonnoHR31

better off with old fuel. octane booster just fouls your plugs real quick, even 1 bottle is enough to screw them sometimes

did they do any machining? was it the original cap from that engine installed on the correct side? if so lack of oil is the only reason for that to happen, but to get that bad it must have been getting no oil whatsoever. what does the oil feed look like?

not that hard to come by, i lost my old link that had every manual/pinout/diagram etc you could ever want but 30 seconds on google found this. http://www.skyline.se/dokument/

Coles motor oil is a major competitor right?

jesus christ thats a nice looking power curve. good result

yep remove it all completely

easiest way would be to make a new mark on the balancer 180 degrees from the standard mark

Depends which model, all the older ones were gt3582s with 1.06 IW housings but iirc the newer models (or atleast some of them) are gt3576s.

my 86 skyline frequently sits around for months at a time without any fuel problems, knock never increases at all even after sitting for 3 months. but then again your tank was made by holden....

So do you want 280rwkw or 400rwkw? Theres a big difference when it comes to setup....

Kyle from 6boost usually reccomends larger gates for his manifolds (60mm for most seups) due to the design of the collector. 38mm is fine for most setups, the only time it'll become a problem is when trying to run really low boost with a largish turbo

Yep, in goes to the cooler piper and out goes to the actuator. The source for the ebc can go anywhere that sees boost, if you have a spare bung on the intake manifold just use that, otherwise you'll need to cut a hose and use the T. The hose for the standard boost sensor would be my pick but you can use any except the FPR hose, dont touch that. If the turbos still off the car then a quick flush cant hurt, run some water through the water lines and pour some oil through the oil lines, doesnt have to be new oil, just clean.

anyone done any sort of testing or anything on the new penrite range? the new 10 tenths (replaces sin) claims to be full synthetic with pao and esther, i think its a class IV/V mix. if it does everything it claims it should be a fair bit better than the old sin.

sorry that was a typo, meant to read:

yer it'll make the power easy but you'll have much less midrange and less area under the curve than you would with a turbo to suit your goals. sure you'll get the number on a bit of paper your after but it'll be slower overall and less fun to drive than a smaller turbo'd rb20 making the same peak power.

yer as far as i know myne works fine, havent actually run it on the dyno with it plugged and unplugged but i havent noticed a lack of midrange at all. from memory i drilled a 1.5mm hole through the plug then another 1.5mm through the top. and block feeds are 2 x 1.6mm with a standard 25 pump

not a very good turbo choice for 250-280rwkw. a highflow, hypergear turbo or a gt3071 will give you much better overall performance

how exactly did you do the internal mod? what size holes did you drill and exactly where did you drill them etc, how have you tested the solenoid? unless theres somehow not enough pressure it should work fine.

even with the throttle shut you'll still lose pressure through the idle air and possibly even the throttle body itself depending on the stopper screw and condition etc.

if you wanna use normal leads you need to have a battery there that can hold atleast a small charge then let it charge for 30 seconds or so before trying to start. also if your leads are struggling you can try putting the positive jumper onto the left post (looking from the front) of the starter motor and the negative onto a good earth on the motor (i use the front intake manifold nut where the earth cable bolts on) to help things out a little.

motor might have stopped in a position where both the inlet valves and the exhuast valves on 1 cylinder are slightly open. or the inlet valves are open and its slowly leaking through the rings.

neo is r34 rb20 and rb25 only, the 26 didnt change internally from 33 to 34. but to answer your question, yes you can swap the heads

may sound silly but have you got the xmember around the right way? the lower sump section should sit infront of the xmember, unless its a funky one like the 200ZRs in which case you need a rear humped sump.

use whatever suits the grex plate, if it slips on and bolts up the standard 25 fitting should fit, if it screws on you need a rb30 fitting

yep vlt orientation is completely different to rb20/25. mixxing manifolds and turbos means a custom dump, not worth it when you can get a stock turbo to suit for ~$300 in good condition rotating the exhaust housing will never change which way the dump faces....