JonnoHR31

are you talking about a shorter or longer diff ratio? a shorter diff ratio will make it come on boost at a higher rpm in the same gear, but you'll be doing less speed when it comes on boost. a longer diff ratio will bring it on boost at lower rpm but higher speed a ratio that'll give you more in low revs will make the car slower overall, in general

how much boost are you running?

i have a 3076 and had the car tuned today, on 17psi it made 250rwkw

i missed the part where i said the global recession was labors fault? you might want to find out how to spell a party's name before voting for them

S1 RB25DET GT3076 .82 IW PFC Nismo 555's Z32 etc

its a percentage of the turbo or wastegates limit. 0% being stock boost and 100% is freeboosting gain adjusts how aggressive the solenoid is. low gain will make it ease onto boost and drop off in the top end, too much gain will cause it to spike. takes a fair bit of playing around but once you understand whats going on you should be able to figure out what you want for this start boost or set gain sets the boost at which the solenoid starts to open and feed pressure to the actuator, set this 1-2psi below the boost you want to run, setting it too high will cause it to spike

could always try and make one yourself. i did when i changed turbo (needed 100 on turbo side) and it was easier than i thought. just got a bit of 100mm pipe (was ally) with a 45 degree bend in it, cut it to length, drilled a couple holes and found some fitting for BOV and pcv, screwed them in and siliconed them, then just had to buy a 100mm joiner and a 100mm-80mm reducer from turbotech. got bits at different times and with other stuff but probs cost less than $100 all up

safc's work well on 20s because they dont go R+R as badly as 25s do. i had the same thing on my old 20 and made the same power. i was going to get a safc for my 25 but later discovered it wouldnt do too much. stock 25 ecus are simply too retarded, literally and its good to see kevin07 sticking with labour tradition and wasting all the money from budget surplus's under liberal. good stuff kev, keep up the good work

i've got the standard 25 fpr, had the car tuned with a bosch 910 (~400hp pump) then swapped to an 044 and it didnt change the idle at all. fuel reg ended up dying and replaced it with another stocker and its still fine

AVCR is a boost controller, even with a power fc you still need one, unless you buy a pfc boost kit which would be pointless if he already has an avcr

hook a line to a pressure source somewhere (manifold, cooler piping etc). T this line and hook it to COM on the solenoid and to the side of the wastegate. then run a line from NO on the solenoid to the top of the gate pretty sure thats how you hook it up but i've never done external before...

will help a little but you really need a full computer to tune timing aswell

www.mtqes.com.au

dont see why you cant T it, aslong as it gets a good boost signal. so to answer your question, yes

no. side feed vs top feed

turbotech are only $22 for sau users

2250 for just the turbs is a bit steep. i got my 3076 IW from MTQ and paid 1900 for the turbo with a larger gate fitted. i think the 3071's are generall cheaper than the 76's

yes. same size afm

.71 isnt a genuine garrett rear housing. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...T30/GT3071R.htm thats the part numbers for the proper gt3071

so +7 on the stock gauge is 0.135psi?

get a bellmouth, much better

the stock boost gauge isnt in psi, its in mmhg with +7 being close to 1bar i think

123456g is a rb 20 ignitor, 123g456 is a s1 rb25 ignitor

i have a 3076 .82 IW on my 25. got told by the company i bought it from i'd have massive boost control issues with IW but i gave it a go anyway. i think the most important thing is having a big bellmouth dump on it. i made one up with a mate with lots of flow around the gate area and with a 12psi actuator it holds 12psi perfectly the "bolt on" gt30s have a machined out rb25/vg30 rear housing to make it bolt on. even machined out to their max they're still not really big enough to work properly. definately get a genuine garrett rear housing. and the stock heat shield fits with some modification, i just bent myne a little bit and screwed it onto the manifold shield, works pretty well

pull them out and have a look, they're probably fouled myne went R+R with only 10psi, will be slighly different for ever car but