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JonnoHR31

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Everything posted by JonnoHR31

  1. than what exactly?
  2. recieved myne today. thanks again man
  3. works out cheaper if you get the bits yourself, this is what i roughly paid for my 3076 turbo (.82 rear IW with larger flapper) 1900 actuator and bracket - 130 spacer plate - ~10-15 oil and water line ~270 paid just over 100 bucks for 3" pipe, bends and flanges to make up a dump/front studs/nuts got for free and had a pipe lying around for the intake other random shit was about another 100-150
  4. what family of turbo? A/R's on their own are meaningless
  5. pcv valve closes under boost to stop the crankcase being pressurised
  6. same ones supershit have. as i said before they seam to pinch the joiner a bit and create a fold where boost could escape. maybe buy 1 from supercheap first and try it?
  7. got a couple of those on my intake, as they were the only ones i could find in 100mm at the time. where it bolts up it pinches the joiner a bit and would probably leak under boost, hex key bolts are a bit gay aswell. do the job and fairly cheap tho
  8. check for boost leaks
  9. i know the R in the part number means resistor type and non resistor type and i think your supposed to use non resistor in 25s, anyone know if it makes any difference? i have resistor type atm, simply because supershit didnt have anything else.
  10. if its that short little vacuum line for the regulator it shouldnt have fuel in it, if it does your regs probably fked. if the one on the bottom of the rail you have circled on the picture is T'd into the intake manifold then you'd be pumping huge amounts of fuel straight into the motor. Tee your boost controller into the same line that goes to your wastegate actuator or stock boost gauge
  11. when i got there (think it was just b4 they ran out of maps) they asked if i wanted to pay $5 or $10. who the hell complains about $10 for a charity cruise....
  12. my injectors were hitting 100% duty cycle at only 190rwkw on cold mornings. but you have an adjustable fpr so i guess you'll be fine.....
  13. yer saw that at city west, had a good laugh worst car award would have to go to that old holden that kept stalling in the carpark
  14. 33 box would be easier than a gtr box. with a gtr box you have to get rid of the transfew case and cover up the hole
  15. theres pics on antilag of it. bugger all damage, numberplate on the 34 got twisted and the front bar popped off the commodore there was a white 33 infront of me going through freo which painted some nice lines leaving the traffic lights
  16. massive turnout. good to see so many people helping a good cause
  17. gain adjusts how hard it comes onto boost. low boost adjusts the boost when its on low boost setting and high boost adjusts for high boost. turn the gain and low boost up a touch and see how you go
  18. and btw anti clockwise is advance, clockwise is retard
  19. cable tied to the stereo controls in my 31
  20. i'll be there around 8.30-8.45. gotta pick up mrs who doesnt finish work til 8.15 be there in the dirty 31
  21. the going back and forth real fast and having it fight you is power steering hammer, basically moving too fast for the power steering. you suddenly change direction while the power steerings still pushing the other way. commodores do it really badly...
  22. most of (if not all) the real 3076's come with the antisurge slots. just finished installing myne a few weeks ago, needs a tune but sounds cool
  23. 555s will be heaps for a highflow
  24. in the user manual it has it listed as an optional extra
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