JonnoHR31

if its just a temporary motor throw some new rings and bearings at it and drop it back in. provided you can do it yourself it shouldnt set you back any more than $500 for everything. if you cant do the bottom end find someone local on here who can and offer lots of beer.

yes people have, but other people have completely busted them doing this too. leave it in the standard position.

this. unless your patient enough to drive it sedately until empty, which most people arent. dont use any sort of octane booster, will only cause more trouble.

if its slowly degraded without touching the tune then somewhere else is up. checked all the usual sensor voltages and stuff with the power fc?

if you used a funnel i reckon you could top up the oil without removing the pipe, if your lazy myne sits in a similar position to wolverines, but hard down on the cap due to being a 30, the silicone joiners have enough flex in them to simply pull it out of the way whilst undoing the cap.

afm before the turbo is fine, just use a 4"-3" reducer somewhere between the turbo and afm. aslong as theres a bend and atleast ~400+mm between the turbo and afm it'll be fine.

yes, every time you turn the ignition off the ecu stays powered for an extra second or so and the pfc saves any changes made since power on to permanent memory, you could disconnect the battery for 5 years and your tune will be safe. was it all running fine before? did you change anything at all before it started running shit?

exactly, and what happens when you go past a turbos normally efficieny range? shaft speeds go up and heat goes up exponentially, so the inlet charge from a stock turbo at 18psi is gonna be a hell of a lot hotter than a gt35 at 18psi. Hot air is less dense, therefore the bigger turbo is flowing more air at the same boost level. This will apply at almost all boost levels but it becomes more apparent at higher boost levels. Again the bigger compressor will pump more efficiently and therefore put less heat into the inlet charge, cooler air is denser. Yes, the gains are from temperature and lower restrictions, but as you'd hopefully know temperature changes the density of air, cold air is more dense, hence why an intake charge at a set pressure is going to flow more air the colder it is. Bigger turbo, cooler intake charge, cooler charge, more dense air, more dense air more airflow at the same boost and therefore more power.

your forgetting one critical factor, temperature. a bigger turbo at the same boost level is flowing more air due to lower temps and usually less exhaust restriction aswell. by your theory you could take a 300rwkw motor and bolt on a standard rb25 turbo, changing nothing else and it should still make 300rwkw at 18-20psi boost, never gonna happen.

you all need to stop making excuses and just run more boost

personally i'd use a minimum of -2psi for setgain and +2psi for warning. if it spikes try -3psi setgain

who the hell installed your cams dry?

No rb25s have a dedicated vct drain, they all drain through the normal drains with all the other oil. The external hose that everyone calls the vct drain is more of a breather. There should definately be a restrictor somewhere in the vct system, the head would flood in no time without it. Its unlikely but is it hiding further down the oil gallery? The R33 RB25s have 3x1.5mm feeds, however the neo might be a little smaller due to having solid lifters, never seen for myself though.

import duties and taxes apply for anything over $1000, soon to be lowered more to help out australian retailers. The seller of those turbos is probably doing what most people do for those sort of items and understating the value.

as said it varies. usually somewhere between 190 and 240rwkw

the 3rd port is left open to atmosphere or returned to the intake before the turbo, this is the air thats bled off to give you extra boost. your solenoid will have 3 ports, COM, NO and NC. COM should be hooked up to a boost source. NO is used when your running s single port wastegate or actuator, run this to the side of the gate/actuator, or when using a dual power gate leave this open to atmo. NC is only used when you have a dual port gate, hook this up to the top port (with the side seeing a boost source, usually T'd off the COM line), in this case leave NO open to atmo. yes you can hook it up to the standard wires, shouldnt matter which way they go and yes switch can go on either wire.

mods: gt3076 .82 IW, nismo 555s, 044 etc fuel: bp98 power: at a guess 280-300rwkw oil: usually hpr5 useage: almost every weekend with a couple of failed trackdays lifespan: 2 yrs at over 250rwkw failure: n/a, pulled it out to go 30det comments:Motor never made as much power as others seamed to but never let me down, copped up to 25psi and a lot of knock along the way as i was learning to tune it myself. copped a fair bit of limiter abuse, oil pump is still going fine now on the 30. also ran for a week with a dud fuel reg and was leaning out to 15:1 under full load. when pulled down the pistons had very slight det damage but bottom end is otherwise perfect and will probably be used again when i eventually sell it.

where are you located, i have a dump to suit for sale but im in perth.... also, make sure you get the 56t non gtx version and the 4" intake, port shrouded compressor housing. gtx3076 should be left to external wastegate and large exhaust housing applications only

have you tried driving it with the vct unplugged then straight away again with it plugged in yet?

workshop manual should have all the diagrams you need. you can download a pdf of it from somewhere, google it

enough to fill the sump up to the hump on the dipstick?? no one can tell you exactly how much

if you really wanna test the solenoid pull it out of the head and make sure it blocks off the oil gallery when earthed out. if it does and its getting triggered by the ecu then its working, the only way for the cam not to advance then is if theres something wrong internally which is very rare

around double the price, definately not cheaper but drums is the only way to get e85 in some areas and its the only way to get the race e85

yep 3040 (3082 in new terms) is way too much compressor for a gt30 hot side. if you already have the gt35 and can easily get a smaller rear then that would obviously be the easiest and cheapest option. a lot of people seam to get good results with the .63 gt35 which is strange because its a bit of a mismatched turbo. personally i'd prefer a larger housed gt3076 but each to their own. just keep in mind, even if you get similar results the larger reared gt30 will be easier to drive than the .63 gt35, it will come on more progressively and make traction a lot easier

if your not after anymore than 300-310rwkw then go the gt30, perfect for it