JonnoHR31

not quiet the same. stock 25 usually makes 12 odd psi by around 2500rpm i think. gt3076 on a 30det usually makes 1 bar by around 3500rpm. i wouldnt go any bigger for a street car

unplug it and see if your power stays consistent. it normally turns on just off idle then off at ~4500rpm but if its somehow randomly switching at higher revs it could be robbing you of some power

when you go to nissan just ask for a 15208-H890C, thats 100% the right part for R33s

or just get a genuine filter from your local nissan dealership, they're always in stock and not much more than a ryco. yer the rycos are fine, but the nissan filter is a little better

rb30 are 2mm. all rb25s are 3 x 1.5mm factory, with the front being solely for vct

^this, your tuner sounds like a muppet. you want to run the biggest gap you can without getting any spark blow out, so if its not missing under load 1.1 is fine, most standard cars with old coilpacks will blow out at 1.1 with higher than standard boost, but that doesnt mean you should run a smaller gap on all cars regardless of condition. 6's are fine, they're still 1 heat range colder than standard, 7's will simply not last as long for no gain whatsoever in your case. the only difference between the bcp and bk is the v groove tip and depth, fairly minor differences and both will work fine.

you can use the existing settings as a base to start from but it wont give exactly the same boost, you'll need to tweak it.

yer your right that is a garrett casting, sorry. in that case it'll be fine. the T4 flange fouled on one of the compressor housing bolts (i couldnt rotate it out of the way) so i had to leave it out and undoing/tightening the oil feed requires taking off the compressor housing. also due to the design to seperate the turbo from manifold i had to take both out of the car with the lines attached and do it on the ground, impossible to get to on the motor. but its from a combination of the massive T4 flange and the design of the hks low mount manifold. edit: cant remember how long postage took sorry, was way too long ago

as said leave the gearbox attached. leave p/s, air con and clutch slave all attached to their lines and unbolt them from motor/box so you dont have to deal with any of the fluids. make sure you pull it out somewhere with plenty of height clearance as you'll need to get a fair bit of angle to get the box out aswell. best bet for getting it done quickly would be to find someone on here local to you and pay them with beer to give you some guidanc. once you know what your doing you can go from complete running car to motor on the ground with box off in around 2 hours working at a steady pace, rushing just leads to losing skin....

sidefeed go the deatschwerks top feed go the IDs

im currently using the t4 version of that ATP housing. i purchased it off their housing website any problems. it fits and works but the casting isnt up to the same standards as the garrett housings. having said that though they seam to work fine and perform well. i had a few troubles with fitment but all of them were due to the massive T4 flange and manifold design, with a T3 flange it should be easy.

yer thats the one i was talking about and yes its a factory 30e+t high comp motor from memory. it definately sounds like a s2 block then, which means it cant be some early production block that for whatever reason was lacking somewhere.

yer thats what i meant, they do have a cap but its not on the radiator, its on a seperate resevoir.

Auto Clutch

as quiet as the mufflers you supply

afaik the a6 was just so you know its not an a8 (vlt) block. seeing as all 31s were NA (with 1 exception) there was no need for the number anymore? edit: OP, does the VL block have the machined section where the tensioner relocation goes?

was in this section from memory. pretty sure that guy is on here somewhere

should be fine, aslong as your swirl pot is higher than the top of the rad obviously. a lot of new cars dont have radiator caps anymore.

those "people" have first hand experience with the new deatschwerks. exactly what experience have you had with them in the last year that proves they're so terrible? or are you another one jumping on the "i heard a rumour they're highflows and highflows are shit" bandwagon. personally running 1000cc dw sidefeeds which are only a single hole design so i wasnt expecting anything flash in the way of spray pattern but so far they perform just as well as the nismo 555s they replaced. the best part, they're cheaper, flow almost double what the nismos do, come in flow matched sets with warranty and support and come with new o rings, lube and detailed instructions. yes ID's are great but they dont make 100% drop in injectors to suit all of us and dont do anything side feed edit: OP, if your gonna get some have a look at their website, should be the cheapest place to buy. GCG are the aus distributor for them but they do throw a small markup on them.

now it just needs an rb20 for an anchor

everyone who doesnt have mahles seams to say that yet i've never heard any complaints from people actually using them

^this do not baby a freshly built motor for 5000 k's to "run it in". the entire run in will be over after the first drive which should contain a wide variety of revs and load

you can, it'll be cheaper for a while.....

76.5

sorry if its already been mentioned but have you put it on here? http://www.facebook.com/perthwacrime