JonnoHR31

good to see your being as helpful *cough*condescending*cough* as ever mafia..... depends what they are at the moment. i wouldnt go any further than 20-25 degrees in n01 as any more is likely to go backwards and have the same effect as less timing. unless your timing in these cells is really low for some reason this will just help to mask whatevers really causing it. its sounding more and more like a sticky iac/aac

how often you need to change would come down to clearances aswell. if you have a nice fresh tight motor you'd have a lot less water dilution problems and could use the oil longer than if you have a lot of blowby.

BCPR6ES-11 if your coils are good (sounds like it). if it misses gap them down .1mm at a time until it stops. 7s are pointless in a stock motor and will only foul up slightly faster for no gain.

as said raise both the f/c values in the rpm menu and add a few degrees of timing to n01, p01-p04

that could just be from the retarded timing, the iac valce is letting in more air to compensate and keep the idle at ~800. aslong as TPS voltage is below .5v (0% throttle) the pfc should be in idle mode, in which case the timing map is ignored and timing is based on idle speed and is varied between 10 and 20 degrees (it aims for 15 if everythings working as it should) to keep idle at whatever its supposed to be. if your 100% sure cam timing is spot on and the pfc is showing 15 degrees then it can only be CAS, wiring, timing light or the power fc itself. can you get hold of another timing light?

aslong as you top it right up and take some water with you it should be fine to drive there, just keep a close eye on the water temp with the power fc

its funny becayse it looks just like him

i have an old pump in perth you can have for free. msg me 0416 914 448

no and no a n1 pump might work fine for most people but unless its a dedicated track car its a step backwards, a standard pump will work better in a street car, even one that sees track work. those low temp thermostats would have to be the worst thing nismo has ever made, again a standard thermostat works much better all round, even for track cars. the standard ecu and 90% of aftermarket ecu's dont get out of cold enrichment until 80 deg, so having a low temp thermostat simply keeps you in cold enrichment longer and sometimes forever (winter nights) without actually helping to stop overheating at all. if your car overheats with a standard thermostat (provided its working of course) its still gonna overheat with a nismo thermostat.

anyway back on topic.... how was everyones new years?

standard genuine pump with decent quality gasket silicone around it

yep facing forward with tie downs on all 4 wheels is the best way

this! atleast when you inherit $10m from your dead nigerian uncles cousin you know how much you have to pay straight up.....

closed throttle is when you have the most -ve pressure in standard form as its sucking through the intake manifold, once you go past 0 boost the pcv valve shuts and its sucked through the intake pipe (high flow but not much vacuum).

+2. half the time "fixing" what isnt broke for "peace of mind" makes it less reliable. 90% of the stock parts (from engines to boxes to diffs to axles etc) can handle a lot more abuse than most people would ever give them, until it becomes a problem/restriction just leave it as is.

Unless they've been abused you shouldnt have any snapped studs, they're very durable. my skylines 25 years old now and has had every drivetrain part removed and reinstalled atleast a dozen times. the original gbox mount studs, engine mount studs and subframe mounts etc are all still original and working perfectly

yer i know, just saying its lucky you didnt just throw it on without pulling it apart like i probably would have

Very nice writeup, will definately come in handy down the track when i get some of those gears. Thanks that cracked gears looks like its seen a lot of limiter abuse, the point where its cracked is right where the crank hits it when it hammers back and forth. disaster waiting to happen, lucky you pulled it apart.

i think theres a small chance he may have sorted these issues out sometime in the last 3 and a half years

theres a small block with 2 hoses going to it and a bolt ontop at the top front of the plenum. it has "never open when hot" or similar on it, that bolt is the bleed screw, dont overtighten it, they snap easily

cut a coke bottle (or similar) in half and tape the cap end onto the top of the radiator, fill it with coolant with the bleed screw undone until theres no more air coming out the bleed screw. or just park on a hill or jack stands with the front of the car facing up

from factory theres 2 temp sensors, 1 for the ecu and 1 for the gauge, both located where the top hose clamps onto the motor. the bigger one with a 2 pin plug is for the ecu, you must leave this as is. the smaller single wire sender is for the gauge in the dash, you can replace this with your aftermarket sender if it fits.

your oil and water lines, dump pipe and probably intake pipes wont match up to the vg30 turbo though buy another 30et turbo

last time you checked you were wrong your average coolant has a higher boiling point than straight water but it doesnt transfer heat as well as straight water does, hence why straight water will generally yield slightly lower temps, but you have a lower boiling point and will corrode the shit out of everything.

come to perth, winter compared to last year but still 30+