JonnoHR31

penrite sin 0 here, whatever weight that is

black (i think) 34 gtr on the esplanade in the city earlier this avo

the oil pump mark and bottom timing mark will line up the same, its just more accurate with the balancer (assuming your keyway isnt flogged) as it has finer marks closer together. the ideal way to set cam timing is with a dial gauge down the spark plug hole of cyl 1, but its not practical if you dont have one. if both alignment keys are there then its not possible for it to align wrong, the key is beveled to guide the cas onto the right teeth if inserted slightly out of alignment. if its inserted way out of alignment it simply wont go in and forcing it will just break the cas. 99% sure power fc doesnt have any trigger angle correction as its an application specific ecu (ie, plug and play).

with ls2 and ls3's they do.... the ls3's that come out in the HSV's are what 317kw? my brother bought a crate ls3 with a mild cam, replaced his ls1 with it and with a tune (already had an exhaust) it made 440rwhp (330rwkw), been done countless times with the same results. they may be a dinosaur motor but they're pretty easy to get power out of and a hell of a lot nicer to drive than most 300+kw RB's

when you line the balancer TDC mark up to the lower timing cover is the exhaust cam gear lined up exactly on the slot (not the white mark) in the rear timing cover? does the exhaust cam still have the alignment tooth for the cas?

white stagea with some shiny rims heading north on erindale road through warwick about an hour ago

the large single turbo vg30 turbo bolts straight on and is a very slight upgrade as it has a larger turbine housing. unless you get one cheap though its money better spent elsewhere

ouch. sorry to hear bubba. i take it the cars a writeoff?

are you getting spark? if so cas is fine injectors should have constant 12v whilst the ignition is on, have you checked?

this, dont use the snake oil, get them properly cleaned if you pull them out.

time to flow test no.6 injector

exactly. im not saying it doesnt make any difference, im saying for your average stocker motor spending an extra $50 per oil change simply isnt worth it when the motor is only work $1000, if that.

only problem is the only divided 1.06 on the market is the ATP housing, which is pretty average. looking forward to seeing how this goes

this. rb25 head gasket will not work with a rb30 block. rb30 is the cheapest from nissan. if you had just a 25 in your car before then use everything from the 25 (balancer, block fittings, oil cooler, oil and water pumps etc)

only d-jetro doesnt need afm's. rb26 power fc's come in both l-jetro (need afms) and d-jetro (dont need afms) versions

get a machine shop to remove the sharp edges when they weld up the vct feed and it should be fine. hydraulic lifters can go anywhere as they set their own clearance

200ZR's have a rear sumped RB if you need to find one

but if you adjust it at all you'll need to adjust your tune to suit

and make sure you clean every last trace of old gasket from the block and head

i may be able to do a little reviewing from time to time

pretty good reason no one mentioned it....

na hes saying nissan is one of the most expensive places to buy a nissan gasket. the lewis engines link is a genuine nissan head gasket and is less than 40% of the price nissan charge. metal gasket is a complete waste for a stocker motor, buy that one from lewis engines and spend the rest on VB

if your running a lot of boost on a built motor they can be better. but you need to deck the block and the head to a smoother finish than normal. for a stocker motor its just something else that can go wrong for no real gain.

+1 for genuine nissan gasket. has a lot more tolerance for imperfect surfaces and is a lot cheaper. they're around $150 from nissan but look around a few of the traders websites for prices, for example about a year ago lewis engines were clearing old stock and had brand new genuine gaskets for $45

i wonder how all these RBs managed to survive the 80s and 90s where even the best oils werent as good as your average semi synth is now. as zebra said its not a F1 engine. the gtx2 i used to put in my old rb30e was so shit it made noticeably more power after an oil change (only 5000kms), was still going strong after 400 000 k's of being abused. paying any more than $50-60 per change for a street car with a stock motor is a complete waste. track work and built engines is a different story.