unless you dont need 1000cc worth of fuel. i have 1000cc injectors for future proofing but only run a single 044, which sure as hell doesnt flow 7L/min.
testing it where the problem is occuring is the only way to see exactly what is going on in that situation, unless you have an overkill of a fuel system and simply want to make sure its roughly flowing enough.
the problem is garrett dont make a 1.06 TS housing, the ATP housing is the only option and as DCIEVE said its not the greatest quality housing or easiest to work on. i have one on a hks cast manifold and to seperate the turbo from the manifold i have to remove the manifold and turbo from the motor, take the compressor housing off (which is missing 1 bolt where it fouls on the ATP housing) and then attempt to undo the housing bolts....
even measuring it and calculating max fuel flow would be different to whats actually happening under full load. the only way to know for sure is to test pressure/return flow under full power
use a small screwdriver or blade to scratch the position of the bolt heads onto the cas before removal then do them up in the same spot. if ever in doubt set it slightly further clockwise until you can get a timing light on it.
on this topic. what usually happens when a turbo finally dies from bearing falure? do wheels often fly off or do they just get real noisey and inefficient? my gt30's starting to make a bit of noise, kinda gay considering it only has 10k km's on it....
go read the service manual, no mention of any need to replace them. and no, nissan aren't idiots.
having said that, it is a good idea to replace them, but its not essential, 99.9% of old ones will work fine.
they're fine to re use, just make sure they're torqued properly and go over all of them 2-3 times at the end.
yes they stretch but if they were f**ked after one use nissan would specify them as replaceable after every disassembly. have re used my standard bolts 4 times now with ~300rwkw and no problems whatsoever
external setups have a much better flow path than internal setups, even when the gate is closed, resulting in better spool
also, with an external setup you usually feed boost to the top port which keeps the gate completely sealed until needed. internal setups with a normal actuator will always crack open well before you reach target boost.
if its compressor surge you can try tweaking the tune if it doesnt do it by much.
otherwise you basically have to try make it lazier onto boost, so either lower gain settings or lift your foot slightly through that area.
if your running a standard internal motor just stick to 6's, run better overall and last longer. dont bother with 7s unless your making big power and heat induced detonation is a problem.