JonnoHR31

i wouldnt count on making 320rwkw with an internal gate turbo on the stock manifold on 98. sure it happens, but most people fall well short. realistically you'll be limited to around 260-300rwkw depending on various factors. the standard manifold also makes the gtx3076 overkill compressor wise, better off with a standard gt3076. as for injectors if you can find a set of nismos for sale at a decent price go for them. otherwise theres a few other bolt in options, plenty of info on here if you do a search. as for bolting it onto the stock manifold, you'll need a 10mm spacer as said, along with longer studs, nuts and washers, custom dump, oil and water lines, cooler pipe mods and a custom intake pipe.

complete waste of time and money. also not possible with the standard ecu, your "nismo" mechanic is wrong. unless your maxxing your standard afm (not gonna happen on a stock car) and have an aftermarket ecu a z32 afm is gonna do more harm than good.

he means 3000 miles not 3 litres. as said above, black oil just means its picking up carbon deposits, aslong as everything else is fine dont worry about it.

thats not a s13 engine bay. unless the pic is of the donor motor before it came out?

yer pfc goes into closed loop at idle, adjusting the timing by up to 5 degrees to reach the target idle rpm. the main ignition map is ignored. as for the roughness, just leave it rich, having it idle at 13:1 isnt gonna do any harm and isnt gonna make much difference to fuel economy. idles better with a/c due to the extra load as said, same as retarding the timing and winding the idle screw up, your using the same amount of fuel just with more air and less timing for the same result.

looks like a 20et to me?

99% of knock readings on limiter are false. unless you've got more timing in that cell than others under full power it'll fine knock wise. agree with the rest though, bad idea in general to limiter bash

ignore the grub screw, it was used as an alternative to welding the head but it doesnt work, you must weld it as you've already had done. aslong as your other 2 head feeds are large enough to support vct aswell then you should be able to just drill out the brass plug as shown and plug vct back in. be sure to flush all the metal shavings out of the first though and then pour heaps of oil in the area and dump it out of the sump.

as jez said, latency makes a big difference at low duty cycles (idle and light load) but makes bugger all difference at high duty cycles (full load) whereas % correction makes the same difference everywhere. so if you set the % correction to 80% as you have it should be fairly close. then you get the car idling and adjust the latency until you have the same afr's as you did with the old injectors and it should be fairly close. you then check afr's under load and adjust the % correction until you have the same as you did with the old injectors, if the injectors flow what they should then this should just be a minor tweak if you have to change it at all. then once you've got that set, check idle afr's again and adjust the latency if required. the reason latency affects light load is its a set time that is either added or subtracted from the pulse time, assuming voltage stays the same this amount stays constant, therefore makes a bigger difference in a situation where the overall pulse time is only 1-2ms than it would under load where pulse times are more like 8-10ms (just an example, would vary depending on setup). the % adjustment simply multiplies the entire base map by this %. so if with your standard injectors you have a 1ms pulse at idle and 10ms pulse at peak power then you put in bigger injectors and scale them to 50% without changing latency or any of the maps your now gonna have a .5ms pulse at idle and 5ms at peak power, therefore your going to have half the pulsewidth accross the entire map. hope that makes sense.

either pack it with grease and find something thats a tight fit inside the auto one and bash it into the crank or if that doesnt work weld something to it (without touching the crank) and weld that to a chain or similar and give it a tug.

once you have the auto one out clean out the crank as best you can then soak the new spigot in engine oil then tap it in with a socket and hammer. make sure you use the right size socket as its very soft and distorts easily.

yep most RB's, especially ones with old ignitors and coilpacks, idle like shit any leaner than 13-13.5. the reason it doesnt with the a/c on is the revs are higher, as soon as your off idle you can usually go as lean as 15-16:1 without any misfire issues. are you sure the nismo lag times are less than standard? almost always bigger injectors have a higher lag time. either way if you have a wideband best bet is to adjust the scaling until you get the same afr's you had before with the standard injectors. adjust the latency until your idle afr's are the same then use high load to adjust the % correction and check both again.

no auto rb30s have anything in the back of the crank the correct size for a manual input shaft.

auto and manual are different sizes. if your converting from auto you have to change it

if your after some free advice without any obligations drop into harriss engines in ossie park, old guy there is very helpful and loves a chat.

speedo drive => cluster => ecu. on the ecu side on a 33 its a green wire with a yellow trace iirc, 32 should be the same. not sure on compatibility between models though if your running a rb25 etc

what happened when you used the figures on the flow report? myne were fairly close, ignore the email, they are usually more than double the latency of stockers.

at 5.12v (maxxed) the z32 afm is flowing 13% more air than a q45 afm

did it make any bad noises when it died? if its mashed valves you would have heard it. and assuming the bottom end was at tdc when you took the pic of the cam gear before removing anything theres no way its timing related. 4 degrees is nothing

hows tpg go for service and reliabilty? have any trouble with torrents?

z32 maxxes out at slightly more power than a q45 anyway if you can get a z32 it'll be better but if you run out of time the q45 should be fine, will just be a little harder to bolt up as said.

all of the import skylines from hr31 on use a drum handbrake on the inside of the rotor. so the caliper itself is the same style as the front in that it just has pistons pushed by fluid from the master, they have nothing to do with the handbrake.

100 is normal. if the settings are actually 0 (and not just showing 0 because they're locked or from a different version) the car wont start or run

and timing. did you open it with the same version of fc edit that was used to read it from the pfc? is that setting locked?

why new? i have a good condition one here you can have