JonnoHR31

That's a standard 25 block, sounds like you got ripped off unfortunately.

Yep, definitely not a RB30.

There is no s1 or s2 power FC, the one model suits both s1 and s2. The ECR and RB25 codes simply determine whether it's an older model or newer (still old) model power fc. Test in another car to make sure it's not stuffed, if it works then have a look at your wiring, check voltage at everything that should have 12v and make sure the earths are good. You could have a dodgy wire somewhere that's supplying enough power/earth for a standard ecu but not enough for the FC, they do draw slightly more power.

Yep, 200ZR (RB20DET) sump is rear as well.

No, will be a downgrade in your case.

The boost sensor for the ECU (the hose you circled in blue earlier) doesn't see vacuum, don't touch this one. The standard gauge is electric, but it uses a boost sensor which is then hooked up via a hose to the manifold (the one Johnnilicte showed). You should T into this one

A stock motor will flood the head and starve the pickup if revved for any extended period. The "drain" at the front of the motor is a breather, not a drain. Any RB build should include drilling out the oil drains, there are no downsides and it helps avoid problems later on, so why not do it? As said, if your not going to fit a crank collar and get an aftermarket (N1 is not aftermarket) pump then just use a standard 25 pump, they do a good job and are very reliable. Don't buy a new N1 pump, sure some say they're fine, but why pay more for something that's generally less reliable? I'm sure your tuner is good, but how much experience does he have with building RB engines?

Doesn't surprise me at all given the way they treated some of their non Asian customers, good riddance!

1/3 of a tooth isn't that much, try another tensioner and see how it goes, I don't see any reason why it can't be fixed by that.

If the only problem is a slight retardation from head skimming you could simply replace the idler with another tensioner and bring everything back to where it should be.

No, don't T into that hose, as said you won't get vacuum. On the back drivers side of the intake manifold there will be a vacuum line the same size as that one which goes to your standard boost gauge, T into that. Basically you can hook your boost gauge up to anything that's plumbed in AFTER the throttle body, except the fuel reg hose, but that's at the front of the engine anyway.

More than enough if you do it properly.

If the bores are fine then yes, normally you can just hone them and put standard sized (86mm) pistons in. You know 26 pistons will usually give you a lower compression ratio than standard 25 right? It sounds like your best option could be simply sourcing a good complete stocker bottom end and throwing your head on it. Assuming you don't need a built motor?

Depends how much damage you've done, you have to inspect it and see. No one on a forum is going to be able to tell you without looking at it.

S1 still has 2 plugs, the one you've circled is for the auto computer, the one hanging underneath is for the ECU. If the car was a factory manual then the plug you've circled isn't used, ignore it.

Thanks but already found one, turns out the ECU isn't the problem.

Definitely need to bring back the + and - rating for posts! Marting, did you try going to your local post office anyway? The delivery slips usually say not to go until the next day but I always go later the same day and it's always been there.

Not for the pits but does anyone have a standard turbo neo ECU (auto or manual) I can borrow to diagnose what I think is a dead ecu? Any help will be rewarded with beer for the drive home . 0416 914 448

Unfortunately sarcasm often goes undetected on forums. It's an interesting idea and good on you for trying it, hopefully they turn out to be a good long term option.

Once you have an airflow map for it, it'd be a piece of cake to setup with a PFC. Getting the map would be the hard part.

By the time you start the car and select a gear you have oil pressure (unless something is seriously wrong), just drive the f**k*ng thing. Aslong as you're not thrashing the crap out of it before the oil warms up it'll be fine. As a few people have said, letting it sit and idle before driving does more harm than good.

Will be fine to leave in, just make sure the surge tank is plumbed up properly.

I have these left over from a conversion, send me a message on 0416 914 448

My thoughts also. I've had a heap of oil go through the intake via breathers and I've never seen it swirled like that. I'd check your FMIC for leftover oil from your previous problems, it looks like it's getting blown back through the turbo when you back off.

Take a picture of the front of the motor around the tensioners and post it up.