JonnoHR31

wait your talking about a standard vlt manifold? they flow the same if not worse than a standard 25 manifold. absolute waste of time modifying it to fit. you cant set it up to handle 350rwkw with a budget of only $450. either use a standard manifold and setlle for less power or keep saving and do it properly

you wont have a proper external gate setup for under $450, simple as that. the hks manifolds can be had for around 600, but as with any aftermarket manifold theres other costs in getting it all together and running.

nope, low temp thermostats are a bad idea. genuine 76.5C thermostats work perfectly for all applications. the only time you'd swap is if you have a neo (which has a higher temp thermostat for emmisions) and want to change it for a 76.5

standard bung is 18x1.5mm which is the same as the bosch lsu sensors used by innovate and several other brands. no you cant wire the wideband directly into the narrowband signal, the wideband needs the controller to run it.

not the case. boost pressure isnt the be and end all when it comes to reliability. just use it as a rough guide. aslong as there was no knock and temps were kept under control theres no reason you couldnt run 30psi with a standard h/g and head bolts

23psi here with too much timing aswell. 2 big ends just touched the crank and were lightly scratched but not enough to kill it. 18psi is fine if the tune is fine

why wouldnt it be?

does it do it running standard boost? if not then your simply running too much boost

overfill the oil to the hump on the dipstick and see if it keeps doing it

you've got mail

the one on the end of the rail near cyl 1 is the pressure reg, the other one is just a dampener. what boost are you running with what ecu?

personally i find xp the best, but thats mainly because i know my way around it better than any other o/s.

PM me your email address and i'll send you a few different tunes i've had

i can promise you it wouldnt , its never been over 76 on the street, even on 40 degree days. yes it'll budge if you sit on full load for extended periods but in your everyday thrashing it doesnt. hr31 and aus spec engine mounts are 100% identical

myne does the same, wont budge from 69 on a cool night/cold day no matter how hard you drive it. also has a genuine thermostat in perfect working order. OP, for a street car the standard clutch fan is much better than thermos, leave it as is and spend the money on other mods. if you have overheating issues, sort them out, thermos wont help at all.

what kind of batteries arent sealed? i have a regular century battery with small terminals you can borrow. got some stocker rims too but the tyres arent very pit friendly.

depends how good you are with a grinder

doesnt matter, they're the same

aslong as the octane is actually the same as whatever your cars tuned to suit it'll be fine. the afr's shouldn't lean out by more than 4-5% which is nothing.

31s can run e10 no worries. they have the same fuel hoses as other skylines, they're just a little older. if they corrode they were already f**ked anyway and should be replaced.

more timing will bring boost on faster time wise but later in the rpm. unless its miles out the tune isnt gonna make much difference to spool times as said

myths. e10 isnt gonna corrode anything more than petrol would. should be fine switching to it, wouldnt hurt to check knock levels though.

havent seen any rock solid proof but oil pressure should be fine if the head feeds are large enough. in standard form the 25 has 2 1.5mm head feeds and a seperate 1.5mm feed for vct. so currently you effectively have 2/3 the standard oil being fed to the head, which would normally be about right given the flooding issues you have when revving them for any extended period. but at the same time the vct still needs just as much oil and if its getting it then the rest of the head is only left with half what it has in standard form. have you checked your actually getting oil pressure to the vct? easiest way would be to pull the intake cam cover off and make sure no1 cam cap is getting pressure.

your forgetting 280kw isnt 475hp. i dont see any reason a rb25 couldnt make a healthy ~260rwkw with the proper garrett housing, you'll need to run a little more boost than you would with a gt30 but thats no big deal.

they vary a lot. i pulled my rb25 timing gear off with my fingers, just slid straight off. then i needed a grinder to get the rb30 gear off, was fused to the crank. if its that bad you can try drilling and tapping it for a puller or you can cut it off like i did and use another one. i have a spare if you destroy yours