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JonnoHR31

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Everything posted by JonnoHR31

  1. JonnoHR31
    1.5mm is standard for RB25s. The only RB to come standard with 2.0mm feeds is RB30.
  2. JonnoHR31
    Aren't the TruTrac's mechanical lockers designed for 4WDing? If it's the ones I'm thinking of they'd be good for burnouts but not much else
  3. JonnoHR31
    correct
  4. JonnoHR31
    1-4 is the same in all of them. 5th and reverse are the only gears that are different between 30, 20 and 25/26 with the 30 having the shortest 5th, 25 the longest and the 20 in the middle. for a rough reference with a 25 box, 3.9s and 245/45/18s at 100km/h I'm doing 2500rpm.
  5. JonnoHR31
    That's with an aftermarket cam remember, not 100% standard. Brothers old LS1 had aftermarket valve springs that were supposed to be the ducks nuts, 10k kms later one of them broke and the valve had sexy time with the piston, stocker holden springs FTW!
  6. JonnoHR31
    Manual 31s were 3.7 and autos were 3.9. Apart from 5th gear all the box ratios are the same as 32 and 33.
  7. JonnoHR31
    Yes it COULD be done but i don't see any benefit over simply relocating the left tensioner as everyone else does. The only benefit to that setup would be the possibility of removing the cam gears and changing cam timing without removing the balancer and bottom cover, but it'd probably take longer to figure it all out and relocate the second tensioner than you'd ever spend taking a balancer off.
  8. JonnoHR31
    Yer but my main point was you don't even need an ls7 to easily make more than enough power for the street without losing any driveability. A LS3 with a cam, exhaust and tune in something lighter than a commodore will destroy anything RB powered on the street, except for a very well set up GTR.
  9. JonnoHR31
    Nothing would suprise me at the moment.... None of the governments seam to give two shits about ethanol fuel, especially over here where it's still illegal because they haven't got around to ammending the old laws. STFU eastern pricks and your ethanol!
  10. JonnoHR31
    Not even, got a ls3 here that came with an aftermarket cam and clutch brand new (straight from GM apart from cam and clutch) for 6k. Made 330rwkw straight out of the crate. Pick up a second hand gearbox, sort a few custom mounts and you'll be killing RB's everywhere in no time. They may be "dinosaurs" as far as technology goes but bang for buck, not much beats them.
  11. JonnoHR31
    http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17246&cat=278&page=1
  12. JonnoHR31
    Clockwise is retarded, anti-clockwise is advanced. OP, if everything is running fine and it's been like that for a long time just leave it.
  13. JonnoHR31
    http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=143701.0 Best way in Perth is to just drive it until it gets stickered and then get permits for the work done.
  14. JonnoHR31
    Gap the plugs down to .6, if the miss goes away then be happy. If it doesn't make any difference then something else is up and your coilpacks are probably no good. Much cheaper (free if you have the tools) to simply gap the plugs down before you go changing coilpacks or anything else.
  15. JonnoHR31
    I hope you're joking? Theres no way this would ever work properly, mainly due to latency.
  16. JonnoHR31
    sounds like a vac leak or afm problem. given you've tried afm i'd search everywhere for leaks
  17. JonnoHR31
    Better off spending the money on making a 30 block look like a 25. Machine the engine number off and get your 25 number stamped on, make a custom bottom timing cover and re drill the engine mounts 20mm lower (and patch the old holes if you want extra stealth).
  18. JonnoHR31
    using some random aftermarket replacement rb30 pump here at 7500rpm with no issues. you can use anything except a rb25 pump though
  19. JonnoHR31
    Both washers go on top of the guard, the spring washer goes on top of the flat washer. Torque the nuts to 12NM from memory
  20. JonnoHR31
    Na, OP
  21. JonnoHR31
    Shouldn't need to change anything other than what's been mentioned already. What do the plugs look like? All this fiddling could have fouled them up pretty badly. It sounds like you might be best off getting it towed, if you do just make sure you take a spare set of plugs with you incase the current ones are no good.
  22. JonnoHR31
    Exactly what motor are we talking about here?
  23. JonnoHR31
    No you won't, you can safely grind enough off the block for any manifold to bolt up without hitting any galleries. Just don't go too crazy with the grinder as you will eventually hit a (probably water) gallery.
  24. JonnoHR31
    This, should solve your problem nicely. Put enough washers on there to hold it shut and then an extra 2-3mm, should raise your boost a touch.
  25. JonnoHR31
    Your in the wrong menu. Initialize it again to undo everything you've done. Select VG30. Go into the Injector menu (not Ign/Inj) and set the first column to 66.5% and the second to .18. You shouldn't need to touch the main maps for simply limping it there. Also make sure the boost control kit is turned off if your not using it, from memory it's on by deault.
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