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JonnoHR31

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Everything posted by JonnoHR31

  1. JonnoHR31
    this. assuming you have a rb25 the injector settings will be 66.5% and +.18ms and the afm is VG30
  2. JonnoHR31
    a .63 housing on a gtx3076 is a little silly. you'd be much better off with a gtx3071 or a normal gt3076 as with the .63 you'll be limited to a fair bit less than the x76 compressor can flow. still, not a bad graph considering. the advantage is when you want a little more you can simply bolt on a bigger housing and maybe a better manifold and make a fair bit more
  3. JonnoHR31
    Tune, 2 teeth isn't enough to bend valves
  4. JonnoHR31
    It's a well proven fact that surge slots SLIGHTLY increase lag, they are used on turbos with compressors that flow a lot relative to the turbine side as they are at a higher risk of surge than other turbos. You can't just drill holes in your turbo and expect it to work just like surge slots, it simply won't! Are you 100% sure you know exactly what surge is and that your turbo is actually surging? If it is the easiest fix (albeit not ideal) is to make it slightly lazier coming onto boost.
  5. JonnoHR31
    A BOV has nothing to do with surge, a BOV prevents flutter which is very different.
  6. JonnoHR31
    That wont be your problem....
  7. JonnoHR31
    Plenum can stay in, just be extremely careful when pulling the rail out and don't force anything or you'll break shit. The most important bit is don't round the phillips screws that hold the injectors in or your in for a shit time, soak them in wd40/rp7/whatever you have and use a screwdriver that fits properly. Once you have the rail out and the injector caps off its pretty easy, lever the old injectors out with 2 small flathead screwdrivers in the slots on the sides, put the new o-rings on the new injectors, lube them up and drop them in. Don't do the caps up too tight either, they only need to hold the injector in and not come loose.
  8. JonnoHR31
    Just get some billet gears for your standard 25 pump and a crank collar, should be more than strong enough.
  9. JonnoHR31
    If there is any damage at all to the crank keyways then pull the motor and replace it. otherwise if you can get some parts cheap enough it might be worth trying your luck with a new/good condition key and balancer to see if the valves are fine. Don't spend too much fixing it though, as you might be up for a new motor anyway.
  10. JonnoHR31
    Shit, so the crank gear actually spun? If so you'll probably have some bent valves
  11. JonnoHR31
    And adjustable cam gears with 3 shit bolts.....
  12. JonnoHR31
    Yer try a little less fuel. Also, before you even consider swapping the cas get a timing light on it, it sounds like the cas is fine and a timing light will confirm that. Back to basics really, if its got spark it can only be fuel, timing (cam or or ignition) or a f**ked motor (very unlikely).
  13. JonnoHR31
    The lower timing whilst cranking is normal and needed, when your cranking the motors only doing 200-300rpm so the piston isnt moving up and down very fast at all, therefore you dont need much timing to get the burn happening around TDC. What does injector duty look like whilst cranking?
  14. JonnoHR31
    If it all works leave your existing loom in the car, unplug everything on the engine side and remove the f*cked motor. Replace it with the good motor, swap any sensors/coilpacks that are different, plug everything back in and drink beer while doing skids!
  15. JonnoHR31
    If your happy to keep paying for $500+ tunes every time your setup changes then go ahead. I've saved well over $1000 on dyno tuning alone in the last few years and learnt a hell of a lot along the way, as im sure a lot of other DIY tuners on here have. At the end of the day if everyone was like you and unwilling to try anything for yourself we'd all be paying workshops to do every last bit of work on our cars and the vast knowledge on this site would cease to exist as 99% of it comes from people getting out there and doing it themselves.
  16. JonnoHR31
    The thing is, back in the 1980s no one was making 300+rwkw out of 100% standard RB bottom ends, if you tried to with 80s spec mineral oil theres a pretty good chance it wouldn't last long. For a standard car, sure anything thats costs more than $1/L will probably be fine if changed regularly, but if your near the limits of a standard motor or on the track a lot decent oil does help it last longer.
  17. JonnoHR31
    Don't use a low temp thermostat, they're shit. The standard one is 76.5, but its in the bottom which is the intake (coldest part of the system) whereas the temp sender is in the top hose, which is the hottest part. So 85 degrees is perfectly normal and having the thermostat closed on cold days isn't a problem, theres a bypass in the block that keeps water circulating through the motor without going through the radiator, when the thermostat opens this bypass gets blocked and the flow path changes to include the radiator. Sounds like it's all sorted anyway.
  18. JonnoHR31
    Make sure you've had some advanced driver training as when you hit that button the world outside the car turns into a blur and it can be hard to see where your going.
  19. JonnoHR31
    Pointless if you have a pressure monitor. If the intank does die your motors not going to instantly blow into oblivion the second fuel pressure drops 5psi. Even if you somehow managed to empty the surge tank at the same time as being on WOT at 7000rpm your pressure monitor will stop you well before you kill the motor. Edit: Also, I'm not sure what happened in Simons case but i've had my intank stop pumping several times (due to blocked filters, bad wiring etc) and every time the tank simply empties and the car misses then dies, the first sign is actually the 044 cavitating, you can hear it even with the windows up and music playing. It'd be cool to have a level monitor for it but it's just not needed.
  20. JonnoHR31
    If it was pinging the pistons wouldn't be fine. Rod failure was probably simply too many revs at that power level for the standard rod bolts. What were you doing when it died?
  21. JonnoHR31
    monitoring rail pressure is the best way, as it covers everything except injectors failing. a surge tank level monitor wont cover the main pump dying.
  22. JonnoHR31
    weird. how was the surge tank plumbed?
  23. JonnoHR31
    It wouldn't look as good with CHARGE RACING stickers all over it
  24. JonnoHR31
    This, if your lift pump dies, as soon as you use up whats in the surge tank your engine will simply cough then die. Sure, it might run lean for a split second but no where near long enough to kill it. As for the main pump drawing fuel from the tank, thats simply not possible with a conventional surge tank setup (as in a recirculating setup, with an overflow back to the main tank) as even if they managed to create enough suction they'd simply suck air from the return, not fuel through the dead pump. The only time its possible for a lift pump to kill your motor is if it flows the exact amount needed to create a lean out without going lean enough to miss and even then you'd have to be on WOT for a long time to drain the surge tank whilst its still being partially refilled.
  25. JonnoHR31
    yer power fc does it regardless of speed or gear. i dont have the speedo or neutral switch hooked up and it works fine
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