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JonnoHR31

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Everything posted by JonnoHR31

  1. JonnoHR31
    Yer they're all different. For example myne constantly reads up to ~20 just from normal engine noise cruising around and i often get false readings on limiter of over 100
  2. JonnoHR31
    3037 is simply the 3076 in the old garrett naming system. just like 3040 and 3540 are the 3082 and 3582. and no that doesnt mean you have an older turbo, they've been called 3076 for years but the tags still say 3037 (last time i looked anyway).
  3. JonnoHR31
    just the usual castrol gear oil i think, i cant remember though, its overdue for a change....
  4. JonnoHR31
    You have a 56T gt3076. The ID tag wont tell you what turbine housing you have as they come from garrett without a turbine housing, and they can swapped around anyway. The only way to tell what AR housing you have is to read it off the housing itself. Power will depend on the turbine housing but unless its a .63 IW or a non garrett housing it should be good for 300rwkw
  5. JonnoHR31
    Stock rb30 = coles motor oil changed every 50 000km's and it still wont die.... ARTZ, the HPR will be fine, i used the old HPR for years and years at double factory power and when i pulled the motor apart it was immaculate. I cant see the new HPR being anything but better again. But then again I'm a big Penrite fan so i might be a little biased.
  6. JonnoHR31
    It'd be easier to get another 30 bottom end but if your dead set on going back to a 25 then find another standard head, dont bolt the welded one straight onto a 25 block.
  7. JonnoHR31
    bright yellow 32 on tonkin earlier
  8. JonnoHR31
    +1 for 25/30, depending how much you can do yourself you can have a solid, reliable 30 bottom end for under 5k, which leaves plenty leftover to do a bit of headwork and then the other crap (turbo, oil cooler etc etc).
  9. JonnoHR31
    please do! it's not possible under normal circumstances. unless your running wmi or something similar anything more than ~200rwkw on standard injectors is either running lean or is just a happy dyno.
  10. JonnoHR31
    go see
  11. JonnoHR31
    S1's have 2 plugs aswell, they're just not next to each other, one hangs down underneath. But yer even manuals have the auto plug there, its just not used.
  12. JonnoHR31
    Havent downloaded it but should be english http://www.skyline.se/dokument/R34_All_Workshop_Manual.pdf
  13. JonnoHR31
    Easiest way would be to earth the pump straight to the body.
  14. JonnoHR31
    Actually concrete would compress easier than water. OP, find out exactly is wrong with the motor first and go from there.
  15. JonnoHR31
    no less reliable than any other modified RB. the standard 30 blocks are very tough, most problems arise from the build not being done right the first time, stuff like oil feeds and vct mods etc.
  16. JonnoHR31
    One way to check whether or not its the TPS is to turn the ignition off whilst on decel and see if it makes any difference. If everythings working as it should it shouldn't make any difference. Just make sure the motors hot first
  17. JonnoHR31
    Yep heads different, main caps are all the same torque settings, even rb30.
  18. JonnoHR31
    If by west you mean Perth then yes they do!
  19. JonnoHR31
    buy an rb30 and get it all ready to go then when the times comes, swap it out for your current motor, win!
  20. JonnoHR31
    Check the breather line from the fuel tank to the carbon canister, maybe a bit of fuels getting through when the tanks full.
  21. JonnoHR31
    Perfectly fine, not gonna hurt them at all.
  22. JonnoHR31
    RB26 but they're all the same
  23. JonnoHR31
    No JZs 2 Shit! Someones gonna say it so it might aswell be me.... Instead of replacing the crank why not swap that torqueless bottom end for a RB30? $50 bottom end and you have your good condition crank already assembled with everything you need for 300+rwkw
  24. JonnoHR31
    Just make sure both surfaces and the gasket are clean and it'll be fine
  25. JonnoHR31
    Never used one of those but i've used a couple of generic adapters aswell as the ones supplied with datalogit. Out of the 2 datalogit ones 1 was toast, the other worked perfectly and out of the 2 cheapies one works perfectly and the other works sometimes, drops in and out. That was with windows XP though. Aslong as you can get the drivers to work properly it should be fine.
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