JonnoHR31

no its not a direct bolt on

why not just use a standard pump to feed a surge tank from the standard tank then whatever main pump you want after that? doesnt have to be 2 pumps

yep cam timing can do it. pull the top cover off and check it. where in perth are you located? might be able to help you out

no

it wont be running lean. more boost sends things rather rich with the stock ecu and turbo. as PM-33 said, poor spark. i'm assuming its under full load around 4500-600rpm? if so the most likely culprit are tired coilpacks. can try taping/siliconing them or get new ones. in the meantime you can gap your plugs down a bit. have a search around here, theres countless threads on this

wrong. clockwise is retard, anticlockwise is advance

i think hes worries about some part of the fuel line or rail being smaller than the outlet of the pump and causing a restriction. have a look how small the standard steel lines on the car are, plenty of people flowing more fuel than you need through standard fuel lines. they wont be a problematic restriction and wont hurt the pump

still be crap. find yourself a NA block or change the pistons in your turbo block

yes it comes out with the motor in

looks like severe camber/toe wear. also 32psi isnt enough in low profile tyres. should be at 36-40psi

one pump instantly dying is the best, as the engine just cuts out. it may lean out for a second but usually not long enough to do much damage. the main reason two pumps are dangerous is if one dies and you still get enough flow from the first to run normally your not going to have any idea that a pump has died. which means you'll keep hitting peak power etc without knowing its running lean. for example, say you have 2 pumps that flow 200lph each (~400lph combined) and you need 250lph under full load. if 1 pump dies completely your motor will only be getting the 200lph from the other pump (assuming you have 1 way valves), leaving you 50lph short, this will result in a drop in fuel pressure and afr's going lean. you could drive it like this for ages without realising until its too late as said earlier, a wideband and gauge would remove any doubt everytime you plant your foot and is relatively cheap insurance.

can do either. a pump can instantly die and stop pumping or it can very slowly die, flowing less and less as it does which is what kills engines

gate controller? you mean actuator? no actuator? not possible if you want boost with an IW turbo

if your going to be bashing limiter a lot it'd probably be worth getting a crank collar and ask the tuner to take out lots of timing just on or above limiter.

hence why i said to keep it nice and conservative. theres always gonna be a chance of it dying from bad batches of fuel/dying fuel regs etc. but the same things can kill motors at standard power levels aswell (just not as quickly). aslong as you dont let knock go unchecked theres no reason it cant be reliable at 300rwkw, especially with the nice big exhaust side of a t04z

like i said turn the profec off and see what it does. if its too much take some preload off the actuator how do you know its set to 14psi? the profec works with duty cycles, not set boost levels

300rwkw to be safe. the tune is more important than any set boost/power tho. ask your tuner to keep it nice and conservative and use whatever boost needed to make decent power

turn the profec off and drive without it doing anything. if it makes boost the way you want it to then yer remove it. if not then use the profec to adjust it, they take a bit of getting used to but they're a good ebc

most of the time they show you the readout as it instantly elimates any doubt that you were speeding. they go through plenty of people and probably get lots arguing, so its just easier that way. at the end of the day, if you want to go out for a thrash, know where you can do it with very little chance of getting caught. dont go winding out 3rd on the freeway in the middle of the day.

regardless of changes since, whoever set it up hasnt done it properly. take it back and ask if they can set the boost again for you

does it have kpa in the bottom right corner when theres a number displayed or is it blank?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...l&hl=profec

not exactly sure what 32 cables are like but if its similar to 31 cables you'll need a new one. i broke then white pin off the end of myne and superglued it back on (works fine still) but yours looks like its broken further down. if you think you can super glue it then give it a go, pretty hard to break anything else in the process

the throttle body coolant is to stop it freezing shut in colder climates afaik. lines to oil filter are for the small factory oil cooler

no, they're ceramic. best way to check is with a magnet