JonnoHR31

andy at hyperdrive can sort it all out for you. cylinder pressure is what kills head gaskets, too much boost with too much timing etc. all comes down to the tune

definately does vary a lot. i was hitting 100% inj duty with 185rwkw. was 12:1 at WOT too

you need datalogit to change the knock level needed for the light to flash. 60 is a fairly good value tho, anything under that isnt serious enough to do damage as a one off thing, of course if its constantly up there then it might be a problem.

if its only 1 gasket between turbo and manifold then just use the ones you've got, not all that hard to change if it eventually does pop. if it was manifold to head then definately genuine

yer hyperdrive is a reputable workshop. andy has lots of experience with skylines. why do you want a single and not bolt on twins? how much power are you after?

if you havent bought the pumps already use the one you have intank as the external and buy a proper lift pump. be cheaper and work much better

most likely you will break some yes. if you do you can try remove them yourself if your feeling confident or apparently theres mobile mechanics that can do it. if you do get them out yourself make sure you dont drill too far otherwise you'll hit galleries. just nip them up tight with a normal sized spanner/ratchet. dont go crazy with rattle guns or anything like that.

and it looks like the main reason it only made 210kw is extremely poor boost control

should be around .4-.5v when closed

30e(t) or 30de(t)?

ONLY if the figures in the map are the correct amounts required for a desirable air fuel ratio. if its running at 10:1 at 100% its not leaning out is it? entirely agree it can be dangerous, but in this case i highly doubt it really needs anymore fuel

provided everythins working properly (ie fuel reg) 100% with a standard turbo would be rather rich. and lean doesnt always induce knock, i've had my car as lean as 17:1 (fuel reg died) at WOT with the same timing as 12:1 with no change in knock. as said check light will be from inj duty, turn it off in function select if it annoys you

the engine light is most likely the knock warning. by default it flashes the engine light when theres any knock over 60. do you have a hand controller? best to keep it under 5-6k if its flashing above that, until its tuned

dunno about other tyre shops but my dads tyrepower charges $5 per tyre to dispose of them as it costs a lot these days, have to use a licensed disposer n shit. if you buy new tyres the fitting, balancing and disposal of old tyres is all part of the cost of the new tyres. cant remember what he charges for changeovers but when it comes to small jobs like that, cash is your friend and the tyre shop was right, low profile tyres are a fair bit harder to change without the right machine. even with the right machine if they're upside-down rims, they're a prick to change.

5% is no where near enough to make it too lean when running higher boost. standard ecu AFR's dip into the 10s under full load most of the time, even if it was holding 11.5:1 5% correction would bring it up to 12:1. even 12.5:1 isnt gonna hurt a standard motor. same goes for timing, 5% would move it up 1 row tops, worst case scenario you'll end up in knock maps which barely have enough timing to run, let alone knock. of couse you'd atleast use premium if you were going to do it.

every cars different, you might get 9psi, you might get 11psi. at the end of the day it doesnt make much difference, try it without the solenoid plumbed in and if its not enough you can use the solenoid to give you a little more at higher rpms. if that isnt good enough buy a turbotech mbc.

they always break, just leave them if its not leaking and make sure whatever ones you can get to are tight, but dont go trying to torque the shit out of them or you'll probably break them

something to start with would be simple bending the signal around 5% under full load if you have a standard ecu with more boost. but if you cant figure that much out for yourself you really shouldnt be playing with it

all 3076s have 3037 written on the badge, its their code under the old garrett naming system before they switched to using compressor diameter for the second 2 numbers. there was a thread a while back with details of where to get bell mouth inserts iirc

just use whatever size suits your turbo inlet

yep, pays to try and stick to the standard style of a nice long pipe with a bend in it to help stop reversion over the afm

yes

dont pull it apart just to upgrade the head gasket....

tyrepower in wangara, nice and close to you and do a very good job. most of the suspension shops and dealerships in wangara use them as the guy there has been doing them for 20+ years