JonnoHR31

No worries. VH41 curve isnt the same as VG30, with that graph it'd be a much flatter line, higher airflow at low volts and lower airflow at high volts. Sounds like someones messed around with your afm tables a fair bit....

they're in the sample maps that come with fc-edit. if you dont have them then try re downloading the software. i'd upload a copy but dont have fc-edit on this computer

remove the vac line and see what your base pressure is. then if it wont go any higher than ~45psi try slowly crimping the return line after the reg with some pliers (carefully!), keeping an eye on the pressure, and see if it goes up. if it does the reg is f**ked, if it doesnt your pumps f**ked

at different revs and loads the engine has different efficiencies. its most efficient at peak torque, which is why it produces the most force per revolution. obviously this varies with every engine but even with the same engine if you keep it at a constant rpm and go from 100hp output to 200hp output with the same AFR's (by opening the throttle further) your increasing chamber pressure, squish characteristics and timing (depending on the ignition map) which will all have an effect on the efficiency of the combustion. so whilst it isnt much you'd probably use slightly more than double going from 100hp to 200hp at the same revs and AFR's. But, in the big scheme of things it doesnt really matter

dual maps for "economy" and "power" are completely pointless as the perfect tune will give you the best of both. the only reason to ever run dual maps if for different fuel types or additives (nos etc). get a decent tune (not just a full load tune like a lot of workshops do) and try to maintain a steady throttle position when cruising and you'll get good economy. HYPED6, pretty spot on, it wont be exactly twice as much fuel (due to BSFC) but its close enough.

nope vacuum is on the intake side as the crank sweeps up and away from the oil in the sump, forcing that area to draw in air to replace the what the crank has displaced, creating a vacuum on that side. it wouldnt be much but it might make a slight difference if your rings arent perfect

problem is the original pump is probably going to be more reliable than new n1 pump. as others have said the best setup without going a full aftermarket pump (jun, nitto etc) is to replace the gears with billet ones and use a collar.

yer they did. and t04es with the rb20/25 kit

when you use the compressor does the gate flap open all the way? and at what pressure does the actuator open completely?

where does the hose from the t/b go? i cant remember. the bigger hose to the right is for idle air. dont block that bov hose unless its leaking. boost source is fine, wouldnt hurt to pressure test the hose to make sure it doesnt leak though. your boost gauge will be reading off the manifold too, so if your overboosting according to that then boost leaks before the manifold arent the cause.

make sure the bolts are still in place, just slightly loose and make sure the compressor housing bolts are tight then tap the compressor housing with a hammer until it budges.

you cant grub screw the vct feed, you need to weld it and machine it back as it overlaps with a water gallery on the 30 block, grub screws have been tried before and dont work. you can use the spare oil pressure sender hole for a vct feed, you want a 1.5mm restrictor somewhere in there. no idea what you mean by head to sump?

thats not how it works.... try running no pre load (actuator only just holds gate shut with no pressure) and make sure it can swing all the way open when pressurised. then make sure you have a dedicated line directly from a boost source to the actuator and see what you get.

get a local radiator shop to do a co2 test if you suspect the head. otherwise check radiator, flush it out etc and see if it helps.

agreed with the rest, no way a collar should move that easily once fitted. if you can find a decent shop welding the crank and machining it back is the best option

theres red, yellow and blue. red and yellow are the 2 different original senders for different models and the blue is the newer universal replacement

gauge and ecu have completely seperate sensors and wiring. the smaller sensor with the slip on single wire is for the dash. the larger sensor with the 2 pin plug is for the ecu. off topic but the speedo sender is hooked up to the speedo which then has an output wire that goes to the ecu

26s have 2. 25s have 2 head feeds in the same spot and a completely seperate vct feed at the front. you can block/restrict either of the 2 main feeds afaik, it shouldnt make any difference. but if you wanna be picky i would have thought blocking the rear and using the middle would be best for even pressure.

sounds like its earthing out somewhere. check the plug and wiring. also check the 2 earth points that bolt down next to the 2 temp senders. power fc will be pulling timing and adding fuel if its reading 150, which might be the cause of your breakdown

do you have the right input selected in the drop down box on the map watch screen? it changes depending on delta settings and which input you use. do any other inputs show up on map watch (like knock for example)?

might wanna check the condition of the cas if its been running whilst spaced too far out, could have worn down the splines a fair bit. the bracket should sit hard against the head and then there should be a standard top timing cover thickness between the bracket and the cas. so if your not running the cover you just want a single small washer between the cas and bracket on each bolt

its possible if everything not in good condition or plugged in properly. for example if a certain part of my main engine loom gets wet the car misses horribly until it dries up..... as said check afm and make sure everythings dry

no need to remove the head for 500hp if it already has forged pistons. drop in cams with the right supporting mods will do it as said. if your unsure about rod bolts just dont go crazy with the revs

4.375 usually