JonnoHR31

the best way for it to drop pressure is to just let the fuel flow back to the tank as it normally would anyway. if there is such a thing factory you wont need it with aftermarket stuff

generally only need a wideband if your tuning it yourself. any decent workshop who does a lot of tuning will have and use their own wideband

standard and n1 turbos are internal or integral wastegate, which means the wastegate is integrated into the exhaust housing of the turbo, so when you upgrade the turbos the wastegate on them will already be the right size to suit the turbo. external wastegate turbos have no gate in the turbo itself and use a seperate or external (hence the name) wastegate mounted somewhere on the manifold

both, if the gate isnt merged back in properly you'll create lots of turbulence and backpressure.

1 reg is fine, tomei make a good inline reg

stock ecu gayness, just what it does with more than standard boost. some people say you have to be running 12+psi, but realistically its different in every application and it comes down to overall airflow. this is my dyno grap when i had a stock ecu, not how as it started pulling timing the boost rose which had a snowball effect and made the ecu pull even more timing

looks like the gtr one goes around the opposite side of the rear mount, have a look under your car and see how much room you have there

25 pinout

most likely coilpacks. possible cas

other way round, go the smaller turbo with a large rear housing. go a 1.06 gt3076

go see trent. 70 isnt all that bad but worth getting it checked with a proper knock sensor

vipec make a d-jetro....

i meant 32 25de head, cant use 20 heads, different size bore

just out of curiosity how did you wire it up? and how close were the readings between the lc-1 program and fc edit? i found wiring it up as per delta config but leaving the delta an1/2 unchecked gave the closest readings in my car, tis weird

first sensor died pretty quickly, although admittedly it wasnt treated all that nicely by my brother when he fitted to another car. main problem was the controller itself died after only a few months, sent it back to the seller who sent it to back to innovate, ended up getting a new one. they didnt say why it died tho. other than that its been alright, just a few little problems with wiring, the guide for wiring it to datalogit didnt work for me, had to do it differently to make it read correctly.

even better and piss easy with a 32 head

i got a innovate lc-1 kit for around 220. works alrite, had a few dramas with it tho

never used nistune so not sure exactly how it works, but usually you use data logs from driving around

just get it roughly right and drive it normally until its tuned. or if you have the nistune software and buy a wideband you could tune it yourself...

press the next button anything over 50-60 is bad

why do you want one? the gauges that wire into the standard narrowband sensors might aswell be used for drink holders, dont waste your money proper afr gauges are hooked up to a wideband sensor through a controller, these are fairly expensive, which comes back to why do you want one?

yer that means its selected. just keep a close eye on knock levels and make sure they're the same as before. and if o2 feedback is on have a look at what the injector duty is doing whilst cruising along, see how much it cycles up and down

could always buy a 32 rb25de and put all your 20 stuff on it

setting > airflow > see if vg30 is selected or not

its more to do with the engine needing much more power just to keep itself turning before putting any power to the wheels at higher rpm.