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JonnoHR31

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Everything posted by JonnoHR31

  1. not sure if the ecu changes the injector timing but even if it does it'd only do so whilst vct is active, as the switch points vary depending on load. so if you disable it through the ecu (if the power fc lets you set it low enough) then it wont be a problem
  2. vct solenoid switching on and off. normal
  3. and sell the emanage. nistune it
  4. its all controlled by the ecu. why do you ask?
  5. standard turbos wont make 200rwkw on all cars and all dynos. best option would be a nistuned z32 ecu
  6. can you get the fuel and timing maps/tables with some some actual numbers on them, like this -
  7. the biggest problem with running more boost is you have to put more correction into the safc to bring the afr's back to normal, this adds more timing too so most of the time you cant put in enough correction without the motor pinging. i maxxed the stock turbo with a full power fc tune at 250rwhp, some make 270-280, some done. just the way it is. 298 might be bending the truth a bit tho
  8. +1 for profec b II. hi/low that can be triggered by a momentary switch, only cost me a few dollars to make myne. and as duncan said, gate pressure when turned off
  9. pretty sure just jap has the nismo ones
  10. yes could definately be setup wrong. they should have it right but once again when andy at hyperdrive set myne up it didnt have anywhere near enough gain, maybe not everyone wants it to come on as hard and fast as possible...
  11. no, they leave the printouts in ulp afr to simplify it for people who are used to ulp mixtures. if you leave your wideband on ulp and tune it to 12:1 for e85 it'll be a lot richer than it would with ulp
  12. yer, thats what i love most about the profec and i cant believe all ebc's dnt have it. helps so much with bigger IW turbos
  13. put a fuel pressure gauge in there and see with the reg adjusted to the lowest setting and see what fuel pressure you get, this will be the minimum, aslong as this is less than ~30psi it'll be fine. obviously dont run the motor if your not ready for that, just let the pump prime a few times
  14. you'd be surprised. like i said i can look at your tune for you. PM me if your interested
  15. its not possible to be boosting too hard while your foots off the throttle. unless its a bad hissing noise like a leak ignore it
  16. stock turbo you cant go past the turbotech. a spike in the midrange isnt gonna hurt the turbo, all that matters if that your boost up around 6-7000rpm isnt much more than 12psi if you have a bigger turbo i'd recommend a profec b II, they seam a bit shitty at first and not so great to use but its very good at controlling boost
  17. i changed my car (sold old bought new) and upped the value at the same time with just car and they didnt charge me a cent. got the next bill and it was still the same amount as the older cheaper car. only 3rd f+t but still nice not to be charged extra
  18. depends what car we're talking about? rb20s go straight to the actuator. rb25s have a solenoid in there to switch between 5 and 7psi. rb26s have a bleed line with a restrictor in it
  19. take it back to the mechanic and tell him to get the cam timing right
  20. yer that extra 1psi will cause certain and instant death.... as wheezy said, buy a 2nd hand rb20 actuator, cheap and 10psi
  21. depends what cars its for. no you cant load the software but certain ones can be made to work
  22. does it still make boost now or not? if so then the wastegate cant be rattling. if it doesnt make boost then pull the dump off and make sure the gate opens and closes fully without any obstructions or catching. is the rattle only under full load?
  23. nistune for the 31 and can use it for the 33 aswell if you use a r32 or z32 ecu. depends how serious the track car is?
  24. yer my last hyperdrive tune had no where near enough timing below 4000rpm, was rather pathetic for such a highly regarded workshop. i'm in perth and can tune pfc's if you want to try and get more response out of your current turbo as skylinecouple said
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