JonnoHR31

no it doesnt affect peak power at all. as niran said its only on from ~1500rpm to ~4500rpm. its for midrange torque only

you use both vacuum fittings if your using an ebc. have you gone for a drive with the vac line disconnected yet? no point looking at different housings until you sort your boost issues out

as nismoid said, remove the vac line for the gate and see when you reach your target boost. takes 5 mins and will tell you if its a boost control problem or not

you cant run bigger injectors on a standard ecu. if your planning to get it chipped or nistuned then do it all at the same time. if you get something like a power fc you can change them whenever you like and change the injector settings

nismo 555s are usually around 800-1000 for a set. 26 are top feed, 25 are side feed, no can do. change them just before a tune, what ecu do you have?

2.75 will be fine, easier to install and wont cause any restrictions

have the same ebc. i'll help you out in return for some booze

30de pistons? you mean 30e?

if its leaking enough to cause any damage to the turbo and you cant notice it then you shouldnt be driving a turbo car, simple.

increase the latency until the afr's are the same amount out from before as it is on WOT

try the 14v figure

safc is the cheapest option but is pretty half arsed for a 25. nistune is the cheapest stand alone option but you need to use a r32 ecu and loose vct or swap a few wires and use a z32 ecu. power fc's are getting more and more expensive so resale will allways be good if you look at it that way. it all depends what your long term plans are? of course theres always the option of tuning yourself with any of these options if you do your research and feel up to it. can usually buy a wideband and cables/software for less than the cost of most workshop tunes.

can drive with 480cc injectors and the standard ecu, it'll run richer and will foul plugs quicker but other than that it wont do any damage. wire the z32 plug into the standard afm wires without cutting them so you have both plugs in there, makes swapping the afm a 5min job if that. car will probably run with the z32 and 480s if you have to limp it to the tuner, just keep it off boost.

hes using a hks manifold, not a stocker. it'll fit but like i said, engine mounts need some love afaik

if its setup properly your 740s should idle fine and unless your thrashing it all the time you can do better than 15L/100km. air intake temp correction takes care of environment changes and should be setup properly. 19L/100km is not "about right", thats terrible economy for street use. get it properly tuned

yes your right

use 32 everything and it'll sit exactly where the stock 20 does. always use the mounts that go with the car, not the engine

that power level is fairly normal for those mods. plugs would probably be due for a change tho, at ~$20 for a set its worth doing

i'm a big fan of profec b II for good boost control, a lot of ebc's dont seam to give you the option of when to start pulsing the solenoid which is important for stopping gate creep. heavier springs closer to your target boost is always a good idea tho

could be anything rattling in the engine bay near the knock sensors, or could just be a rooted sensor. knock readings on limiter are almost always false, if its been tuned properly it should have a touch less timing on limiter for safety, not like you need lots of power up there anyway

yes, they're on the factory cross over pipe just before the t/b

were u on limiter when it was giving you high knock readings?

engine mount usually needs a little love, not sure bout p/s lines

nissan afm's max at 5.1v

google says there rated to 500hp, so around gt30 size but not ball bearing