JonnoHR31

yer thats what i'd do, not sure what the idle do as i've only run a car solely on brake cleaner, never sprayed it in with the car running off fuel.

my point exactly

nismoid, i had 2 regs fail in a way that was barely noticeable. normal driving was fine but on boost the pressure wasnt going up enough and it was leaning out to around 15:1 under full load, car still drove fine, just made slightly less power and i only noticed because i had the wideband hooked up at the time. 3rd reg i killed died instantly and would lean to the point of complete misfire at anything more than 0psi. 3 regs died on me in less than 5000kms, gave up on taking chances with 2nd hand stuff and a tomei reg was cheaper than a genuine nissan. at the end of the day most standard regs are fine and will be fine for a long time, but they do occasionally fail, which is when aftermarket regs become handy.

try spraying some brake cleaner or start ya bastard or something around where you think it might be leaking

thats a kkk k27. sell it

like i said, go for a drive with the vac line removed. no point buying a heavier spring then having to get an ebc aswell when it doesnt solve your problem. yes it probably will, but test before you buy

since when? plenty of people have low mounted gt35s and to all the stock ecu haters, it was running 7psi ffs, would have been running just as rich as it does with a standard turbo at 12-13psi. wont lean out until you start going past the max flow of the injectors or fuel pump. OP: install your pfc, z32 afm and evc and get it tuned. see how it goes, then decide if the turbo is suitable and if you need bigger injectors

take the vac line off the gate and see when it hits the boost you want, back off as soon as it does tho. if the boost graphs looks good like that then you need a better boost controller, if its still no good then try a firmer spring. i find the profec b good for this stuff, as you can set exactly what boost it allows the gate to see any boost at all, meaning you can keep 0 pressure at the gate all the way up to 1bar if you want. with good boost control you shouldnt have any trouble running double the rated spring pressure, its far from ideal but it works. i'm holding 22psi perfectly with a 12psi actuator and a profec b

the plumback has to be between the afm and turbo otherwise it simply will not work. the bov itself should ideally be as close to the throttle body as possible, the standard position is ideal

for that sort of power you cant go past a 25. ecu: power fc, vipec etc, take your pick. head: stock head gasket and internals: stock, yes standard internals are fine for that power level. 280-300rwkw seams to be the safe limit. manifolds: standard intake mani is fine. standard exhaust manifold will flow that much power but starts to become a restriction. turbo: depends entirely on power, for ~250rwkw something like a gtrs or highflow stocker would be the go, for 280-300 a gt30 would be your best bet. exhaust: keep it low mount, top mount is entirely pointless for this level, just adds cost and raises your chances of a defect. radiator: nfi, have a search on here for 32s interwarmer: definately need a decent size fmic afm: z32 if your going power fc, dont need one at all if you choose a map based ecu. get your ecu before you buy a z32 afm fuel: stay away from walbro, spend the tiny bit extra on a bosch 044, use the standard reg. 555s are more than enough for that power level but headroom is always nice, aslong as they're good quality injectors that can be tuned properly at idle. if you get sidefeed injectors the standard rail is fine ignition: standard coilpacks are fine if they're in good condition, but most are rooted by this age. splitfires do the job nicely. china ones wont be as good quality but plenty of people using them with no issues. oil: oil catch can simply catches blown by oil before it goes through the intake system, a healthy motor will have minimal blow by so a catch can isnt really needed. clutch: personally, i'd remove your stocker and find a clutch specialist than can make it heavier for you. i'm running an organic clutch plate and 2500lb pressure plate and loving it, drives like a stocker and handles any abuse you throw at it. box: standard 25 box is fine. if you end up looking at the higher end of your power goal (300rwkw) but still want good response then look into a twin scroll setup with a gt3076. costly but would work very nicely on a 25.

2k for a clutch to handle 300rwkw? must be a bloody miracle that my $300 clutch survives

dam all those people wasting their money on 30dets for no gain whatsoever and why the hell would you wanna stroke your v8 out to 383ci, complete waste of time isnt it?

just hook it up the same way as the standard turbo

you can drive it, just dont go thrashing it

yep, i was hitting 100% on cold morning with only 185rwkw. all dynos read differently tho

nope. probs something like a hks cast low mount mani that has the flange facing down. most important thing is to make sure the oil feed is at the top and drain is at the bottom, as close to vertical as possible

nismos are easy to tune, anyone who cant make it idle nicely and be economical (provided everything else is in good shape) shouldnt be tuning cars. for the same price i'd go the 740s

keep any fittings on it tho. they come in handy

it all depends how much power your after? stock manifold becomes a restriction at around 280rwkw but is capable of more. as for the turbo, an internal gate gt3076 would be fine for around 260-280rwkw but imo if you want more than this its best to look at external gate and better manifold, starts getting expensive. yes theres people making more than this with internal gate gt30s on stock manifolds, but theres also plenty of people who fall short of that. injectors depend once again on power, 555s are enough for a gt30 in most cases, even with e85. but if i had my time again i would have gone for nismo 740s, but thats me. have to agree with paul on the walbro, had 1 die after only a few months, not sure if it was genuine or a fake tho. then went to a 044, been going strong for 4+ years in 3 different cars

10mm is enough for a gt30, not sure how much bigger a gt35 comp housing is but you shouldnt need more than 15mm. MTQ engine systems usually have them in stock

cant remember exactly but nissan wanted well over 200 for a reg. it was cheaper to get a tomei with the rail adaptop and hoses etc. only reason i wanted a new one is because i busted 3 2nd hand ones in less than 5000km's, each time i didnt know they were broken until it was under full load and leaning out to around 15:1. so i got sick of 15yo shit

if your using an ebc then bypass the stock solenoid, you dont need it.

tomei and nismo regs are cheaper than new standard ones

if they're using datalogit and your power fc version isnt supported they need to contact datalogit. if it is supported then they shouldnt have any trouble connecting, did they check all the connections and drivers?

relative stress on a motor is roughly equal to power*rpm^2. so if you double the power you double the stress, but double the rpm and you quadruple the stress. hence why revving to 8k for the sake of it is stupid. 8000 puts 1.3 times more stress on the motor than 7000 at the same power level, thats the same as going from 300rwkw to 390rwkw at the same rpm. still sound good on stock internals?