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JonnoHR31

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Everything posted by JonnoHR31

  1. what were they using to connect to it. the only way to lock a power fc is with datalogit, and that only locks certain settings from being changed via the hand controller
  2. yes you can run it off the plenum. lots of people say you cant but it works fine, boost should stay pretty close to the same, maybe slightly higher
  3. general rule is 14.7 off boost, 13:1 at 0 boost down to 11.5-12 at peak torque then 12:1 from there
  4. +1. they can repair your current turbo aswell
  5. you cant use throttle as your primary load axis on a turbo car, it wont work properly. set it up so your primary fuel map is boost and rpm, then you just need air temp correction setup properly
  6. just cut it for the track day and if you want it hooked up again afterwards just twist n tape it. car will run fine without it
  7. not sure how the stock solenoid works but a small vac line leak usually wont create too many dramas with idle, probs find the idle valve will flow a touch less to compensate and it'll be a touch leaner than normal. btw, stock boost gauges are in x100 mm/hg not psi. +7 is close to 1bar
  8. wire it up so you have the stock plug and the z32 plug on the same loom. drive to tuners with standard afm, then give him the z32 and tell him the plugs in there
  9. myne were like that for years, were fine until the left wheel bearing started getting some slop in it, spokes started knocking the caliper around right hand corners. didnt do any damage luckily. auto pro also have slip on spacers
  10. you mean unmaintained POS old cars, not just old cars in general
  11. DCEIVE? apparently he fked his diff mount. wonder what'll be next to break
  12. been wondering exactly the same thing. i know as a general rule you go a larger a/r with twin scroll but not sure if thats because of the greater efficeincy or a greater restriction
  13. you can squeeze a little more out of them yes, but its not recommended
  14. 7k. any higher with a stock turbo is pretty pointless
  15. it all depends on the condition of the stocker one. if its working fine then keep using. personally, i killed 3 standard regs in under 5000km's and gave up on them, aftermarket was cheaper than a new genuine so i bought a tomei reg. true story
  16. hate to hijack but anymore info on adding a relay? like where to wire it in and what type? getting that random click and nothing more and more often now
  17. 1 is the pcv, flows towards the manifold under vacuum and doesnt flow at all under boost (pcv valve closes) pretty sure 2 is coolant, not air 3 is vac line for fuel reg as u said, doesnt flow just pressures/vacuums. however i dont think methanol would be too good for it. pretty sure 4 and 5 are coolant
  18. hate to hijack but do you by any chance have your speed signal wire hooked up to the ecu nismoid? i've tried the wire its supposed to be and it goes up wit rpm not speed, doing 50km/h idling in my driveway....
  19. more timing will bring the boost on sooner. retarded timing will make it come on at a lower rpm but the car will be much slower.
  20. not sure bout 26 but 20/25/30 all flow differently but are interchangeable. i'd say 26 would be the same too
  21. 25-30kpa is around 4-5psi, i doubt the car would even run with that little pressure. as said 3 bar or 43psi is what it should be. if the stocker works put it back in, only reason to go aftermarket is if you break standard ones
  22. in the vac line that goes to the actuator
  23. hes saying hes maxxed the figures in the fuel map and its still too lean, hence asking about scaling the injectors further. are you using datalogit? if so and yours has a base map, try using re-calc base
  24. you adjust it to whatever boost you want by winding the bolt in for more boost or out for less
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