JonnoHR31

peak hold leaves the highest boost reached on the screen for a few seconds afterwards so you can look after you back off. usually your set gain or start boost should be around 2-3psi below your target boost, but as said wind it up until it spikes then back it off, same for gain. thats assuming you want it to come on boost as early and hard as possible

water transfers heat a little better than coolant but its not a good idea in a RB, alloy head doesnt like corrosive water. the pressure of the system raises the boiling point higher than 100 with straight water and coolant is higher again

as trent said, load point setup is under settings 3 i'd personally leave p01 and p02 the same, then set p20 to the same as p16 or 17 if your reaching 14 and 15. then use the graph function in the bottom right corner to smooth the curve out similar to the way it is with the sample scaling. make sure all of your cells are currently richer and more retarded than the ones above them, so that changing the scaling doesnt make it lean out or knock the first time you put it under load to start tuning.

try it at 1.000 on all of them and see if you get consistent afr's under load, if not then something else is causing your problems. you still have ign retard vs air temp which you should use to keep knock levels low at higher temps. in the sample rb26 file it has the temps at 100, 70 and 40 with the correction at 1.195, 1.117 and 1.000. if your temps getting up to 100 with these settings it'll be adding 20% more fuel ontop of whats already in the map. thats enough to take you from a steady 12:1 down to 9.6:1, way too rich. correct me if i'm wrong but dont most people aim for a steady afr (ie 12:1) under full load regardless of temp then use timing to stop it pinging on hot days? which would make that correction a little too much

try a coupe of bits of clothing stuffed into bits of the exhaust?

search, been covered many many times. basically, install the solenoid in the line going to the actuator as per the instructions that come with the profec, then put it wherever you want it and wire it up to acc or ign power

have you tried setting them all to 1.000? aslong as you stay on the safe side with your afr's and keep the air temp ign retard then it should be fine

TPS working properly?

if your still using the stock manifold it'll fit with just about any turbo, just gotta be creative...

your ecu loses power everytime you turn the ignition off, aslong as it gets it split second to dump everything into its permanent memory then it'll be fine

what size drain (smallest point) are you using?

its under fuel - accel enrichment

atomic kitten - whole again

might be enough with e30 but not enough with e85, would have to check with a wideband. the newer flex fuel cars that can switch between e85 and ulp use o2 feedback to detect which fuel is being used and changes the map accordingly. from memory stoich for e85 is 9.something:1 compared to 14.7:1 for ulp

missfire will usually dance between rich and lean as pockets of air then pockets of fuel pass the sensor checked your fuel pressure?

should be a circlip holding it on, pop the circlip off (dont lose it!) then slide the rod off the gate, unbolt the actuator then do the reverse for putting the rb20 one on

i spliced new wires into each wire (twist and tape goodness) and left them long enough to have the new plug in the afm and the stock plug tucked away behind the p/s resevoir. works perfectly

yer the filler cap. oil should be splashing around as said

why? you can bolt a rwd sump onto an awd block with minor mods as said. just cant go the other way

thats the problem, he cant because his power fc is locked, meaning you cant change any of these settings with the hand controller, some tuners do it to stop people who dont know what they're doing playing with it. like i said you need to find someone with datalogit who can help you out if its locked, takes 5 mins

yer usually helps. even with splitfires i have to gap myne to .6 or .7 to stop spark blowing out. try it, cant hurt

thats not a rb20 ecu. sure its not the gearbox computer for the auto?

for reference i have a man s2 ecu here and on the nissan/hitachi sticker it has 2371M 21U07 MEC - R527R 8220 and on the edge opposite the plug on a clear sticker it has MEC-R527 A1 0132

it allways happens every now and then. my last workshop tune was rushed and way too conservative. so i started doing my own tuning, its a good learning experience and you get a much better tune because your not in a rush. not to mention how much cheaper it is

exactly, boost comes from the turbo pumping air against the backpressure of the motor, hook a turbo up to a pipe leading into thin air and it'll flow shitloads of air but make no boost. so with bigger cams and manifolds etc you'll flow the same amount of air on less boost with the same turbo aswell. the reason bigger turbos generally make more power is because of less restriction on the exhaust side and less effort from the bigger compressor to flow the same air, hence less heat, which means less pressure. also why heat makes such a big difference for turbo cars, we use boost as a control of airflow, so the amount of air flowing at that same boost level varies depending on the air temp.