JonnoHR31

no worries, pm me when your ready

just keep an eye on your injector duty on cold night/mornings

go a vipec, no afm needed, no extra boost controller needed and the most mapping options i've ever seen.

anyone with datalogit can get into your pfc if its been locked. if it hasnt been locked than anyone with a hand controller can do it for you

make sure your getting fuel and spark. altho you'll have a real hard time making it drive with the stock ecu, try and find someone here in your area with datalogit so they can setup the pfc for you and make it driveable

$1000 for nistune? you could buy the chip, license, wideband and get installed and tune it yourself for far less than that. s15 sr20 injectors go straight in and flow enough for a highflow

spare wheels and tyres are really good for getting a car up off the ground, if your doing something that doesnt require removing any of the wheels you can simply jack it up via the diff/xmember and chuck a spare wheel and tyre under each wheel, 2 if you need to go really high. if the wheels need to come off you can put the wheels and tyres under the chassis rails, make sure you have the car sitting on 4 points before you get under there and dont have the front supports too far back, the motor is the heaviest part.

buy some lingerie, he'd prefer that

if you find someone with a wideband that doesnt know RB's then you need to aim for 11.5-12:1 afr under full load, 13:1 at 0 boost and 14.7 at cruise, checking knock levels aswell to make sure theres no pinging

where in perth are you? i can set it all up for you

it all depends. i maxxed myne at 185rwkw on a very restrictive setup with a safe tune, other people have pushed them to over 250rwkw. to make the most of the highflow safely you'll need some bigger ones tho.

have to hook up a wideband to get it right, but from my distant memory myne were all around 10-20% under load with a similar setup. to keep it safe just try a couple % here and there, i wouldnt go anymore than 5%

if your clutch slipped just doing that you wouldnt even be able to drive. when they first start slipping they only do it under high load, usually peak torque in 4th and 5th. get on the freeway and load it up in 5th and compare your speed to your rpm, if the rpm goes higher than it should for the speed your doing then your clutch is mcfked

you wont reach your goal with the standard ecu and a safc. best options would be nistune, vipec, power fc etc. make sure when you make up your dump pipe you do it properly first time, i'm having to redo myne atm because its too restrictive. if you want intank then a 023 is the intank equivalent of a 044. 040 doesnt flow as much safety all depends on the tune, andy at hyperdrive tunes very conservatively, safer than most at the sacrifice of a few hp, if you have a boost controller then just let him set it to whatever ends up being safe, probably around 18psi as for installing stuff, give it a go yourself, its not as hard as it looks and it saves you a hell of a lot of money. if you get stuck theres always plenty of help on here, just make sure you have another car to drive in the meantime one other thing, make sure when you do get a turbo you get the right one, especially if its a gt30, lots of mismatched ones out there. theres plenty of info on here about which ones to get and which to stay away from

yes there can, such as doing a quick job because its a busy day

hopefully after you go through the pits you'll learn low cars are gay. illegal ride height is just begging to be stickered, not to mention a PITA when it comes to speed humps and driveways

take the vac line off the actuator and see what rpm you hit your target boost. then see what sort of difference there is between that and what it normally is depending what the tune is like atm, more timing coming onto boost can make a huge difference. i've added more than 20degrees of timing coming onto boost on my car from where a "professional" tuner had it, car feels completely different

or if you were using it on a V motor with 2 rails you'd use both. so yer just block 1

exactly, myne needs 18psi to make 250, running 22psi now. but i have a shit dump pipe

join yellow to yellow and bolt the other pipes into the only spot they physically go, oil and water are different size fittings so you cant mix them up

rattle gun on spark plugs in an alloy head, you'd have to be on crack

depends on the dyno. might make it at 14-15psi on a happy dyno. might need 20+ on a lower reading dyno and if you have some restrictions

dont read too much of that info. most of it is extremely innacurate.

if you have an antisurge comp cover the gt30 wont be much quieter than a stock turbo, they make a fair bit of noise. nismo regs are cheaper than genuine standard ones and should be of even higher quality

whats the difference between bcp and the bkr7e's everyone was raving about for a while, do they sit too far down?