JonnoHR31

triple check that all the marks line up perfectly on the cams and crank. then check the exhaust cam still has the cas locator slot, if not make sure the cas is lining up with the correct splines. then get a timing light onto it. also, turning the cas clockwise is retarding the timing not advancing

yer you can hear the solenoid but i doubt you can hear the cam advancing. if i get a chance i'll test myne and see if it works.

yer all the small frame 5 bolt 3" outlets are the same. i got a flange and some pipe from a local shop fairly cheap and made up a dump with a mate, its fairly easy for anyone whos done exhaust work before. its for sale if anyone in perth wants one.

oil and water lines should bolt straight up try this website http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-101&Category_Code=GTX http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-037&Category_Code=GTX is that the housing your after?

every cars different, read up on how to use it and find the best settings for your car, no one elses will work

try ringing whoever tuned it first and ask if they still have a copy of the tune on their laptop, if so they should restore it for free (or a 6 pack of beer at most)

i doubt you'll be able to move it by hand, have you tried to move it with some leverage?

take a photo of the sensor screen on the pfc whilst its running shit if possible and post it up

hence why i said: basically what i mean is you should drain the oil and change the filter then chuck in around 4-4.5L, check the dipstick and top it up until its right. obviously if you've only put 3L in and its showing full you have the wrong dipstick or one hell of a dented sump.... no 2 engines are going to take exactly the same amount of oil to reach the right level, it depends on the angle of the car at the time, how dented your sump is, how long you wait for it to drain down from the head before measuring etc. anyone who changes the dipstick in a car without checking the length first is a dipstick

aslong as no piston other than 1/6 is at TDC it'll be fine. safest way is to turn the crank to around 60 degrees after TDC, that way all the pistons will be too far down the boar to do any valve damage

thrash it til it pops

its to suit the different plenum designs

rb30 dipstick is shorter and wont tell you anything other than its the wrong dipstick for the motor. forget how much you put in, fill it up until its on the high mark on the dipstick, aslong as doesnt take a ridiculous amount to do this dont worry about it.

just use a standard reg, aslong as its working its the best reg to use. standard base pressure is 43psi

yer some of them are fine, but theres plenty of people (myself included) with several dead innovate units, through no fault of the end user a lot of them seam to have internal circuit failures, bad solder joints etc. in open air it should rear around 20-21:1

no you dont.... you'd be on your 3rd unit by now

should be fine then. i paid $79.95 at a local store for the 5w-60. can probably be gotten cheaper elsewhere but i was in a hurry

only way to be sure then is to check it against a known working wideband

that wont be a problem. every old RB i've ever seen has chips like that out of the balancer from people using claw pullers on them, its such a small amount it doesnt matter if your not building an all our race car

can you calibrate it? noticed any change in injector duties?

if your gauge is accurate thats good, assuming thats at 1000-2000rpm?

to properly weld cast without distorting the housing you need to preheat it in an oven first and then let it cool slowly in an oven afterwards

what ecu?

ALL oils are too thick when cold, in general the lower the cold viscosity the better. personally i like penrite, been running it for years without any problems and their new 10tenths is a 100% synthetic group IV/V blend with ester