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JonnoHR31

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Everything posted by JonnoHR31

  1. what was it like with 50% and +.14? should have been close enough 57 and .2 will probably give around the same result at idle as 50 and .14 but it'll be leaner under load. latency is the dead time in milliseconds, at idle the injector pulse is usually around 1ms, so a dead time of .76 (740s) means the injector spends 76% of its time just opening and closing and only 24% spraying fuel, so latency settings here have a huge effect on the amount of fuel injected. whereas under full load 100% duty at 6000rpm opening time would be 20ms, where a dead time of .76 doesnt make much difference. as for e85, theres a couple of guys making over 300rwkw with 555s so 740s will be more than enough for a 3076
  2. latency needs to be +.14 latency will affect the afr's at idle a fair bit but doesnt make much difference at WOT
  3. you wont make an accurate 220rwkw with a stock turbo. 180-200 tops
  4. i'm running hpr5 and its still too thick most of the time....
  5. 8000rpm puts about 1.3 times the relative stress on the motor that 7000rpm does, fair bit for only 1000rpm
  6. it'll run fine and be safe. just be down on economy and power a bit. if your worried chuck it on a dyno and make sure its safe
  7. are you NOR or SOR. the distributor for 595rs NOR is in wangara
  8. at the moment if you want to keep the 25 ecu you have to get it chipped. if you want nistune you need a z32 ecu if you want to keep vct or a r32 ecu if you dont. i'd personally go nistune with a z32 ecu. no piggyback can ever give you the off boost driveability a fully programmable ecu can
  9. yer there is but each of them still sees the full pressure from your boost source (usually intake manifold), so if you ran a 8psi spring in both gates then you'd only need to make 8psi boost at the manifold to crack the gates. if you put 2 8psi springs in 1 gate then it wont crack until 16psi as the springs are doubled up. would be best to use springs slightly lower than your target boost and use a boost controller to reach the boost you want
  10. if you want a base of 16psi you need 16psi springs, regardless of how many gates you have. not sure how important it is but probably best to make sure both gates get their pressure from the exact same source, as any difference in pressure could see one gate open more than the other.
  11. o my bad. i allways thought the evo's used a t3 flange
  12. coolant cant evaporate out of a sealed system. you have a leak somewhere
  13. as disco said twin scroll needs a larger a/r than single scroll for the same targets. i'd go the .94 twin scroll
  14. pull the vac line completely out and install it again. only way to be sure its not blocked somewhere. where have u got it?
  15. its just rb25 turbos, they're noisy, very noisy
  16. it wont loose your settings, it loses power everytime you turn your key off. if its only reading 0 then its not getting a proper signal, check the vac line
  17. that link i posted says the xr6t is same as standard falcons at 295cc. cant imagine the f6's being too much bigger looks like f6 are same as standard ones aswell, but run at a higher pressure. google knows everything
  18. start her up and sit on limiter straight away, if the motor survives you have oil pressure seriously tho, once it has oil, cranking should produce enough pressure to show up on any gauge, should be enough to turn the oil light off too
  19. did a qucik google search out of curiosity and found this - http://www.injectorsonline.com/indivprod.p...=74&scid=11 just did some more searching and it seams stock ls2 injectors are 36lb/hr or 390cc. wouldnt be worth it for a skyline
  20. thats normal. plug on the side is for auto cars
  21. wideband shouldnt freeze, just trhe readings will vary as the ecu trims and adds fuel using the narrowband signal. nova is my daily car, i live in western australia
  22. you could be really sneaky and wire the reverse lights up to a hidden switch and flick it as they watch the back of the car
  23. not sure how those widebands need to be wired but for any wideband it should be a simple case of wiring it up to switched and fused power for the controller and the heater then using the analog ouput(s) for closed loop or for your datalogit. heater power doesnt have to come from the ecu if it has 2 programable outputs, use 1 as a narrowband signal for the ecu (make sure its turned off while tuning) and use the other as a 0-5v into the datalogit for tuning
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