JonnoHR31

calibrate it. 0 throttle should be .4-.5v

ideally you want to run as much preload as possible without causing creep issues. the more preload the less travel so you reduce the amount the gate opens.

take the vac line off the actuator and make sure the gate stays shut then see what rpm you hit the same boost at. dont keep going tho. thats a pretty nice boost graph already tho

nissan want some crazy price for one, crazy even by their standards. give efi automotive in balcatta a call, i got a very good quote for a new one (no idea what brand or anything but they were sure it was right). i ended up getting a second hand one from kyp tho as i needed it straight away

its really hot here today (37+) and water temp creeped up to 78C (highest it ever gets) and the oil pressure got done to about 1.5kg/cm2 at 850 idle. usually stays up around 3-4kg until it gets over 70C. thats with hpr5 (5w-40). thinking about going even thinner oil after summer, it takes way too long to get hot enough to get down to the right pressure

yer i know, hence the sarcasm. as i said earlier, make sure your getting what you want, theres a lot of businesses out there who will tell you what you want, go elsewhere if they wont listen

i know i should check with a gauge, but if the water temp stays fairly low then is it safe to assume the oil temps stay fairly low to? my oil pressure seams to stay higher which would suggest the oils not getting hot enough

if you have your limiter set slightly higher than a ne point you can interpolation to only lower your timing on limiter. on a 25 7200 is ne18, if your limiters at 7300 then you can simply take a lot of timing out of ne19 and your timing wont drop until 7201rpm. wont make much difference but it'll make sure theres no knock on limiter without sacrificing power in the last 400rpm before it.

to do that you'd have to figure out which wires are which for him to make a plug, thats the hardest bit of doing it anyway. once you've figured that out you just solder them together and away you go. theres no diagrams or pinouts for the hr31 side of the loom anywhere on the net, you have to figure it out yourself or find someone whos done it before who can be bothered checking for you

.5 comp cover aye? must be the real one....

import is different but still the same procedure. the small brown plug down near the ecu is the body plug on the hr31 side, all the wires you need to wire up are in that plug

when i was shopping around for myne i contacted atleast 10 different businesses, by phone and email. a few didnt even reply and then most that did tried to talk me out of a 3076 and into a highflow or they didnt have the exact type i was after, only cropped turbine t25 flanged versions. mtq were the only place that would actually listen to what i wanted and ordered exactly that from their wharehouse in QLD. got the turbo with a machined out wastegate port and bigger flapper, actuator, bracket and spacer for $2000. a lot of the other places were cheaper at the time none of them were the proper 3076 that everyone here wants. if you can find it cheaper then go for it, but make sure your getting what you want and not whatever the seller wants you to have

the innovate motorsports widebands are pretty good, i'm using one. altho i did manage to kill the sensor in only a few months, but i wasnt very nice to it

sorry if its been covered but why the ~200rpm difference in reaching full boost? actually different with e85 or just different ramp rate on the dyno? interesting results, wish one of the servos would hurry up and start selling some over here, keen to experiment

theres a plug down in the passenger footwell where the engine loom joins the body loom. obviously different from 31 to 32 so you need to hardwire a few wires (tacho, temp gauge etc). theres a guide on www.r31skylineclub.com

just hook it up to the intake manifold, plenty of nipples on there

aslong as the excess is wiped away then it shouldnt take long at all to burn off. smells great until it does tho

na thats about what they cost new. i got given a 2nd hand one for free from a mate because he thought it was a 1 bar, which is what i needed, but turns out its 19psi, bit too much for me at the time.

does it only apply to proper andra events or all drag racing? surely you could still take your street car down the 1/4 with e85?

both are respectable businesses but my vote would have to go to autoworx. alastair will look after you. i've dealt with and bought parts from both and will never buy from reagan (distinctive) again, parts were fine but hes a bit of a knobhead sometimes

if you can install a manual one and a stereo (or anything electrical for that matter) then you can do it yourself. the hardest part is deciding which way to run the wires and hoses

re check all your wiring. sounds like a bad connection

i have a spare small can 19psi sitting here tha'll i'll post to you for $134.99. ask mtq to price match that shit

rb20s generally flow less than rb25s. so at the same boost the rb25 is flowing more air and therefore the turbo is spinning faster. 12psi is considered fine on a 25, 14-15psi would be about the same on a 20

dont buy -11s if your gonna gap them down to .8. ngk's with no number at the end come pre gapped at .8.