JonnoHR31

and a cropped turbine wheel. very mismatched turbo

just use whatever line was going to your actuator before, put the T piece on it and run one line to your solenoid and the other to the profec, done. using the intake manifold for the pressure source is fine, everyone says you cant and it'll never control boost properly but i've never seen it not work perfectly

you cant adjust the threshold with the hand controller, you need datalogit to do that. standard setting in the pfc is anymore than 60 knock flashes the engine light use the temp adjust to take a couple degrees of timing out until you get it tuned

if your really worried about it you can take a degree or 2 of timing out around limiter (borrow someones hand controller if you dont have one). limiter is hardly a place where you need more power anyway. but as said every cars different, i get some pretty crazy knock readings on limiter, she be right

for fuel pumps, as pressure drops, flow increases. i understand your theory but emptying a 2L surge tank simply wont be an issue in this case. even if hes making 300 odd rwkw with a really rich tune it would take more than 40 seconds sitting on peak power with absolutely no flow from the lift pump to empty a 2L surge tank and thats being conservative. As per the orignal post, the real issue here is heat and that doesnt come from short bursts at WOT, fuel gets hot after circulating around and around while driving normally. using the standard wiring the 044 is going to be flowing less than its rated for, its only going to get hotter once it gets a full 14v. Also i'm not sure about other situations but for me i'm almost certain my fuel gets too hot from the pumps (proper low pressure lift pump, 2L surge and 044), not from the engine bay. Stock 31 fuel tanks are shocking for surge, especially s1 and s2. if you drive them with any sort of aggression it surges to the point of a complete fuel cut with anything under 1/2 a tank.

need z31 or custom for the rear. for the front the most common thing is s13 conversion and for 5 stud s14 hubs if you have the turbo brakes you can bolt bigger brakes on and for the 5 stud ones just redrill the discs to 4 stud.

in some cases yes, but you'd want a thicker hot viscosity, ideally cold still needs to be as thin as possible. so if you had a 0-40 in winter and wanted a thicker oil for winter a 0-50 would be ideal (dunno if you can even get 0-50). put simply, first number is cold viscosity (thinner the better) and the second number is hot viscosity. a 0w-40 oil is like a straight 0 (0w-0) oil when cold and like a straight 40 (40w-40) wen hot.

almost 100rwkw more than i made maxxing the stock injectors, must be accurate....

whats the retail on one of those?

west coast imports is just off beach road in malaga, got a fair bit of stuff hyperdrive are also in malaga and would have some stuff what are you after?

all oils are too thick when cold, even on a 45 degree day. 0-40 is still better, even in summer

yer you would disable closed loop if you spent enough time on the map to get it nice

why? they have the same hot viscosity, the 10-40 is just thicker when cold, hardly better....

its not worse. hitting 7000rpm in say 2nd or 3rd puts shitloads more load on the motor than hitting 7000 in neutral, aslong as the car is running fine (not too lean or too much timing up there, good oil etc) then what you did isnt gonna hurt it

aim for around 14.7 at real low boost (2-4psi) then go gradually towards 11.5-12 at the points where you hit full boost. the afr line from 0 boost to full boost should be fairly linear. everyone has their own opinion but this has worked well for me.

rubbish nissan bolts? probably because they're 20 years old? go to nissan and get some genuine ones, they're not even expensive

and with a power fc any knock over 30 is gay. anything over 60 is super gay when you check the timing make sure the pfc is reading 15 degrees timing at idle before adjusting the cas

latency or dead time is the amount of time the injector takes to open after being pulsed by the ecu. just changing the correction will get the afr's close enough under high load but under light load and at idle the latency has a much bigger effect, as its a set opening time. unless you have some injectors that no one has even heard of then theres no excuse for not setting them up properly before starting the car.

most turbos will make some boost in neutral, especially small stocker turbos

arent s15 injectors 480cc?

i have myne on a fair bit of an angle and it works fine. the rod itself isnt bent though like yours

they all have ceramix turbine wheels and will all die if you run too much boost for too long standard boost for rb25 is 5psi below 4500(?) and 7psi above 32 is 10psi

ignore the colours. look for the pinouts on the net, paul33's site has one i think. cant use z32 with standard ecu

hijacking it up but has any ever had any trouble copying datalogit map and log files. i've been using a vista laptop and the only way i can open the files outside datalogit is to use the datalogit open screen and create a shortcut on the desktop, cant copy them like this tho. using windows explorer the files simply arent there. have checked and they're not hidden. any gay protection setting in datalogit?

z32 afm is the same size as the standard rb25 afm, bolts straight in, its just the wiring thats needs to be modified