JonnoHR31

anyone know about kei office coilovers?

according to the nissan workshop manual the limit value is 9.2 kg/cm2 or roughly 135psi

pull the actuator rod off the wastegate and go for a drive, see what it does.

probs meshed too hard against the gear inside the box. if you look down from the top of the drive you'll see the gear is offset from the centre, insert it into the box the furthest away from the gear inside the box then slowly turn it until it meshes with the gear inside and then back a touch. i just grinded the vl cog off myne and shoved the 33 cog on with some superglue, slid it in the box and left it sitting (not bolted) and its always worked perfectly. the drive wont fall out of the gearbox unless its seriously loose

o2 is ignored at idle

yer but if the cas is the issue and the drop in power is from a lot less timing than whats in the map then knock levels will be lower throughout that range too. doesnt have to be pinging to produce knock numbers, with the stock sensors anyway

theres 1 nipple/port on the actuator. all you have to do is make sure that nipple sees boost when the motor sees boost. if you dont want to tap a fitting just buy a little T piece and T into one of the vac lines off the intake manifold, preferably not the fuel reg line.

assuming you checked base timing? were the knock readings significantly lower where the power dropped?

and before you start tuning with it make sure the reading on the datalogit is the same as the reading on the gauge (or logworks program if you dont have a gauge). i had a lot of troubles getting myne to read the same and none of the wiring methods on the net worked. gotta play around with the grounds a fair bit

have you checked the timing? cas could be moving around if its worn

if its blowing out spark it misfres under boost. hard to explain but you would know if it was doing it

different state, different laws

all cars with your setup will do that on normal fuel when you push them to the limit. theres only something wrong if its pinging with very little timing or if its making stupidly low power and if there isnt anything wrong and you get the same result either way then run with less boost and slightly more timing

aslong as you dont buy it, wind it right up, ignore the boost gauge and drive it endlessly at stupid boost levels its not gonna suddenly die on you. get a turbotech, put it in and make very small adjustments until you get 11-12psi or .7-.8bar. dont rely on the standard boost gauge either

isnt it 14.7 at full boooost?

or too much timing, the most likely cause in this case

Hate to thread hijack but better than starting a new one. Does anyone have any pics of their dump/front setup with a iw gt30? I've got a bellmouth one at the moment but it seams way too restrictive, looking for ideas for a new one. Thanks

and a graph of what happens when you run too much boost with a standard ecu, on a s1 anyway. vtec yo http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd251/J...17052008009.jpg as for not going anywhere, is it blowing out spark?

was it pinging with very little timing or were you expecting to be able to smash as much timing in as you like with no knock?

12psi is fine. aslong as base timing is set properly and everythings working as it should then it wont knock on the standard ecu, way too much fuel and not enough timing. for nistune on a 25 you need to use a r32 or z32 ecu, z32 allows you to keep vct but requires a few wires to be changed around.

why the hell would you want to do that. buy a turbotech manual boost controller, set to 12psi and forget about it. if your ever in some sort of weird scenario where you need no boost then simply disconnect the actuator rod from the wastegate flap

d bangers, put auto into neutral, get revs up, smash auto into drive and wince as you feal its pain

possible? yes. good idea? not by a long shot

200rwkw is healthy for a standard turbo 25, usually anymore than that is just from happy dynos

did you change the port on the solenoid?