JonnoHR31

i've used the one on the datalogit site and a $2 ebay adaptor with my datalogit, both work fine altho the ebay one has dropped out before when using it on my wideband controller. if your not in any hurry for the insignifigant money i'd try an ebay one before spending $50+ on a proper one

wait a while for the paperwork to go through then ring the dpi or whatever they're called now and ask if theres a defect notice for your car. make up some bullshit story like someone borrowed the car and you think it got yellowed and they pulled it off if you have to

go rb25 turbo, will make the power your after and be slightly more responsive than the vg30 on a redtop you'll need the 25 oil and water lines to go with it

what size is your wastegate port? turbine housing a/r?

read somewhere the profec doesnt start controlling boost until you press one of the buttons after it turns on. cant say i've noticed it on myne but worth a try

not sure bout gtr afm's but the z32 is like this Wire 1 - Not Connected Wire 2 - Signal Wire 3 - 12v Ground Wire 4 - Signal Ground Wire 5 - 12v Power Wire 6 - Not Connected from memory pin A is wire 6 and wire 1 is pin F to change it in the power fc go to setting > airflow > VG30

got a pic of your dump? i have a bellmouth style dump on my iw3076 and boost control is fine, altho i think its creating way too much turbulence, considering making a split dump for it.

yer mynes been on/off noisy for years, as the fuel gets hot it starts to cavitate in the pump i think. not good for the pump but myne still works...

very happy dyno get a frontmount, with a stock turbo and a manual boost controller you should see 12-13psi by 2500-2700 under load. hardly "laggy" dont need to change plenum to run a fmic

use stock 31 engine mounts. if your using the manual 25 box and the 31 was originally manual you'll need to mod the xmember to meet all 4 bolts (only lines up with 2 the way it is). if the car was originally auto it'll bolt straight up with a auto xmember. need a vlt or 33 yoke on the standard tailshaft when using the 25 box. only other big thing is the wiring, see 31 forum for that

the plates have been like that since june last year (would be before you got your license if your still on reds) so theres really no excuse to still be driving around with white background plates. you were in the wrong and got fined for it, thats life

clockwise

any good turbo/exhaust place should be able to get you a flange/spacer. but if you have no luck try mtqes, they have everything you need

need to find out if it was run in properly. from what i've read driving sedately isnt the right way to run an engine in

cant remember the latency for each but when i got my 555s i spent a while looking around for them and came to .18 correction. car ran perfectly first kick and drove on the same tune for 3-4 months with no troubles just did a quick search and found this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...smo+555+latency

latency correction needs to be .18 for 555 nismos also 66.5% is closer than 67%

tie knots in the cable until its the tight

from memory the hks 2535s can JUST push 300rwhp on a fairly standard 20 at around 18-20psi

i think hes refering more to the boost plot than the power. try a heavier actuator, i've got a 12psi with a profec b and can hold 22psi fairly well. make sure you wind in as much preload without restricting the full opening of the gate too

the base maps in datalogit retard 0 at 80C then 5 degrees at 100C. so at 90C you'd have 2.5 degrees of retard

some of the hks ones do but they cost a small fortune all the others i can think of are a highflow of some sort

the limit for the injectors varies too, probably more to do with different dyno but i maxxed the stockers with a 044 behind them at 185rwkw on whats apparently a very honest dyno

if you want to keep the dump you have with the standard turbo then your best bet is a highflow, which should also be sufficient for your 350hp goal. injectors, different people have different opinions but i'm using nismo 555s and they're great and yes power fc's have cold start functions

unless he was having a bad day i doubt it. i've had my car tuned at hyperdrive a few times and andy usually does a good job of smoothing out the map. altho looking at your dyno graph he hasnt added as much fuel around peak torque as usual i had the exact same thing when i got my car tuned last, made 360 on one run but he thought it was a bit too unsafe so knocked some timing out and back down to 330 like i said, i can do a knock log for you with datalogit and find where its pinging

torque at the wheels is different in every gear too. you'll have a lot more in 3rd than in 4th. so unless its corrected to torque at the flywheel by calculation its fairly useless. you cant run 2 afm's with the stock ecu