JonnoHR31

torque at the wheels is fairly meaningless and you need aftermarket management before you can start changing afm's, injectors etc

backstreets of balga is where the good roads are at!

where bouts in perth are you? i'm NOR and have datalogit

did they set the timing for you in the service. could have been slightly retarded when originally tuned

not sure bout the mount but you dont need a spacer plate

i already posted up the link to the tutorial in 1 of your 3 other threads, if you cant read that then no one here can help you. stop making new topics

should be pin 1 on the drivers side of the ignitor module

downgrading is always the best way is it? you can set it yourself if you can watch boost while driving (depends where your controller/gauge is) but if not get a passenger to help. as for setting the boost you want, have a read of this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...Greddy+Profec+2 basically increase the percentage til you reach the boost you want then play around with the gain and set gain to bring it on boost harder/softer. if it spikes back off the gain

its a percentage of the maximum duty of the wastegate/turbo. its different for every car, you have to set it and see what boost it makes then adjust. 8 and 12 would be fine

why not? if you havent got any nipples on your cooler piping just plumb it up to the intake manifold, works fine

has never caused me any troubles, just made sure it was all clamped nice and tight and havent touched it since couple of crappy pics, didnt take any before i put it in unfortunately http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd251/J...17012009055.jpg http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd251/J...22012009058.jpg

i made up my own intake pipe with a bit of 100mm pipe with a 45 bend in it. used a 100-80mm silicone reducer/joiner to clamp the afm onto it and bought a couple random fittings from enzed for the Bov plumback and pcv. cheap and works perfectly

you could use a 50hp fuel pump and still max the injectors, they'll max really early tho as the pressure wont be there to flow anywhere near 370cc fuel pump fmic ecu

stock turbo is too responsive anyway. get a fmic and the power fc. run 10-12 psi, get it tuned and enjoy the reliability

boost controller of any sort (bleed, manual, electronic) cannot lower the boost lower than the base pressure set by the actuator. if you want lower boost buy a rb25 actuator, if it fits

a gasket leak near the turbo can make a hissing noise. get him to replace the gasket at whatever point he removed the exhaust

would love to see a hr31 pinout aswell, spent ages looking a while ago and no could never find one

the optional thingy you have just covers up the surge slots. up to you whether you want to use it or not, will work fine either way. power will depend on the dyno and the car etc but 270-280rwkw sounds about right. for the longer studs i just got some from metric man, the thread on the manifold side of the stud is different (cant remember what it is) so make sure you pull one out and take it with you

could be something vibrating near the knock sensors when you back off, after all they are basically just microphones

it can be bad but no where near as bad as under full load. 20-30 under light load before a tune is nothing to worry about. myne was pinging its tits off on the base pfc map, just use the temporary adjustment until you get it tuned properly

thats not nistune, its a remap. from the nistune website-

ever tried a profec b? i have the same turbo using a 12psi actuator (all mtq had in stock at the time) and i've held up to 21psi perfectly. can set the boost the soldenoid starts letting boost to the actuator. 1. sell avc-r 2. buy profec 3. profit

yep the yellow/green is definately the speedo signal. dont need it but its nice to have. this should be wired up to the speed pulse from the speedo, nfi what wire that is in a s13 tho

yep, loosen the bolts a little bit and carefully rotate the housings to where you need them. not sure if you have to but wont hurt to do the bolts back up in a star pattern