bcozican

New version I assume is what Ive been told can be done ie: how the r34 box works take a 3rd gear from r34 box and what ever gear changing mechs (I cant remember now) the r34 box uses .... which is not clips and put it in the r33 box to solve the clip issue No change in strength just gets around the clip issue apparently

Although I don't know that answer 100% in relation to your type m guards I have an r32 gtst 4 door with origin side skirts (normal size) with gtr front guards and it fits fine I think most of the size difference in the gtr guards vs standard gtst ones is higher up so doesn't flare out till half way up the guard if that makes sense So id say the answer is yes they'll fit

I was going to say what happened to the old good rotors pads and fluid? Surely even at what 1500kg the brembos on it with really good stuff to combine with it will do the job every now and then on the track and definitely on the street

That's pretty good I was expecting more still with the rb engine and g/box combo I assume no cage ?

Im in Perth and the company I found luckily is here too... Panelmate.com.au Don't know what is available over your way but Im sure someone is doing the same thing over there it's pretty cheap to buy but coming in 2.4m x 1.2m sheets I dare say shipping from here make it too expensive. If you do use it PM me if you want I've picked up a few tricks to make mounting etc better

Ally composite. 10mm thick. Ally honeycombe core with 0.5mm ally sheet either side Weights 3.5kg/ m2 and is very strong

Build bits and results Few little additions recently. Trying to run the ride height I wanted to ie: lower was leading to suspension geometry issues. I bought some gkteck knuckles that had 20mm drop built in to attempt to correct that. After what I admit was a fair bit of messing around with the usual change one thing and effect 5 other things we got these in with new bearings, wheel studs etc etc. It served its purpose for both correcting steering geometry and also letting me run the ride height I wanted but correctly. The new tailshaft over the last event and a test and tune was rattling my teeth out with vibration so gave it back to Final Drive who rebalanced it and put that back in and all is good now Off to Allstar to final give the power a bit of touch up... been running 490hp and 550nm @19 psi successfully Sean gave it another tune I can run off a switch adding 4psi so now 550hp and 660nm full boost at 4100. That's a fair bit of pick up from 4psi. Everything on the car to remain 'balanced' without it being too pushed or unsafe ie: brakes is made for 500 - 550 hp - try for anymore and I really run out of turbo, injectors, clutch, brakes The car was also due for some new tyres - I had some fronts I bought cheap from over east new but 3 years old and some new ones for the rear I also picked up the Vbox for future events so will get that in soon. Last night ran at the Trackbattle night I like these night cruisey but decently professional good amount of track time and good people. After a bit of rain gave this thing a crack and got a new PB by a decent amount knocking 0.9sec off my existing PB ....lap time doing 2 x 62.1s and I think about 7 - 8 laps in the 62's

I can half comment on this I have a r32 gtst and got the V2 I actually just put a pair of these in my car 2 weeks ago and drove on them last night... all be it grip driving but I have drifted for a long time etc and know the difference in feel 1) they are fabbed up really nice, except one thing we noticed immediately was that they obviously got the bearing case machined and then welded all the other bits on etc - great quality except the heat has obviously put the bearing case out of round by the tiniest bit and had hell of a job getting new bearing case in there 2) I cant comment using your suspension arms and ride height etc but we had to do some adjustments to get everything to fit up, I have full tote odds suspension setup etc (everything) and Tein extra length tie rods etc etc ... I ran out of tie rod length so had to get rack extenders. Then running 18 x 9.5 +12 with a 255 semi tyre on it the tyre then hit the upright, we had to space that out 10mm which gave us bees d*ck clearance to the upright - need more, then came trying to make the tyre fit into the guard and wheel well in its new postion. Not uncommon when you change the ride height etc but do bare it in minid that things like this might have to be addressed 3) they have a sh*t load of lock - when I drifted I had some albeit mild 3up cut and shut knuckles from Japan, these had way more lock. You wanna run wheel small thin and really wide to take full advantage of the lock aka: what they do with wisefab 4) they have approx. 20mm drop built into the knuckle - so on a lower car like mine where the arms where just slightly starting to push the correct characteristics geometry it bought it back to spot on and everything looks and works great I am grip driving now and bought them for the 20mm drop to correct my geometry. Are they good yes, are they a hassle and cause a few probs putting them in - sort of ( I also don't believe many tings are just 100% bolt in so expected some small probs). Are they necessary for you that's a decision only you can make but Id say from my previous drifting experience (did ADGP for 3 years) no you don't absolutely need them and the above mentioned JDI ones that everyone runs will be more than suffice. My 2c

Few build updates to come but for now This was from the other night

I got a very good condition 2nd hand set of tein drift coilovers you can have for $400 plus pay postage from perth the where you are ( prob $100) Thats basically the same price as these ebay coilovers and a million times better. Let me know via pm if youre keen

Quick update: Went out last wed night. Really good night heaps of track time which was great sat a few session out because well Im old and me and the car gets worn out Long story short the two handling changes being the splitter and the diff has made the world of difference. Id say mostly the diff but all contributes as you know. I have a car that turns now !!!! so good With invention of actually turning around corners not just the rear end pushing the front through it means I have to accept that I cant just mash the throttle on exit on go so little later on the throttle now with a decent hint of oversteer if you get it in the wrong spot, my drifting skills are a bit rusty but got tested a few times trying to find the new limits. With the wing on 0 deg angle, the rear grip alignment was set at neutral and the rear dampners on hard there is much room for more rear grip to be added I spent most of the night trying to find the new balance as it really was quite different but feel like im actually driving the car now and have taken the handling problems from really big to a now manageable amount through tuning with what I have and am getting. New PB was set just on 5 event old tyres and we did a top 10 shootout at the end of the night (one lap dash) an I was within 0.8 sec of PB on cold tyres etc All in all moving forward and much happier.... for now

awesome car and solid driving ! maybe one day we can go head to head with our stock engines .....

Beat them at what ?? street, track, drags ? Not really comparing apples with apples but your GTT is more than capable or at least very close to it and it all depends on budget. I don't have no ever driven a 4wd / awd car but from reading bang for your buck they are hard to beat so hazard a guess you'll have to spend 'more' on the gtt to be the same to compensate for 1) new tech and 2) rwd vs awd There are a number of threads in the motorsport section and projects and builds section where specifically gtt's but other rwd skylines have been developed to the point where they'd match evo's and the like so take what you can from those also. You have enough power so it comes down to : Driver skills / seat time Brakes Suspension Tyres Weight Work out your budget and get the 'best' you can get of each of those as you go and it'll go a long way to where you want to be

Its probably the way the photos are taken Id say its wide but not that wide the carbon lip that comes down directly off the GTR bar is 178cm wide, outside tyre to outside tyre across the front is 182cm and the width of the splittler is 190cm - so its only 6cm a side wider that a normal GTR width and 4cm and side wider than the tyres so when you look at that its not bad at all really And I just do sprints so basically no wheel to wheel action

yeah man little aggressive.... main thing is if it works also have the other origin bar etc so can tone things down when go for just fun track days

to be honest Ive never had stock cams always had poncams straight off ... but if you look at all the results poncams on average increase your torque a bit and mid / top power a bit and move the curve to the right just a bit I say bit ... because every car engine is a little different Sorry don't know how to best do it 'legally' as Ive always had straight through pipes but Id say taking your muffler off is one of the least legal ways. By my thinking maybe just rotational Idle ... but it will just be dampened a bit compared to not running a muffler. Still get lumpy etc but nothing is actually illegal especially if you still come under the legal DB reading.

Sidepipe makes it louder and crisp but idle it idle if your going to run a muffler etc its always going to be toned down Ive run 500-550 rwhp on rb25s with poncams both with and without springs. Mose well go springs if you can

Poncams will suit what you want performance wise then get your tuner to use rotational idle for lumpy lumpy sound https://youtu.be/zAf5cOCdDX0 https://youtu.be/sSTdcBTuUOs

updates on recent happenings I wont post a pic of the new diff and tailshaft because well it looks like a diff and tailshaft but preload taken out of diff, breather tapped and line run through the floor into a mounted canister / breather. Tailshaft is a 1 piece - saved 4kg there also With that done and the car back at home came the time to sack up and get working on the splitter - can only give these things a go and its cheap enough and just some hours in the garage to get it done Basics for those DIYers at home Specs = 1900 wide, total length is 1200, rake from front to back is circa 2 - 3 deg (roughly) The splitter itself weighs 6kg ... total weight with frame nuts bolts paint everything is 10.1kg without cutting any bolts to length yet We actually took just over 1kg of tags etc etc of metal out while we where under there and saving on tailshaft so far above happens net a 5kg+ gain in weight - albeit at the front We extended some tube ally out the back of the splitter to some sleeves welded tot he chassis rail behind it for stability and ease of install, once slid in there is 6 x 12mm oem bolts to bolt up which is made from tags with oem nuts welded to the back the ally frame is welded and then bolted to the splitter using m8's and also sikaflexed down Tested it with 50kg in middle 3rd and 30kg on each other third adding weigh bit by bit. Strong no flex at total weight of 110kg with front end coming down 25mm with that weight on spring compression. Didn't go any heavier just wanted to see if it was going rip of easily or not haha all back yard read > making > hoping > trying - but that's half the fun sometimes the front lip of the carbon airdam is / will be held down using 7 x M6 bolts with nylocs painted for looks The current height is 850 front the ground , will be lower the car by 5 mm to get it down to 800 which will be enough, not optimal but don't want to compromise suspension geometry And pic just because Out in two odd weeks to try and go round and round a track fast Just basics to do now like wheel alignment and fluids change / check Sway bars are on order but wont be here in time try this..... add sways try that... see if successful in either pursuit and see if I can get some consistent track time over the next 3 months

Hey u got more driving skill and/or balls than me doing what you do in full weight uncaged car

it was a 27mm front... was a whiteline but custom made... it was the setup I used on my drift car and changed everything when went to MCA reds and therefore std sways Ive sold those bars now... pretty sure 24mm front 22mm rear is the standard whiteline / r32 setup for circuit I still have a full set of the teins sitting in a box at 7 and 4 but also have the spare MCA springs I agree with you on the roll control and turning.. that was my thoughts also ...

what you said was actually going to be my next move when I first started this car I had tiens in with 7kg front and 4 rear with massive 27mm front and 24mm sways from my drift car - albeit the same result of understeer but drove totally different so if I can get somewhere in the middle i'll take it at this point Thanks !

that's why people go big power big brakes at wanneroo to go fast huh... Ultimately aero on front should only really help through esses and up over the hill...but also from my experience will help in braking and running smaller brakes it should help Kolb I seem to have down but still definitely does push ! but from turn 1 right where yes I get constantly pushed wide no matter what I do though to up over the hill after V8 race cnr is horrible even the last turn onto the straight. Ive had Jai, Andy Stevens and Brad Cuss in the car all were disturbed at the front end but thought the rear end grip was awesome Im addressing the diff preload thing so that's good. I run -4.5 deg camber in the front with 7 deg castor and touch of toe out I had 11kg F and 5 kg rear springs in at first then through advice (when I asked them how to address the understeer issue) now have 15kg front and 6 kg rear... fronts run on full soft and rear on full hard so as the car sits now you could say they are not right as there is no real adjustment left the sways are standard under the advice ..... but yes I tend to agree with you I think a larger rear sway will be the next on the list pending how the above goes next time out ... trying hard not to make too many wholesale changes at once but as we all know its hard when you have limited time and budget for 'testing' each change ?? thoughts

The frustration is real small slow developments on the car and small slow developments in driving skill I have knocked a few tenths off my PB but still just in the 63's on long track at barbagallo an important factor looking at the positives is a lot more of my laps are closer to being near the quickest I can run so there is consistency improving a lot I am still experiencing massive understeer so the car is not close to optimal yet. The diff which is a kazz 2 way hasn't been touched other than an oil change here and there for 5 years .. so 1) to make sure its OK and 2) under advisement from other circuit guys I have given my diff to the local diff guru who has checked it and its mint condition but more importantly he is doing XYZ to it to wind it back to basically make it a 1.5 way where he said it should stop some of the push im getting mid corner and should help to some degree with some of the understeer problems I have in his experience and opinion The uni joint in my tailshaft was shot full squeaking spec and dying fast, there was also a dent in one of the two pieces. So its also getting a new tailshaft built from scratch rather than just rehashing an old one again I have been waiting on my carbon lip etc for a long time... finally it got delivered in early December. Alas the awesome courier decided to throw my delivery, which had fragile written all over it, onto my second story balcony. WTF ! When I opened it ... cracked ! arrgghhhhhh so going through the process (insurance) of getting new stuff. So frustrating In the mean time I need to try other stuff to address this understeer issue and have to balance out the big rear wing I have on the car which has to be a contributing factor. So I am using the albeit cracked carbon lip and working on the ally composite V2 splitter which is well under way and I hope will, in combination with other changes, improve the balance of the car through corners. So this is where we sit at the moment... hopefully some good results to come as Im out in mid Feb next

totally agree not be all and end all for sure... I do tuning days and all that for me right now I want to get times.... Its just what I want to do. And Id rather rather get 35+ laps timed in 4 hours on a Thurs night than at a speed event approx. 25 laps that literally takes all day bang for your buck couldn't beat it for the average punter