bcozican

If you want more steering lock im assuming drift or similar ?? even if not...take the hicas out fullstop R33 rack will fit yes If you want the most lock out a std rack for and r32 put a ca18de or even better an s14 steering rack in ... less turns lock to lock and little bit more lock, you'll need to re route lines a little but very easy R33 , S14 front lower LCA's will both fit and are approx 10mm+ longer the difference on all that is dependant on what adjustable arms, other suspension, ride height etc you have already but all things being equal longer from LCA;s will induce more camber and widen current stance

I ran an rb22 with std exhaust mani and HKS2835 with internal gate on 310 rwkw using 20psi on e42.5 for over 2 years full boost 4000rpm - all on track did over 30 events like it fantastic setup there are other that have done similar or better so flow myth debunked, ethanol fuel myth debunked std mani will do it easy all day every day

yes and all... but to be honest i smash limiter hard too same as you (and have ignition cut through vipec) and my gtx3076 been going nearly 2 seasons strong i know you've covered it but just for ref 3 guys did turbo's over here this year ... all 'oil starvation' issues no one could prove it was or not ... garrett no help at all with anyone just said 'setup fault'

0.63 or 0.82 rear bud ? might have to wind mine up again yeah you did alright at round 3 haha

check AFM in those electrical problems ? easiest way is to grab someones that you know works bang it on and see if it clears up

id set the toe to 2mm in total ie: 1mm a side start your tyres at 45psi and your coilovers half down soft on the dampners see how it feels and progressive adjust one thing at a time ie: tyre pressures or dampners running too much toe to get grip is a bit of mistake you can go backwards with too much control grip levels with tyre pressures, quality of tyre, dampner settings and spring rates as you drive more and get better/ more confident and drive harder you will end up gettting to the point when you are chasing as much grip as possible but start there get as much seat time as you can and work through it progressively

cool front is sussed pretty much what i run just a bit more castor and more toe out rear way too much camber at -3 should be as close to zero as possible to get most fwd bite as possible but also a little neg camber gives a little more grip and control while going sideways and when the car squats it goes more towards zero hence the - 0.5 a side or 1 total 400hp you will start to have to add a bit of grip in the rear by lowering tyre pressures and maybe a litte bit of toe in if not neutral and also balance it with softening your rear coilover dampners to suitable level rear camber adjustment you need rear camber arms put in otherwise there is f.a adjustment

First thing is go to a reputable wheel aligner place that does race cars that realise 0.5 of a deg actually matters and dont just throw in a 'its close' wheel alignment re: camber 4 deg is 1) might be hard to get and 2) it maybe too much as there is a balance between getting turn it / wash out on the front and as much contact patch on the front tyres as you can under drift always run max caster and 'x' amount of toe out 4mm might be a good starting point a wheel alignment is a very important thing but its not just the front it has to work with the rear to get a good overall balance... and every driver has different preferences basics to start with for referenceF Front Camber: - 3 Castor : 7 Toe out - 4mm Rear: Camber: -0.5 Toe: depends how much you have driven, tyres, tyre pressures, power, style etc but start at 0 and work in from there to get more grip other stuff will come as you drive more

Ran my rb 2.2 for 4 years of solid drifting over 60 events in various stages from 98 ron to full e85 and a heap of different turbo and power setups, below is the last dyno and finally a main bearing went a couple of weeks ago so sold it off... but will put up results. prob forget a bitta stuff Dyno was a hubber: 550hp and 600 nm at 23psi on full e85 Rb22 port and polished head race springs HKS 264 in / ex cams Adj cam gears dialled in rb25 crank rb26 rods arias forged pistons 82mm cosmetic metal head gasket extra capacity sump splitfire coils vipec v88 ecu 1000cc ID injectors full fullsetup, braided lines walbro lift pump 2 x bosche ext aeromotive filter + fuel pressure reg plasmaman plenum greddy intercooler greddy oil cooler setup PWR rad 6boost Gtx 3076 .82 rear Tial 44 ext gate rb25 box both extreme and exedy clutches used custom exhaust 3" to 3.5" twin pipes straight through restrictors in head, massive head to sump drain, breathers from covers to catch can and drain back to sump etc etc

400hp rb20 + 3071 with .82 rear + e85 + supportings = bloody good fun I had low mount i/w HKS 2835 with 0.87 rear 405hp on 21psi by 4200 (rb22) so rb20 be all that by 4500

nope dont think so i ran rb22 on e42 (50/50 mix) with hks cams with gtx3076 with 0.63 and all the bits, nistune ecu 23 psi and 430hp on a hubber and it was 4700 im pretty sure rb22 full e85 will 0.82 rear and vipec ecu , cams dialled in etc was 23psi at 5000

Head drain to sump Baffled sump Breathers in cam covers to catchcan Line from catch can to sump - if it doesnt drain back quick enough put a VDO oil scavenger pump in the line and run it off a missle switch that you turn on when your on the track/ need to Ran mine like this on my rb22 for 4 years - same same ?

You put an .82 housing on the rear for that or still .63 which is why it falls over a bit ?Good job man will turn a tyre and awesome usable rev range....

easy .. but aim for less ... some sort of rb25 combo whether standard or built a little ie: bottom end appropriate bolt ons that everyone else uses to get that power (6boost, ex gate, gtx 3076 or similar, injectors, pumps) and on e85 get 450 - 500hp tops safely, spend the money left over on suspension, tyres and seat time still need to be able to put 500 - 600 hp to the ground in a drift car... drifting is just as much about grip as turning tyres unless your running a great suspension setup and an awesome big tyre you will find anything over 450 - 500hp pretty useless I think Im running 440ish hp with just about every suspension thing you need etc etc on decent 265 18" tyres on 18 psi and dampers near full soft in rear for drift and still searching for more grip and turning those tyres like crazy as are most others around that mark and are competitive at a good level unless you are going full Pro spec and can afford great tyres... .. Its not really needed imo...

ha thanks .. i know its a little wildish but its a drift car.... all that is just vinyl and I change the scheme every year or so... just nice gloss black underneath

started as stock streeter but now obviously a track only car Few from recent ADGP in Perth one with crappy phone camera - 60mm rear overfenders to house the 18 x 10 about zero offset with 265/35's

Just to give you a quick idea of the progression I went through from stock to nearly having everything just related to getting lock with r32 steering rack ... add rack spacers and was better added s14 rack (not necessary but i needed a new rack anyway) and ground back lock stops was better again added 3UP knuckles and took lock stops off and moved tab along = not 'epic' but pretty good and prob as good as your going to get without major fabbing of stuff all of the above is combined with your usual caster, camber adj arms and r33 LCA's... i run Kazama caster rods I have had input from others that say running Ikea Formula caster rods may work better to allow more adjustment to give better geometry on bigger lock applications most people said i would get binding at this point but I havent, maybe its due to the s14 rack ?? another guy that drifts with me has all the same gear but stayed r32 and has moved rack forawrd etc etc to reduce binding get your caster and camber arms in (and / or r33 LCA's) get a good wheel alignment (i run castor just over 7 deg, 6mm total toe out and 3 deg camber on the front)

if you get a new sump get an oil return setup from the catch can to the sump.... awesome job man good to see another pushing the limits of the r32 gtst

Sold thanks

2011 rebuilt - same cartridge number on turbo was ordered and put straight in yeah dont really want to sell it but doesnt fit on my new high mount setup = only reason

Selling my HKS 2835 Pro S turbo kit I had on my rb22 in lowmount i/w setup rated at 420 hp made 405 rwhp on mine ideal turbo for rb20 / 25 looking for 350 - 420 hp Had brand new internals put in it May 2011 drivin about 6 - 7 times since then , still have receipt somewhere. Comes with: HKS 2835 Turbo HKS actuator Braided Lines HKS heat shield Elbow and FMIC piping for lowmount setup HKS Dump Pipe Can come with std rb20 / 25 manifold with CIC triple heat coated ally manifold cover in black setup is getting pulled off the car now wanting $1500 am in Perth WA, will post at buyers expense PM me or 0411173970 Thanks

At each barbagello drift practice if your are new when you sign in you let them know, you will be sent up the back of the track on the skid pan for training with Kev the trainer and other new people to drifting. Kev will teach you basic techniques and some car control usually doing some laps around a small figure 8 track, once you have the ok from the trainer that you have a clue he will send you down to the main track where you can start slowly and get used to doing skids down there

R32 gtst just like yours Have a bit 15mm gap between stopper and Plenum when normal after few track days noticed a small rub mark wearing away was from engine torque pushing engine over under load. Engine dampener on that side worked a treat no probs at all. Maybe look at that?

i had the same thing with my plazaman, cusco strut brace and separate cusco master cylinder stopper - was rubbing - put in a decent engine torque damperner, one with a little bit of give - never had a prob with hitting or rubbing since and not screwed engine mounts or anything else either