bcozican

getting the car going again and back on track has been slower than expected and wanted now its getting critical time to get it rolling so now there is a big rush = motorsport right The ABS in in and setup - g sensor shown - take a bit to tweek The new PWR rad and Plasmaman I/C installed - dyno testing and first time on the track and its proven both in power, efficiency and temp control to be a winning combo atm Kept popping silicone and been meaning to do it forever finally got around to putting proper clamps on piping no more boost leaks or splitting Got proper seat rails fabbed up this has made a massive difference to comfort and control in the car we did a complete from scratch over hall of the suspension setup all arms came out, adjusted to equal length, changes bolts, reset compression and droop etc - this has led to a higher ride height so have to get the splitter etc reset to a lower level this is being done now Along the way you might see now there is some new shiney and lighter parts on the car - more to come Given the time constraints of getting the car back on track I havent been able to get the head build to sit on top of the billet engine, really wish I couldve got it done, but alas. I'll spare you the massive back and forth dramas getting this dyno'd but It got done Finally got to the track and after more dramas got sorted from remote assistance and belted around for 2 sessions in traffic - no fast laps reallyand alot to get up to speed on very quickly so got to get as much seat time as I can asap but good to get out there That night went home and washed the car straight to spono car show night which is getting pretty big and awesome now. Car is mismatched atm - thats getting sorted very soon ........... end scene

💪 ducting looks good too what coils setup ?

this is what I'll be doing - G35 - 1050 with 1.01 v band rear with rb27 and 35 psi would think be around mid/high 800 hubs still think

Id say the hype is just the modern day promo spill you are seeing everywhere atm, 6 boost etc obviously dont need to pump themselves up these days i wouldnt think - the actual - I wanted to go V band to get away from warped mani flanges and had a heap of stuff coming form PRP and got asked if I wanted to run one of these. Accounts from a persons opinion, that I actually care about, they are said to be pretty good in terms of flow and boost management Good to know about intercooler only heard good things from a few over here that have made the change I initially was going with the 76mm then as engine things changed and future power goals accelerated changed to the thicker one Reverse rotation is just the packaging required for clearance on the artec mani - they are no different by all accounts accept for that - bit annoying tbh but hey im here now

Yeah tis big 100% fine and drop in... i dont run a clutch fan though

Literally just put one in havent run it yet. Track car though

they do actually look pretty good to be honest and being cast no cracks - no that my 6boost ever did just warped flanges I am going to try my hardest to come over for WTAC yes - its a big time effort and $ for anyone anywhere being in Perth its even a little bit more so but hopefully

got me a new thiccc boi plazmaman intercooler - been running a 500 x 300 x 76 PWR with 2.5" outlets to date its been great just never thought Id be pushing higher hp numbers around 600hp and IAT's getting up there especially in Perth where its always a million degrees. Also new engine I'll prob be pushing the hp numbers also so this should do the job still 500 x 300 but x 100 and 3" inlet / outlet - this will go on straight away Also accumulation of parts for the new engine - giving the new rb Artec manifold a go with Vband so no more warped flanges, better alternator and a coupla other little bits For new engine just need head finished and waiting on turbo as have to run a reverse rotation version Car itself now is close to being on track again - few cosmetic things being done atm , ABS is in Motec dash all setup lots and lots of little bits done from suspension settings and new suspension bolts to seating positions and all that stuff maybe 6ish week to go before on track testing again

good it was picked up I went through 3 cast blocks recently to find the right one for spare lube 😆 you sure its for that ??!

What rear housing?

wallet out and get in touch with Perth Greg 😆

😄 get on it ! you've covered it I get told I dont post enough blaa blaa. im not really a 'poster' so came up with that but it is actually very nice bit of gear - and hopefully as close to bomb proof as possible without going 9 " billet spec

Got a new diff built S15 housing to match what my current one is Nismo GT pro 1.5 centre Neat gearbox new 4.11 gear set shot peened & polished Gktech rear cover for extra oil - takes 2.1 ltrs all up Moving from my current 3.7 gearing to 4.11 to make use of more engine and revs and bigger profile tyre means I was geared to break land speed records and the gear although was nice and 'safe' to roll around at relatively low revs really wasnt right my current diff is built almost to the same specs - will be going 4.11 also and be a spare, hopefully I never have to use it though!

I have all adjustable arms etc but yeop bolted up fine I now know of 2 more r32 gtst and an R32 GTR running r33 / r34 gtst (same) front knuckles also - so should bolt up fine * all have fully adjustable arms though

r33 gtst knuckle and r34 gtst abs hub

# carbon 😆 but yes always a compromise Other might have a diff opinion but Ive tried a 295/30 on a 10" was squishy, rolling mess through cornering didnt like

I actually bought this shell off a mate who was building this as a drift car thats why they where their in the first place Now im glad they are there because im at 18 x 10.5 - zero with 295/35/18 tyres I think the tubs actually only need to be half tubs / cut diagonal from strut - as regardless of how big wheel is it wont hit where it goes to at the front of the tub and also it would provide more room in the bay

this ... best and worst bit of pushing your car further and further ! this wasmine a long while ago now + oil remote has always been on drivers side outside the engine bay

killer wheels nearly bought those myself so many times

It was the first incarnation of this thought process The tyre shouldnt reach there any tyre deflection under load should be squish which is sideways so shouldn't need ? 🤷‍♂️ Also need to add bracing to the back of it for support

Ive been living with no ABS back to back will be hard considering I am making so many changes at once but obviously feel etc blaa blaa I also saw it (we all stretch for any justification in these circumstance's) as a combo thing coupling the traction control - so that halves the cost ??? bahaha

yes to traction control the sensors are there so why not - it'll be through Haltech - I know there are better out there but cant have everything... yet. How good it'll be will be interesting and up for debate till proven in a practical situation Interesting for those playing at home, apparently outboard sensors on the hubs vs using those in std gtr etc off the diff increases the accuracy of the data dramatically as there is so much chatter that comes off the diff

Says Mr. engine and upgrades himself 😄 Eh not here to be showy, but also got nothing to hide on my build have spent lots yeop and just hope I go faster lol I just got inspired and sort alot of info through reading about cars on this forum so put it out there in case someone has a question or might want to try something Ye I prob seem like ABS fan boi been talking about it for ages finally just threw it in the f*ck it bucket and bit the bullet

Where am I at ? as usual here now prob a dump of accumulated months and months I have decided to do some upgrades both to advance the car and also create a spares package to reduce time off track should something occur... all the theories there is engines, bodywork, technology and just stuff.... So pulling the car basically all apart New engine will be built to rb28 specs the current decent built rb25 will be a spare Head starts as a hydro rb25 head but full porting, supertech solid conversion + other goodies also the usual Kelfords etc etc I use a 5 - 0 Ignite trigger kit - they upgraded me to their new 36 -2 situation Updating the rad - the Koyo has done its job and moving to a PWR crossflow Ive been running 9.5" rims with 265/35 tyres up front to date - they have done the job but really are struggling and get torn to pieces so move to big boy tyres means alot of changes - going to 295/35 is a huge diameter jump and some width New TC105X 18 x 10.5 + 12s acquired A struggle is to fit the combo into the arch etc as it hit alot of places so we added some inner clearance modding the J arm and now all fits nicely Have gone the Motec dash route for data - not that i know what Im talking about but others do so they can use the info One of the upgrades is also Bosch MS ABS for braking and outward sensors for wheel speed allowing lots of data for the likes of traction control, the diff guy to get info and blaa blaa I think thats it for now

Was it you that bought my ce28sl's?? Suit the s13 nicely 👌 😅 Or you talking bike rims 😆