bcozican

Poncams initially as it was an easy and good option and was a case of this + this + that = 'x' power as a tried and true method then I just kept carrying the over into each new engine Recently 272 Kelfords are in and have the best options / service imo

there is no guarantees at all to be honest if you cant afford to rebuild a built engine dont start the first time whether you spend the $ is up to you - the question has come up a few times and yet to make a decision so Id say prob not but its all relative to people and for what purpose reduce you power goals put a head gasket, head studs and cams in run e85 and 20 pst get 500 rwhp and it'll last for a good while if you treat it right also if youre using just on the street big difference to on the track - total different loads put on the car pushing 600 rwhp built or not always going to shorter the life of the engine by a long way - 500 different story No - no gearbox solutions / upgrades that'll worth and are cheap but a stock box will handle it if you treat it 'gentler' especially snap changing between 3rd and 4th Ive been racing Rb's for 13 years from stock rb20 to rb22 stroker, stock rb25 and built rb25 200 hp to 650 hp (most around the 500 - 550 mark) - I belt them they last... until they dont and you go again

yeah straight through 3" all the way through when I first built the car I built it all for response at your desired power level i got the smallest PWR flipped for shorter piping intercooler 2.5" inlet outlet they said would take up to 600hp and up till now 2.5" cooler piping as well still got me 650hps but obv could be better flow and now would go a bit bigger etc alot more people know way more than me as above. maybe im not the best tech example, that seems to happen with me, but it somehow just works and still gets there. @Unzipped Compositescan vouch for that ha

This is mine its 3" there is a gap at back of chassis rails that gives you more clearance

was full noise down front straight next to the pit wall so good to keep it straight !

think it was a combination of things. Camber wear not that bad at all the tyres were only 3 events old but did sit stored for 18mths and since talking to people another major factor seems to be we started the tyre pressure too low cold which 050s are notorious for chewing sidewalls quickly when this happens. + I spose new front wing also

After 12 months of a rebuild was so close in Dec - after a quick run in on the track at low boost we thought things were on the high end of temps when running but within range so went ahead with ramping up the power on the dyno - found a crack in the block 😌 this is prob the cause of all my dramas when I last ran But straight into rebuilding another bottom end adding to this build - replaced the poncams with 272 kelfords - removed VCT - went DBW - added high volume adj pump - locally made from High Speed Engineering great bit of gear Ran this back up on dyno etc etc all looked alot better this time running 15psi circa 400hp - finally back to the track for another test Car weighed in at 1210 - this car has an extensive cage so quite heavy - this was with 40 ltr fuel With my ce28sl on, new carbon panel from Unzipped coming this week and 15 ltr for a 3 lap sprint this should come down to 1185ish The test was overall a success car ran really well, alot to learn to drive it properly but will get there It threw a p/s belt in one session fixed that and out again Then ... burst a the front left tyre down the front straight - was a bit knarley.. managed to pull it up ok and no real damage so that was it for the night Overall limited laps but successful and a long way to getting back to regular track time Good to have a smile at the end of the day from driver ... and car

Well done man. Looks friggin killer Glad its made you happy again. All worth it!

Mine is a track only car doing time attack/ sprints. Im in w.a also I ran a stock box at up to 480 - 550hp for about 2 years before it went. Then ran ppg dog box 550 - 635 it was fine. Now sequential Its usually 3rd to 4th gear changes that'll kill em so smoother/ touch slower through there will help Stock cams may do it cant say tbh as ive always had poncams now kelfords but they would help for sure. Also your spending 20k on an engine etc to get the good stuff as much as it hurts add cams now and if you take few things out as per above the price is nearly covered anyway . Just a thgt I used to run ID1000s to 550hp when needed to go bigger now use the bosch moto 1650s as above and the fine

Who is your tuner / getting the engine built through Can I ask why a neo instead of a normal rb25? sounds like you have an s2 in there already. If its for the solid head great and all but not really needed alot of tough non neo rb25s going around I this going to be for a street or track car ? sounds like the street if so gotta ask yourself if 500 maybe 550hp is enough ? at 500 with a good condition stock engine with all the good bolt on bits, headgasket, headstuds and cams it should be able to last a fair long while. Not telling you how to spend your money btw Good list but you forgot cams unless i missed it - poncams will do the job - Kelford better and get matching springs Also intercooler and rad should be good The GTX3076 at 550 will be OK at 600 pushing it ( in real life). I have all that stuff and a GTX3582 Gen ll at 25/26 psi ish gets me 635 rwhp so you'll be pushing 2 bar with the 3076 to get 600hp Stock box might or might not handle that power for a while but basically its gonna go - and then you have to find a new one or get a ppg or similar for $ but also whats the points in having 600 rwhp if you arent gonna give it herbs to save the gearbox?

5th is 100% fine Ive got a decent level track skyline with 550 hp++ and when I was driving it with stock box using 5th over and over again topping out in mid 245 kmphs with no problems As said 3rd is usually one that breaks but mainly found that on drift cars ... in circuit cars its the 3rd to 4th gear change that kills it (whatever it munches in there) so as much as its nice to bang through that be a millisecond slower and smoother and itll last alot longer

no nothing literally as explained above

awesome! whats the weight

completely comes down to budget I run the same 'GTR offset' I have Rays Ce28rt race black edition 9.5kgish for a 10.5 - biggest best forged light weight blaa blaa all the rest with the $$ to boot - ....still warped two rims and i cant even remember when I hit anything to do it but prob a ripple strip in there somewhere but the point being cans till happen got Works MRO's - 11.5/8kg for a 10.5" - half the price of above - not forged etc - run fine and no problems Wedsport TC105x are great bang for buck in between the two types above $ wise - not forged but flowformed or whatever and super light at 8.5kg ish for 10.5" and where id put my money now but as per first line - comes down to budget

ADR street spec engineer approved You want?

thanks awesome man looks great alot of work there ... keep the 30 year old r chassis alive !🙂

Getting to the end of the ver. 3 upgrade to the car now Have had a run in session for checks etc all went well Martin from @Unzipped Composites been working really hard and produced some good stuff we've had planned for a while now New splitter / front wing, oil cooler ducting and rad ducting Few small bits left like DBW and full tune but will get out testing asap even just with the run in tune just to get back in the seat and get back to having some fun driving

Been along time on the updates so here goes Ran in WATA in Nov '19 - had blown headgasket issues and by the end of the day had oil coming out of gearbox and diff also - still ran a good time and had fun but was running the car at 10/ 10ths and it had copped a beating for a fair while After a bit of a rest the rebuild began - longer than I wanted and expected but coming to a finish now Was running a 4.3 diff with 2 way kazz from drifting now gone to a GTR 1.5way Cusco setup w shafts etc setup by the diff guru over here in W.A - also nice Greddy hat Coupled with new 2 piece tailshaft also new twin plate Direct Clutch spec clutch In addition to assist in modulating braking better but cbf going full peddle box went with in engine OBP brake booster replacement was balance bar etc Was using gauges in the dash that basically didnt work or I didnt look at anyway so went with Powertune dash for now its not bad for what it is and gives the nice basics for a hack like myself have updated comfort and safety with new seat and belt BIG change for me is sold off the PPG dogbox and went Samsonas sequential No pics of it but changed ECU from older Vipec v88 to new Haltech 2500 with all the gear + full rewire of engine loom Will be going DBW soon also Also - total rebuild of the engine - still forged rb25 Along the way for weight and cleaning up the old interior picked up Topstage carbon dash All the interior is put together new Sparco with quick release in there too Martin from @Unzipped Composites has been awesome and come on as a sponsor for me moving forward and is cooking up a fancy new front end and bonnet that will be soon installed and completed So after all that... the car is setup with a base tune we'll go run it on - get a few more bits put on and then hopefully it'll be go time to learn all the new things at once and try and progress from there

I know a hack driver that races a skyline with an rb25 poncams and manual that has done a few 59s around barbs He has done it with a 3076 gen 1 and 3582 gen II at around that power mark.... he would chose the 3576 gen II for balance of response and power He did it with a 4.3 diff ratio (but 4.11 or 3.9 prob better) and only had 7 gear changes the whole lap and a setup that everyone called shit ? Or you should buy his 3582 gen II and he gets a bigger one ?

Wow.. mine was 200 odd and i wasnt happy for the level I wanted for my car so on sold it Horses for courses - not great and super clean but can see the appeal for people as an easier and reasonably decent solution for those that dontwant to pay for custom or have the know how to make it work otherwise

knowing you after all our dramas you'll prob get your ahead of time !

sh*t pics but all I have now - fitted to my r32 4 door - fitted fine maybe extra bracket here or there (was a while ago)

Rotas are about 12 - 12.5kg per wheel for a 10" I have Rays CeRT's and are 9.1kg for 10.5", some other wheel weights are attached if your not racing for 10ths or 100ths of seconds it wont make any difference its also what $1200 for new rotas vs $3000 + for good light forged rims Im at a decent level of time attack and for what its worth my second best time by only 100th sec was done on 11kg rims vs 9 kg rims no other differences *note Weds are forged either but just fine

No drilling of hubs at all. Just specify what you want and they will match it up. All just bolt on im not the most accomplished in the world and took me about 45mins tops to do both Yes backing plates will have to ve gone/ bent/ modded All is good..... once you eventually get the stuff

Been on track about 4 /5 times with it - prob not even reached its potential yet - I went from R34 Brembo with Project Mu 2 piece rotors and H16 03 comp pads to yes the 365mm kit on the front and the Forza 6 brake pads provided with it and significant improved braking - not fade in 3 lap sprint what so ever thats a 1200 kg r32 gtst time attack car doing sprints running brake booster still currently going to peddle box to be able to modulate braking more and will up grade the quality of pads For direct comparison to yours a mate of mine whom I compete against has one/ if not the quickest all round R32 GTR that is still street rego full trim etc and 700hp odd and uses the same but with Project Mu club racer pads I think and more than does the job for a 3 lap sprint