bcozican

yeop after running teflon for ages a line rubbed through got hole in it, replaced it with 'compliant and awesome rubber' XYZ braided hose - had 2 lines blowouts in two events at the AN fitting on pressure side of the rack, so back to to ptfe/ teflon proper stuff and no probs

I cant comment on the other but I used Xtreme one with chromoly fly for good couple of years drifting with similar / more power and did the just just fine ! Dont know where you live but currently using NPC - they built a single plate to my required specs - decent $

as said rb25 with rb20 covers on it no one would know Anyway i had a full forged etc rb22 in my drift car for years - in terms of better than rb20 yes but marginally more came from the boost I was able to put in it and because I was drifting so always in high revs.... eventually swapped to stock rb25 - which was just way better ie: either mild rb20 or rb25 too much $ for not enough return for rb20 stroker

I didnt put it up but randomly had massive overheating and oil p*ssing everywhere at an event a few weeks back. Was a blocked radiator Flushed block, new Koyo rad in, new thermostat, hoses etc in now, also moved oil and p/s coolers up and out and added ducting around the rad and intercooler that Ive wanted to be doing for a while - was DIY so not super awesome but not bad either Also brakes are on and bedded in.... only a few 80 /90 % er laps I got in after the bed in as it was 39 deg in Perth on Sat but they are definitely better. Now to find new braking markets and push the limits

Its just pretty much a standard p/s setup ie: standard pump etc but everything is braided and yes runs through a p/s cooler. S14 steering rack and aftermarket P/S res (not needed just prettier) I dont have any good photos right now but im actually have it apart right now as Im moving the cooler up and over so will try to take photos If you look at photos above, the p/s cooler is the smaller black one on the right side in front of the radiator and have p/s res sitting up next to pod filter

What rev limit, gearbox and diff ratio? Whats 5th top speed? Ive got 214 max in 4th at 8000 rpm with a ppg rb25 box (still 1:1) 4th and 4.11 diff... have been looking into diff ratios

All blinged up for a car 'show' - Bacon and Bumpers - was a good show Now to pull it apart abit for next event - last time out found it had a blocked radiator randomly - long day for not many laps before it nearly went bang. New Koyo purchased and will flush the system and check over

R34 Gtr Brembo, Project My 2 piece 324 x 30 rotors, H16-03 pads, all braided lines, retained brake booster, BMC 57?

will see what happens as we have another track over here thats a bit tighter and prob wont even get into 5th driving that next weekend so see how the setup goes there first... has huge amount of rear grip, still on the edge but can get to it pretty quick pretty responsive for bigger power all in around 4500 dunno I just drive and hard as I can for what ive got haha * this graph compares old GTX 3076 gen I to new turbo at 22psi and also 26 psi

PM sent. Brakes seem good be nice to try... big step from my R34 Brembo's / project my rotor and pads combo but honestly they more than do the job for a sprint and havent failed me yet - if it wasnt tapped in the head and chasing tenths Id be more than happy to leave them as is. Plus Im running up to 633 hp now so pushing it a bit I do hold 4th twice past shift change (at 7K) at the end of the front straight and down to the bowl at Barbs for too long but thats so I dont lose time changing to 5th, down the back straight its just flashing up shift change just before I brake New brakes hopefully brake a bit later so tatics might have to change a bit for the holding in 4th gear ratio calcs at 7k rev say 4th tops out at 214kmph and i consistently see just over 200's when holding and have seen 211 once. 5th cals top out at 255kmph and I see low / mid 240's with high at 248kmph .. actual track data - was interesting as its pretty close cals to practical...but yes there is no room left so Diff guru over here thinks a 3.7 - but they also said I couldnt mash the loud peddle out of corners on full power and put it down... but i can

Been a while since updating here but why not.. Im into the low 59s around Barbs so improving on times and still having fun.... would be so nice if I had easier access to get to eastern states tracks or even S.A - maybe one day At last event in May the old turbo started blowing smoke thought rather than rebuild upgraded to Gtx3582 Gen II 0.82 rear, added a Turbo oil restrictor, 5 - 0 Ignition trigger kit and Audi r8 coilpack kit, also went Rb26 covers with baffling etc All yielded great results power wise and on track feel (and pretty much dyno) no loss in responsiveness and 26 covers basically stopped my oil out the catch can breathes dramas so far - good win all round Tailshaft rebalanced and Greg D redid my diff as best he could till I can get him the $ to build me a new one - going to stay with the 4.11 ratio as its just enough but am reaching the limits of the gearing reaching over 7k in 5th down back straight but I like the response and Im able to put the power down still.. A few little carbon additions side splitter aero tunnels taking me to now full width allowed 2100mm wide and also Gurney flap My little brakes have been the topic of many questions and much laughter at times (even by me how they keep performing so well) , but hey they have got me here and into the low 59 sec bracket they've and been great - but sometimes having to trail brake into corners through necessity as I try to brake later and not really be able to stop properly might end badly one day + I see hopefully some gains in times with later braking so bigger brake kit recently purchased.... not on yet will be very soon for testing Probably a bit bigger than necessary and wanted given my good results from previously smaller brake experiences (weight + heat) for sprints etc and I took some convincing but i'll not have to upgrade size again 365 x 32 disks I have Collie SESS long track sprint in a few weeks then a few more Barbs days to come id say

yes I have Ive done 500 - 550 hp on stock engines for 8 years (on the track) with standard gearboxs and also now 635h (so 700+bhp as op wants) , also have gone from std box to ppg dog box you got more chance of it lasting as a road driven car than track for sure but strain is strain Also there is no mention of fuel used - anything using normal PULP fuel going anywhere near those numbers forged or not is asking for trouble what the OP wants is what he wants... but Id say what most of us would do would be a responsive as possible 500rwhp stocker on e85 with std box and be nice to it most of the time with occasional thrashing

700 bhp = 550 - 600 rwhp dependant on driveline..........on e85 it might last a while as stock on pulp not long gearbox big jump from something that stock to something that will handle the power like PPG dogbox $11,500 AUD new might get start up warranty but thats bout it ...wouldnt expect anymore on a build

I used to come into here to find what people had tried and what was needed to run to get 'x' power so might help some looking to push rb25 and a real world example Comparison between old GTX3076 0.82 with spitfires and std CAS vs GTX3582 Gen ll 0.82 with Audi R8 coils and new CAS This is for circuit car - anything else I think the (new or old) GTX 3076 is pretty solid for 450 to high 500hp's Done on a roller : Old GTX 3076 0.82 setup on 24.5 psi - 550hp and 620nm - was awesome overall - good response - noses over at 7K New GTX3582 gen ll 0.82 on 23 psi - 570hp on 26 psi 663.5hp and 700nm - havent driven it yet but woke up with psi and wanted to keep making powas Relevant things: Rb25 built Poncams Audi R8 coils New CAS 6 Boost Bosch 1600 cc Injectiors Plasmaman plenum Koyo Rad PWR 500 x 300 intercooler 2" piping 3" straight through exh 45 Ext gate to screamer GTX3582 0.82 Gen ll PPG 5 speed dog box 4.11 diff ratio

quite a bit... this is 10.5 + 12 but using a s14 subframe so extra 5 = 8 mm wider so maybe a + 15mm wider than you want but still

Just got a heads up from someone local (perth) that has done a set of gtr ones and many for off roaders etc Seems more delve into it these days that used to I remember the times when you couldnt find anything Thanks!

Thread dig from a long long time ago but the title is relevant to me: R32 gtst rear drive shafts and CV's Is there any upgrade options that people know of other than GTR rear end or driveshaftshop.com ??

Maybe an inbetween is an Origin GT wing ? at least its well made I had what ended up being an ebay type CF wing that I was sold second hand as an Origin GT wing snap at 230kmph Previous to that had an actual Orgin GT wing and structurally superior to the ebay spec one re: aero.......... yes alot of info and rule of thumb can be found but usually takes lots and lots of rabbit hole searching as mentioned above

should be able to get a reliable 600rwhp out of an engine that size the question is..... how much money are you going to leave to spend on getting the power to the ground, going around corners and stopping the car

S13 rear subframe is the same as the r32 one while reinforcing etc etc is good if your going to do something like that before starting maybe look to upgrade to an s14 subframe with improved geometry (anti squat built in etc) and go from there. All your arms will still fit just need offset solid bushings as the holes are circa 10mm difference in spacing - you can also buy these from gktech Imo no need to upgrade axles, I have run over 500++ rwhp on any dyno for drift, circuit for over 10 years with only 1 axle being slightly bent (after 5 years, replaced and still going after another 5) no need to change diff also, just put a new centre into what you have... work out what you want to do with the car and buy appropriate centre ie: 1, 1.5 or 2 way and then nothing else has to change ie: axles (if you end up going s14 rear subframe you'll just have to change the backing plate of your current r32 gtst diff to a s14 or gtr rear cover So - do your subframe (but preferrably an s14 / r33 one) do your rear arms do your diff this will cover 95% of applications up to 500 ++ rwhp in the most effective, cost efficient, proven manner done

I had a full tote odds rb22 I put in my drift car when I thought it was too hard to go rb25 after my rb20 broke mostly ran the rb22 around mid high 400's lasted 4 years of alot of drifting It broke when I tried to put 550hp through it then went to standard rb25 using mostly the same gear. Rb22 built vs rb25 standard was like day and night not even close. Ie: Rb22 not worth it

I run a single entry on 400rwkw rb25 setup for 8 years successfully with no fuel related leaning issues. Tuner said the same if I do it again or change it to go twin entry with centre return for same reason you stated / safer. He also said he doesnt see any drop leaning issues across cylinders across mine on dyno so no need to change so.ething that isnt broken

Mines track car yes but not full hetik on the engine bay and relatively clean, you might see something there you think might suit battery moved canisters on the right near the intake for coolant overflow and p/s fluid brake lines are braided yes - one still runs across top neat wiring loom and tucking it away is key

Recently acquired a second set of track rims not as light etc as the Ce28rt's but good none the less Works MRO's 18 x 10.5 +20's in Matt black After having another session of issues / misfire and putting the car on the dyno worked out had a blocked injector. No other damage luckily. Banged a new set in and finally ready to go and hope thats it for the mechanical issues for a while ! Went to a Sprint day at Barbagallo - went well new PB by 0.9sec at 60.7 first in class and 3rd overall to a crazy radical and an F3 with a V8 in it which were both great to watch More seat time now with the aim of a 59 sec lap Video below is a 62.3, 61 flat and 60.7 chasing Simon around with his 700hp R32 GTR build thread on here we basically doing same lap times (cant seem to embed it ) https://youtu.be/kpXBp3IDJYw There is a time attack series on in W.A next year so will be competing in that, should be fun

I run a NPC sprung single they made for me to take 450 rwkw ( Im at 400 rwkw). Have it on circuit car runs and feels great no probs at all