andy65b

As I said "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" because i can't believe anyone would say that a C34 looks good inside or out. Because I think the rear of the M35 looks awesome and the interior is sooo nice. The C34 is unfortunatly really dated. It's saving grace is it's purchase price and ease of modification.

jeezzzz, she did a good job of it..... Full respray would be nice

The most common comment in the Stagea section is "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" and not a truer word has been said about the Stagea. I personally love the look of the M35 and the C34 IMO is not that pretty. But I guess you always learn to love the ones you are with the most. LOL Performance wise I think the M35 really gives the C34 a run for the money but I have not driven a C34 so I can only comment from the point of view of driving the M35. It is bigger and for me that is a plus as I use mine for work and is brilliant when going on holiday with the family. The toughest part of the M35 is that there has not been as much development work done on the VQ25DET and finding performance parts requires a bit more work and research. Mind you I have really enjoyed the challenge of solving the problems as they have come up. The best part of the M35 is balance of the chassis, given good shocks and springs and a little stiffer sway bars and the car is transformed in to a great touring wagon with handling right up there for a wagon.

perfect fit. You need to get R32 rotors to match. And grind a small piece back for clearance of the rotor. That is what I have on my M35. Cheers Andy

A common fault (was actually factory recall) was on the crank angle sensor. When it fails the motor will just turn off randomly (not fun at 60kmh) and will generally restart after stopping or if you can get the car back to N to restart. You should be getting a Check engine light. Try doing the sequence to get the diagnostic codes. This happened to my M35 and I have heard of it on the V35 also. It also affected Australian delivered Pulsars of the time as they use the same part. Hope this helps. Cheers Andy

HDI are now starting to get there kits for the M35 in stock and i was lucky to get the second production kit and the next shipment is due soon. So what is it like. The kit supplied is very comprehensive and has everything needed to do the install included in the kit. I opted to supply my own fan as replacement for the factory fan that has to be removed to create more clearance for the FMIC. The removal of the front end of the car is relatively simple being, removal of grill (4 x press clips + 4 clips along the bottom edge of the grill). Removal of the front bar is almost as simple with 2 x press clips to remove, the screws along the bottom edge of the bar connecting the under tray and a screw in each wheel well. Next thing to remove is the reo bar which is 4 bolts on either side. Removal of the standard cooler is simple but make sure you keep the bolts as you will need them to put the new one on. It is also recomended to remove the bolts holding the washer bottle in place but don't forget to bolt it back in. Removal of factory AC fan. The kit is quite straight forward to install. Install your new slimline fan first. There is a little fiddling to get this in the right spot. When you start on installing the piping start from the pipe running up to the throttle body and (drivers side) and fit it to the throttle body. Then connect this pipe to the intercooler and mount the cooler in place. The last pipe to do is the one from the turbo and is a tight fit and a bit of detergent will help here. There is a little more leeway on the passenger side with the pipes which is why I suggest doing it in this order. Then put all the other bits together. My car has some mods but are limited to; * 3" exhaust with dump pipe from the turbo * plenum spacer * K&N filter The result: The car feels much less choked now and revs very smoothly through the whole rev range. Boost is identical, 14psi bleeding back to 12psi at higher rpm. The car comes onto boost more easily and feels like it is pulling better off boost. When it is on boost there may be slightly more power than with the standard cooler but it has more power down low in the rev range with the car wanting to step sideways now when pushed hard from a standing start around a corner. This never happened in the dry with the stock cooler. The M35 is a car that seems to suffer quite badly with hot days with the motor retarding and fuel consumption increasing especially after a few hard runs. I installed my kit 2 weeks ago, just in time for the end of summer heatwave of about 35C where I live even in the evening. The car on these days just kept hauling with no flat feel to the motor and the car just kept pulling hard when I asked. The fuel economy seems to have improved with the average economy being about 0.2L/100km better on suburban driving. Overall I am very happy with the upgrade, easy to install and the improvement to the overall driving of the car has been great. I think the full benifit of this cooler would be felt more on a highflowed turbo but on the stock turbo it has made a good car even better. Cheers Andy

Hi Edi I will show you the install on my M35 on Friday. It is even easier on a V35 as the tuner is under the floor on the left in the boot and there is spare room. Cheers Andy

hard enough that no one has posed up yet how to do it and I am certainly not that keen to be lying under my car for an hour to do it. I would rather know the 4 dyno number anyway.

Hi Kumul Sorry at this stage we are only able to do series 1 V35 & M35 (2001 - early 2004). We are working on series 2 now (2004 - 2007) and this should be completed by mid this year. The next version after that will be the V36 so I hope we will see it this year. As I get definate information I will paste it in the forum. Cheers Andy

I would be interested Nick if you did this in 4wd dyno. Too hard to disconnect the front end of a M35 to consider doing it. Cheers Andy

Yes, nice shinny bits in the front. I will post up later tonight how it works but it is good.

Welcome to the Stagea world. Nice looking car, almost the same wheels as mine. Cheers Andy

We are working on a solution and it is on the agenda for the developer of the conversion software. We hope to have this available as the next solution after the V35 series 2. Cheers Andy

Snow = low boost and power split 50/50 front to rear to 40kph. Sncro = split 50/50 front to rear to 40kph. Middle = full ATTESA mode. mostly rear till slip or lateral G detected and power sent to front wheels

PM sent

Some answers for your NM35 = 4WD M35 = 2WD not sure about the oil filter part (never looked sorry) Oil capacity is 4.7L Cheers Andy

PM sent

Tested on a my car and it does not work on the M35. It works on the V35.

It is just a sign, referrers to the features of the seats.

but it does not work on the M35.....

RS73 on SAU does group buys on DBA rotors at a great price. But I would not recomend only doing rotors and pads if you are chasing more performance. Even with better pads after a few hard stops the standard brakes start to fade. The slotted rotors will assist in keeping the rotor cooler but that is is. Cheers andy

You will find out how hard it once you have them apart..... LOL

That looks good scottie. I will have to watch out for one. Cheers Andy

Scottie, Can you do a write up on this informeter you now have. Would love to see what it is and what it can show and where it needs to connect. Sounds like just what I want but want to know how easy it would be. Cheers Andy PS. the HDI intercooler is the goods. ...write up coming soon

Have a read of this link.... there are lots out there but the key thing is our lights need to be baked to separate the glass. http://www.ehow.com/way_5398426_diy-blackh...headlights.html